Question about 1984 BMW R 100

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ON MY '84 R80 RT, THE THROTTLE TUBE WILL NOT TURN, EVEN WITH THE THROTTLE CABLE & BEVEL GEAR REMOVED. THE BIKE HAS BEEN SITTING-UP FOR 6 OR 7 MONTHS. ANY SUGESTIONS?

Posted by kentmcbride1 on

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Azrael SRL

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In that case you must dismantle it to clean it - the tube has been seized in place by rust or cooked-up grease.

Posted on Sep 22, 2010

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How to put throttle back together.

REQUIRED TOOLS: 10mm T-handle, 8mm T-handle, Phillips-head screwdriver, contact cleaner, 4mm Allen wrench, 10mm box-end wrench, cable lubing tool, cable lube, Pro Circuit Red Lube (or equivalent)

STEP 1:
Start by removing the seat and fuel tank in order to gain the access needed to remove the throttle cables at the carburetor. Next, jump up to the handlebars, pull back the throttle dust cover, and loosen the two bolts that are holding the two halves of the throttle housing together. With the end of the throttle tube now exposed, pull the cable ends (balls) out of the throttle tube. The tube and grip are now free to slide off the end of the bar. Now that everything is apart and exposed, clean the inside of the two throttle housing pieces, the throttle tube, and the ends of the throttle cables with some contact cleaner. Also, clean the handlebar of any dirt and grime that may be present.
STEP 2:
On the right side of the carburetor you'll find a single 4mm Allen bolt that secures a plastic dust cover. Remove the bolt and pop the cover off. With the cover removed, the ends of the two cables can now be accessed. Starting with the top cable, use a 10mm wrench to loosen the lock nut, and the cable end can be pulled off of the carburetor wheel. Repeat this process for the bottom cable. Next, while paying attention to the cable routing, bend back the flexible cable guides that are located on the frame near the headset, and pull the cables up and out of the bike.
STEP 3:
It's time to lube the cables. Because of the hardened metal elbows located near where the cables go into the throttle housing, I recommend lubing the carburetor end of the cables where a cable-lubing tool can be easily fastened. Note: It's important to only use a minimal amount of cable lube. Because these are throttle cables, excess lube will eventually run its way down and into the carburetor. It won't necessarily damage anything, but it will make a mess. Be sure to lube both cables. Holding the cables together, feed them back into the bike from the same spot you pulled them out near the handlebars. Rout them back in so they are tucked up tight against the right side of the frame to keep them out of the way of the fuel tank once it's installed.
STEP 4:
Before putting the throttle assembly back together, we recommend using Pro Circuit Red Lube or an equivalent on all of the moving throttle parts (the inside of the housing pieces and their edges, the balls of the cables and their slots in the throttle tube, etc.). Also, on the inside of the throttle tube put a small amount of cable lube so that it doesn't go on dry against the bar. Because you can put the cables on backwards at the carburetor, start your reassembbly at the handlebar. With the throttle tube on the bar so that the cable ball slots are facing down, slide the cable ends back into the tube, and rout the cables back through the tube tracks. The cables can only go back onto the throttle tube one way. Once in place, line up the two halves of the throttle housings, and get the two Phillips bolts started without tightening them completely. To prevent binding and rubbing, push the tube and housing assembly together until it bottoms out against the end of the bar. Now, back the assembly off the end of the bar 1 to 2mm so that there is proper clearance to twist freely. Now tighten the housing bolts securely.
STEP 5:
Before heading back down to the carburetor, push the throttle tube all the way forward until it stops. This will not only show you which cable to install first at the carb, but will also give you the proper slack needed to do it. At the carburetor, one cable will now be sticking out of the cable housing farther than the other. The longer one (the one with the most slack) is the one you'll start with. It is the bottom or "pull cable. There is a 10mm nut that is thinner (not the locking nut), which slides into the groove on the carb. With the ball of the cable reinstalled on the throttle wheel, and the flat 10mm nut in its housing, tighten the 10mm locking nut to secure the cable. Next, turn the throttle tube back a little bit to take out the excess slack, which in turn will give you the slack needed to install the top or "push cable, and repeat the same process. I like to keep the gap between the 10mm locking nut and the longer 10mm adjusting nuts that are connected to the cable even between the two cables. Because most of the cable adjustment is done at the bar, you don't need a lot of gap (2-3mm) between the locking nut and the adjusting nut of each cable. Once adjusted evenly, reinstall the dust cover and tighten the 4mm Allen bolt.
STEP 6:
If you don't have a personal preference for the amount of throttle play (movement front to back), I recommend about 2-3mm of wiggle, at most. To adjust the play, there's a finger locking nut and an adjusting nut just behind where the cables enter the throttle housing. If you want more slack (play) in your throttle, spin the adjusting nut in toward the throttle. For less slack, back it out. Because it's a push/pull style system, you have to adjust both cables evenly until you get the feel you're looking for. After you've achieved your ideal amount of play, reinstall the fuel tank and the seat. Now that everything is back together, turn your bars from side to side to make sure that the cables aren't binding anywhere, and then recheck the throttle play and adjust again if needed.
Mar 17, 2016 • Garden
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1answer

My throttle won't turn,bike has been sitting a

check to see if its the carb you should be able to twist it where the cable attaches if so you need to spray with a lubricant if its the cable you might need to disconnect it and put lube down the cable hope this helps
Feb 09, 2013 • Motorcycles
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I have a 84 V65 Magna. When I get on the throttle in 1st & 2nd gear, it clunks (like it's skipping). It only happens only in 1st & 2nd gear. What's the problem?

I use to have the same exact bike. Mine did the same thing. My problem was in the transmission. In mime it was the teeth of my first and second gear were damaged. The bike was too old to invest the money to fix it.The person who owned it before me had miss shifted alot.I did it once and that put the icing on the cake.
1helpful
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My bike starts no problem drives great but when i stop the bike and turn it of it wont start ihave to jump it in gear and of she goesits a 00 125 intruder lc its been sitting up for 4years veeery clean...

Sounds like the cut out switch on the kick stand. The bike shouldn't start if you have the kick stand down. Check the kick stand is fully retracted and that the switch is disengaging OK. Maybe the stand is slightly loose & its making contact even when retracted. Otherwise check the kill switch. Both parts are available cheaply on ebay & easy to replace.
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1answer

I have a 1999 bmw r 1100 rt motorcycle and Im trying to change front light to HID kit but I cant find the 3 prong plug in the dash board. How do i get to the plug?

remember that when you put hid. you have to buy the whole package thats why they made it like that. so only the hid bulb wont work with out the right amp. when you have both hid bulb and the amp. you will connect the amp to your battery n one of the cables to your head light positive wire. this will allow you to still use your switch from your handle to now turn on n off the hid. also you will have to buy a hid bulb made for your bike, do not buy any hid on the street even if they say that is universal n all that **** bcuz its not. buy the one for your bike model so it fits perfect and it locks by it self, like if it was a factory bulb. So you connect the bulb to your hid amp plug and one cable from the amp to the positive wire that comes from the bike to the factory bulb and the other one to your battery.
1helpful
2answers

DRZ250 2007. throttle sticks momentarily as you you throttle on. Cables lubed and move freely. Throttle tube action free and easy. Think problem linked to Carb internals. sticking slide???

To eliminate which is causing the sticking:
Remove cable lug from throttle tube and roll throttle back and forth with 1 finger. It should roll very easily.
Now with cable still undone from the tube, grasp the cable lug and pull it straight out and slowly feed it back into the cable sheath. If it sticks, then remove carb and top of carb. Leave slide attached to cable and pull the cable out by the lug like you did before. Watch the spring compress and extend as you slowly let it back out. if it sticks again this time, you mostly likely have a single broken strand that is snagging on the coil shaped section of the sheath. If not, then you have an issue with the slide not freely traveling in the tracks, or the main jet needle not smoothly reinserting into the hole of the main jet.

Back to the very first test. If the throtle tube stuck at any point with the cable unattached, remove the rubber grip and check for cracks or breaks in the plastic throttle tube. With the rubber grip removed, and tube still attached roll it again with one finger. If it moves easily, take a look at the large round part of the grip. was it rubbing on the housing of the brake reservior?
let me know what you find, well get it figured out. - astrawoid
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1answer

When i put the bike into gear it will not move. You can hear grinding from the rear. Any ideas?

Hi
That sounds like the bevel box gears at the rear wheel or the drive shaft to them
Pull back the rubber boot at rear of engine to check if shaft is rotating
remove rear wheel & check the output shaft from the bevel box is rotating
If not then remove bevel box & check splined join to drive shaft

Ride Safe
Bike-Doc

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1answer

My bike was sitting for a while before i bought it i wanted to clean up the carbs but cant get them all the way off. i need to know how to remove the throttle and choke lines

Choke cable - The cable nipple attaches to a bracket on the choke shaft, pull on metal end of the cable (where it goes onto the carbs) until the bracket has moved enough to disengage the nipple (hold bracket, release cable & disengage)
Throttle cables - Loosen the cable adjuster at the twist-grip all the way. Next loosen the 4 clamp screws holding the carbs on, disconnect the vacuum hoses, then remove carbs lift them up & disconnect the cable nipples from their holders
Et Voila !

Ride safe
Bike-Doc
Please mark this as very helpful (if it has been!!)
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1answer

2003 BMW R 1150 RT Engine bogs down on hard acceleration from 1100 RPM

I'm guessing the TPS is bad, located on the Throttle body. If that doesn't do it check fuel pressure, have had fuel pumps cause that problem esp if the bike has been in accident, cracks the fuel pump inlet tube causing it to lose pressure.
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Bike has been sitting for more then 5 years.

I hope it was sitting inside and not outside. This will be a real project bike for you. Bear in mind that your 'free' bike may get costly. The following are general thoughts.

  • If the bike has a kick starter is it froze up or will it rotate the crankshaft? If it has only an electric starter, remove the bike battery and run jumper cables to the battery leads. Will the bike turn over using a car's battery?
  • Do the clutch and throttle cables work okay?
  • Can you shift up and down through the gears?
  • With car battery hooked up, does it have spark?
  • Shoot WD40 into each cylinder. Be liberal with the WD40.
  • Change gearbox oil. Disconnect the chain.
Does this bike have fuel injection or carburetors? CDI ignition or points? How bad is the rust inside the gas tank? Have you checked the cost of the following items?
  • New chain. New front and rear sprockets (if needed)
  • Battery
  • Carb rebuild kits (if carbs are there)
  • Upholstery
  • Tires
  • Throttle, clutch and front brake cables
  • Speedometer cable
  • Rear view mirrors
  • Title changeover, License plates and insurance
  • Electric starter (if needed)
  • Fuel pump (if injected and if needed)
Get back to me on this bike. I would like to see what you find.
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