Is it true that the camshaft on this model runs straiight into the cylinder head without any bearings to reduce the wear ,and if so is it possible to repair and remedy with a bearing for the camshaft

The camshaft position sensor on a Peugeot 3008 can be located in different positions depending on the engine model and year of manufacture. Here are the possible locations:

1. On the engine cylinder head: In some Peugeot 3008 models, the camshaft position sensor is mounted on the engine cylinder head, near the camshaft.
2. Near the timing belt cover: In some other models, the camshaft position sensor is located near the timing belt cover. It can be either on the engine block or on the cylinder head.
3. Behind the camshaft pulley: In some Peugeot 3008 models, the camshaft position sensor is located behind the camshaft pulley.

To locate the camshaft position sensor on your specific Peugeot 3008 model, you should consult your owner's manual or a repair manual for your vehicle. Alternatively, you can seek the assistance of a professional mechanic or a Peugeot dealer.

It will make the engine run rough and shake which could make noise in the hood area. A true engine knock usually is related to a bearing that is wearing out causing a noise. An engine will knock , spark knock, if the fuel is not of the correct octane or the timing is too far advanced. If a piston collects to much carbon from running too rich then that carbon can come in contact with the cylinder head causing a knocking noise.

This manual has everything but cam torque

http://www.championbrands.com/aera-torquespecs.pdf

A ticking noise in the cylinder head area is usually associated with the camshaft/followers, which may be worn.
Here's a couple if images: The lobe of the camshaft wears - becomes 'rounded'

The cam follower - what the camshaft pushes against to open and close the valves - can become worn.. 'dished' at the top.

It is unlikely you will have to change any valves, unless of course there is wear/damage.

The reason why the tick noise disappears when you are driving is because oil is getting pumped up to the camshaft area, between the cam lobe and the follower and acting as a 'cushion'.

A vehicle that has hydraulic lifters.. they control valve clearances by using oil. Like conventional cam followers, they can wear.

Changing your oil won't cure any wear. You could try using a valve train additive to try and quieten things down.




Hydraulic lifter:

Sounds like bad cam bearings and/or the camshaft is not true. It should rotate in the head without binding up.

Repair all leaks to get true test of condition of cylinder / piston ring and check/reed valves. It is reccommended to know amount of time to fill tank when new and compare this time to present. Filling time is indication of wear. Another method to discover wear is to remove cover to pump and examine condition of cylinder wall close to top of cylinder (on oil-less models). If you see scratches on cylinder, air is leaking past piston seal. On pumps that use oil, very hot discharge air hose or pump head is indication of leaking valves or head gasket. Sears usually has good prices on replacement parts. Good holidays

Consult the Owner's Manual, or view the oil specifications on the fill cal or dipstick (usually the fill cap) located under the hood. Depending upon mileage you may not want to vary from manufacture specifications, or risk voiding your vehicle's warranty should any remain. The VW TDI's are typically high maintenance engines. I would strongly recommend staying with the manufacture's oil specifications, and do not overfill the oil in your vehicle.

Recommended by kia is 100,000 km.

Timing Belt: Service and Repair
TIMING BELT
COMPONENT
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Loosen power steering lock bolts and nuts accordingly and remove tension from Power Steering (P/S) and/or Air Conditioning (A/C) compressor
drive belt.
3. Remove P/S and/or A/C drive belt.
4. Loosen generator mounting bolts and adjusting bolt.
5. Remove generator bolts.
6. Remove water pump pulley.
7. Remove crankshaft pulley and timing belt guide plate.
8. Remove upper and lower timing belt covers.
9. Turn crankshaft so that timing mark on timing belt pulley is aligned with timing mark on engine.
10. Check that "I" mark on intake camshaft pulley is aligned with mark on cylinder head cover and "E" mark on exhaust camshaft pulley is aligned
with mark on cylinder head cover.
NOTE: Do not move camshaft or crankshaft once timing marks have been correctly positioned.
11. Loosen tensioner pulley lock bolt.
12. Protect timing belt with a rag.
13. Remove tensioner pulley.
14. Remove timing belt.
NOTE: Mark the direction of timing belt rotation (on the timing belt) for proper reinstallation.
INSPECTION
NOTE: Never forcefully twist, turn inside out or bend timing belt. Do not allow oil or grease to come in contact with timing belt.
1. Replace timing belt if it is contaminated with oil or grease.
2. Check timing belt for uneven wear, fraying, peeling, cracking and hardening. Replace timing belt as necessary.
3. Bend timing belt into a "U" shape as shown in figure. Distance "A" must be at least 1.0 inch (25 mm).
4. Inspect both idler pulley and tensioner pulley for uneven wear and smooth bearing operation.
5. Inspect camshaft pulleys and timing belt pulley for broken teeth or damage.
NOTE: Replace any component that shows damage, excessive wear, or that appears prone to a possible failure.
INSTALLATION
1. Install tensioner pulley.
NOTE: Replace tensioner spring whenever timing belt is replaced.
2. Pull tensioner pulley to its furthest point and tighten lock bolt.
3. Check that timing mark on timing belt pulley is aligned with timing mark on engine.
4. Check that "I" mark on intake camshaft pulley is aligned with mark on cylinder head cover and "E" mark on exhaust camshaft pulley is aligned
with mark on cylinder head cover.
NOTE: If existing timing belt is being reused, install belt in proper rotation direction marked prior to removal.
5. Install timing belt onto timing belt pulley first, then idler pulley, exhaust camshaft pulley, intake camshaft pulley, and tensioner pulley in that
order.
6. Check that there is no looseness in belt between idler pulley and exhaust camshaft pulley or between intake and exhaust camshaft pulleys.
7. Loosen tensioner pulley lock bolt and allow tensioner spring to apply tension to timing belt.
NOTE: Do not add additional tension.

8. Tighten tensioner pulley lock bolt to specified torque.
Tightening torque: 28 - 38 ft. lbs. (38 - 51 Nm, 3.9 - 5.2 kg-m)
9. Rotate crankshaft two full revolutions (clockwise only) and align timing mark on timing belt pulley with timing mark on engine block.
10. Check that "I" mark on intake camshaft pulley and "E" mark on exhaust camshaft pulley are aligned with marks on cylinder head cover.
11. If they are not aligned, remove timing belt and start process from tensioner installation.
12. Measure timing belt deflection by applying moderate pressure midway between camshaft pulleys. If deflection is not correct, repeat from
tensioner installation.
Deflection pressure: 22 lb. (98 N, 10 kg)
Deflection: 0.39 - 0.50 inch (11 - 13 mm)
13. Install lower and upper timing belt covers in that order.
Tightening torque: 5.8 - 8.0 ft. lbs. (7.9 - 10.7 Nm, 0.8 - 1.1 kg-m)
14. Install timing belt guide plate and crankshaft pulley.
Tightening torque: 9.0 - 12.6 ft. lbs. (12.3 - 17.2 Nm, 1.3 - 1.8 kg-m)
15. Install water pump pulley.
Tightening torque: 9.0 - 12.6 ft. lbs. (12.3 - 17.2 Nm, 1.3 - 1.8 kg-m)
16. install generator belt and adjust the tension.
17. Install P/S and/or A/C drive belt and adjust the tension.
18. Connect negative battery cable.

The major causes of engine failures can be lumped into four basic categories:

• Overheating (excessive heat)
• Lubrication (or the lack thereof)
• Detonation (spark Knock)
• Misassembly (opps!)

You can probably ignore misassembly as a factor in a high mileage engine failure. But in a newly built Engine or a low mileage failure, it should certainly be considered as a possibility. Some common mistakes to look for:

Incorrect engine bearing clearances. Galling or seizure would tell you bearing clearances were too tight, while fatigue failure would point to excessive clearances.

Incorrect torque on critical fasteners like head bolts. rod and main bearing cap bolts, etc. Head bolts should always be lightly lubricated with 30W engine coil prior to installation, and then torque in the proper sequence to the vehicle manufacturer specifications. Too much torque can crush the head gasket while too little torque or uneven torque can lead to leaks. Too much torque on rod and main bearing cap bolts may crush or deform bearings, or cause the bolts to fail.

Misalignment. If the center main bearings show much greater wear than the end bearings, the crankshaft may be bent or the main bores may be misaligned. The underlying condition must be corrected by straightening or replacing the crank and/or align boring the block. The same applies to camshafts and cam bearings (pushrod & OHC).

Failure to clean parts properly during engine assembly (not scrubbing out the cylinder bores with soap and water to remove debris and honing residue after they have been bored or honed, for example). Any junk that is left in the engine can scour bearings and wear surfaces.

Failure to lubricate parts properly during engine assembly. Camshaft lobes require a high pressure engine assembly lube that will stay put until the engine is started and oil reaches the cam. Bearings and cylinders also need to be coated with oil or assembly lube to prevent a dry start.

Hope this will help you understand why your engine failed with only 500 miles, Good luck and hope you enjoy your new Town and Country soon.