Question about 1987 Honda CBR 1000 F

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1987 Honda CBR 1000 F how do you loosen the alternator chain tensioner

How do you re-set the alternator chain tensioner? I went to replace the alternator and I can't get the new one back in because the automatic tensioner has adjusted itself out all the way because of the slack on the chain from the alternator shaft being removed. @

Posted by jpitrone on

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4 Related Answers

bgrayer

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: how do I adjust the rear tire on a 97 honda cbr 600f3

40mm slack up and down middle of chain. not tight when sitting on bike. loosen axle ajust both sides evenly, retighten axle install new split pin

Posted on Dec 04, 2008

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tombones

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: Bike is a 2005crf250x. Need timing chain slack.

Lift the chain with one finger then turn the crankshaft several full turns by hand. Inspect the full length of the chain during rotation. Any obvious damage? Does the chain revolve smoothly around your finger? If all seems okay then the problem is probably not in the lower end. Some chains are continuous and do not have a master link. Some do have a master link. If you have a master link then separate the chain by removing the link then place both ends of the chain onto the cam sprocket and reconnect the link. If you have a continuous chain I would need to see first hand what is going on. In any event, be certain the timing marks on the flywheel and overhead cam are correctly lined up during installation.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

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Geoff watson

  • 164 Answers

SOURCE: CBX cam chain adjuster does not lock

yes it is safe for you to remove the tensioner unit whilst the engine is off however Iam inclined to think from what you describethat you are due for a new timing chain

Posted on Apr 22, 2010

heimlich

David Belcher

  • 1978 Answers

SOURCE: vt500 c ticking sound. Cam chain tensioners

You have a self adjusting cam chain tensioner. It is sold as an assembly. Take out the complete unit and replace it with a new one. The springs are not bad , the device that keeps the pressure on the tensioner is slipping causing a ticking sound.

Posted on May 16, 2010

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How to change timing chain tensioner


Its a bit of work. Radiator, belts, pulleys have to come off. Alternator, ps pump, too. Remove front cover, install new chain and tensioner, and all back the way it came off. Looking at 6 hours in the driveway or 4 hours labor at the shop, maybe more.

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Alternator


Here you go. Hope this helps :)

Instructions
    • 1
      Lift the Expedition's hood manually. Remove the negative battery cable end from the negative battery terminal using the battery wrench. Make sure to put the cable end in a place where it cannot accidentally contact the battery during the repairicon1.png.
    • 2
      Examine the serpentine belt routing diagram for the location of the Expedition's automatic belt tensioner. The Expedition's belt routing diagram is on the fan shroud.


    • 3
      Move the automatic belt tensioner off the belt with the serpentine belt tool. Pull the belt off the alternator pulley by hand before releasing the pressure on the tensioner with the tool and allowing the tensioner to slowly move back into position.
    • 4
      Remove the Expedition's charging circuit harness from the back of the alternator by hand. Remove the ground strap for the alternator's ground stud using the socket set.
    • 5
      Remove the mounting bolts that hold the alternator to the alternator bracket using the socket set. Lift the alternator out of the Expedition's engine bay by hand. Set the replacement alternator into the alternator bracket manually.
    • 6
      Install the alternator mounting bolts by hand first and then tighten them with the socket set. Connect the charging circuit harness by hand. Bolt the ground strap to the ground stud with the socket set.
    • 7
      Reinstall the serpentine belt onto the alternator pulley by reversing your removal method. Bolt the negative battery cableicon1.png back onto the battery using the battery wrench. Close the Expedition's hood.

Jul 24, 2013 | 2001 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

Loose noisy timing chain


Put the motor at Top Dead Center "TDC" on the compression stroke of the number 1 cylinder. Then loosen and tighten the cam chain adjuster bolt on the back of the cylinder.
If you are dealing with an automatic cam chain tensioner that has gone bad. Unbolt it from the back of the cylinder and replace it. Or if it is internal, take off the valve cover, unbolt the tensioner from the back of the cylinder, slide it out the top of the head, slide in the new one, set the motor to TDC , and set the tension on the new tensioner.

Jan 08, 2011 | Honda XR 250 R Motorcycles

1 Answer

Timing chain replacement


Timing Chain and Gears REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1.9L Engine NOTE: The following procedure requires the use of the puller tool No. J-25031 or equivalent, and timing sprocket installation tool No. J-26587 or equivalent.
  1. Remove the timing (front) cover from the engine.
  2. Lock the shoe on the automatic adjuster in fully retracted position by depressing the adjuster lock lever. NOTE: To remove the timing chain, it may be necessary to remove the camshaft sprocket. Before removing the timing chain, be sure to align the timing marks.
  3. Remove timing chain from crankshaft sprocket.
  4. Check the timing sprockets for wear or damage. If crankshaft sprocket must be replaced, remove the sprocket and the pinion gear from crankshaft using the puller tool No. J-25031 or equivalent.
  5. Check timing chain for wear or damage; replace as necessary. Measure distance "L'' (40 links) with the chain stretched with a pull of approximately 22 lbs. (98N). Standard "L'' value is 15 in. (381mm); replace chain if "L'' is greater than 15.16 in. (385mm).
  6. Remove the automatic chain adjuster-to-engine bolt and the adjuster.
  7. To check the operation of the automatic chain adjuster, push the shoe inwards, if it becomes locked, the adjuster is working properly. The adjuster assembly must be replaced if rack teeth are found to be worn excessively.
  8. To remove the chain tensioner, remove the "E'' clip and the tensioner. Check the tensioner for wear or damage; if necessary, replace it. Fig. 1: Timing chain guide and tensioner - 1.9L engine 85383285.gif

  9. Inspect the tensioner pin for wear or damage. If replacement is necessary, remove the pin from the cylinder block using a pair of locking pliers. Lubricate the NEW pin tensioner with clean engine oil. Start the pin into block, then place the tensioner over the appropriate pin. Position the E-clip onto the pin, then (using a hammer) tap it into the block until clip just clears tensioner. Check the tensioner and adjuster for freedom of rotation on the pins.
  10. Inspect the guide for wear or damage and plugged lower oil jet. If replacement or cleaning is necessary, remove the guide bolts, the guide and the oil jet. Install a new guide and upper attaching bolt. Install the lower oil jet and bolt, so that the oil port is pointed toward crankshaft. To install: Fig. 2: Timing chain alignment and installation - 1.9L engine 85383286.gif
    Fig. 3: Inspecting the timing chain for wear 85383287.gif

  11. Install the timing sprocket and the pinion gear (groove-side toward the front cover). Align the key groove with crankshaft key, then drive it into position using installation tool No. J-26587 or equivalent.
  12. Turn the crankshaft so that key is turned toward the cylinder head-side (No. 1 and No. 4 pistons at TDC).
  13. Install the timing chain, align the timing chain mark plate with the mark on the crankshaft timing sprocket. The side of the chain with the mark plate is on the front-side and the side of chain with the most links between mark plates is on the chain guide-side. Keep the timing chain engaged with the camshaft timing sprocket until the camshaft timing sprocket is installed on the camshaft.
  14. Install the camshaft timing sprocket so that it's marked-side faces forward and it's triangular mark aligns with the chain mark plate.
  15. Install the automatic chain adjuster.
  16. Release the lock by depressing the shoe on adjuster by hand, and check to make certain the chain is properly tensioned when the lock is released.
  17. Install the timing cover assembly.
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Dec 12, 2010 | 1993 GMC Sonoma Club

1 Answer

Need location of thermostate


Removal & Installation 3.9L, 5.2L & 5.9L Engines To Remove:
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Coolant until level is below thermostat dod_trk_altbracket.gif

    • Support bracket located near rear of alternator (A/C Vehicles) dod_trk_releasebelttension.gif

    • Alternator drive belt by attaching a wrench to the pulley mounting bolt of the automatic tensioner, rotating the tensioner clockwise to release belt tension, and removing the belt:
    • Alternator mounting bolts, but do not remove any wiring at alternator
    • 4WD indicator lamp wiring harness (4WD vehicles)
    • Alternator and position aside WARNING
      When servicing constant tension hose clamps, use only tools designed for servicing this type of clamp, such as special clamp tool (number 6094). Always wear safety glasses when servicing constant tension clamps. Always replace constant tension clamps with the same numbered clamp.
    • Radiator hose clamp and upper radiator hose at thermostat housing and position wiring harness aside to gain access to thermostat dod_trk_59l_thermostat.gif

    • Thermostat housing mounting bolts, thermostat housing, gasket and thermostat
To Install:
  1. Clean intake manifold and thermostat housing mating surfaces.
  2. Install or connect the following:
    • Thermostat (spring side down) into recessed machined groove on intake manifold
    • Gasket on intake manifold and over thermostat dod_trk_thermohousingposition.gif

    • Thermostat housing to intake manifold NOTE: The word FRONT is stamped on housing and must be placed towards front of vehicle.
    • Housing-to-intake manifold bolts.
      1. Torque to: 200 inch lbs. (23 Nm)
    • Upper radiator hose to thermostat housing dod_trk_drivebeltrouting.gif

    • Alternator (A/C Vehicles)
      1. Torque to: 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
    • Support bracket
      1. Torque to: 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm)
    • Drive belt over all pulleys except idler pulley
    • Socket/wrench to pulley mounting bolt of automatic tensioner and rotate clockwise
    • Belt over idler pulley, let tensioner rotate back into place and remove wrench
    • Coolant
    • Negative battery cable
  3. Start and warm the engine and check for leaks.
4.7L Engine To Remove:
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Coolant
  3. Safely raise and support the vehicle.
  4. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Splash shield
    • Lower radiator hose clamp and lower radiator hose at thermostat housing 4.7L engine shown 3.7L similar chry_47_thermostst.gif

    • Thermostat housing mounting bolts, thermostat housing and thermostat
To Install:
  1. Clean timing chain cover and thermostat housing mating surfaces.
  2. Install or connect the following:
    • Thermostat (spring side down) into recessed machined groove on timing chain cover
    • Thermostat housing on timing chain cover
    • Housing-to-timing chain cover bolts.
      1. Torque to: 112 inch lbs. (13 Nm)
    • Lower radiator hose on thermostat housing
    • Splash shield
  3. Lower vehicle.
  4. Fill cooling system.
  5. Connect negative battery cable to battery.
  6. Start the engine and check for leaks.
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Aug 26, 2010 | 2001 Dodge Durango

1 Answer

Putting the tension wheel back on


check to see if there is a square hole in the arm that supports the tension wheel. In most cases the wheel doesnot need to be removed to replace the belt. In your case you may need to replace the wheel on the arm and then relieve the tension on the arm while replacing the belt. I hope this helps.

Feb 25, 2009 | 2000 Jaguar Vanden Plas

1 Answer

Primary drive


Most likely what has happened is that the tensioner bolt has backed out a bit, and is causing the primary chain to bump the case. I've had a few bikes that this has happened with. It won't cause any real damage, just a few scrapes on the inner primary, but you do need to get it right. I recommend that you replace the factory tesioner with a Hayden M6 automatic tensioner. This way you will never have to adjust it again, and it will always be adjusted properly. Occasionally you will have to replace the springs, about every 7 to 10 years, otherwise it takes care of itself.

Aug 28, 2008 | Harley Davidson Harley-Davidson Motorcycle...

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