Question about Harley Davidson FLSTC - FLSTCI Heritage Classic Motorcycles

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To begin with, I hope nobody was hurt. Having the rear wheel lock up at the wrong time could be hazardous. I hope the damage was limited to the bike. The bike can be fixed.

If the bike had 76,000 miles on it when this happened, I wouldn't classify it as a "frequent problem". Matter of fact, I've never heard of it happening but there seems to be something strange here. I don't know of many 2008 model bikes that have that many miles on them. Matter of fact, I don't know of many bikes PERIOD that have that many miles on them. My 1965 Panhead doesn't have that many miles on it.

Now, you can look for factory recalls. I looked in several places and didn't find anything. If you are still dissatisfied, you can call the customer services at the motor factory and complain. Maybe they'll do something.

Good Luck

Posted on Aug 23, 2010


  • L M Aug 24, 2010


    My 2009 FLSTC with 6,800 miles did the same thing. HD Dealer quoted $450 for parts and labor. Paid $250 for towing and $100 for hotel.

    Please email me to discuss [email protected]



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2009 trailblazer rear drivers side axle won't come out. c clip is out

Special Tools
  • Slide Hammer
  • Axle Remover
Removal Procedure

  1. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle.
  2. Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation.
  3. Remove the brake caliper. Refer to Rear Brake Caliper Replacement.
  4. Remove the rear wheel speed sensor. Refer to Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement.
  5. Remove the rear axle housing cover and the gasket. Refer to Rear Axle Housing Cover and Gasket Replacement.
  6. Remove the pinion shaft locking bolt.

  7. On axles without a locking differential, remove the pinion shaft.

  8. On axles with a locking differential, remove the shaft part way. Rotate the case until the pinion shaft touches the housing.

  9. On axles with a locking differential, use a screwdriver, or a similar tool, in order to enter the differential case and rotate the C-lock?(1) until the C-lock aligns with the thrust block?(2).
  10. Push the flange of the axle shaft?(1) toward the differential.

  11. Remove the C-lock from the button end of the axle shaft.

  12. Note: When removing the axle shaft, do not rotate the shaft. Rotating the shaft will misalign the gears. Misaligning the gears will make the installing of the axle shaft difficult.
  13. Remove the axle shaft from the housing.
  14. Hope this helps?

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Hi Terry,
Please check out this Link :
Here you will find the details regarding your Car and how you can check and repair the breaks without taking it to a mechanic.
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Hi Anonymous, jack up bike so rear wheel is off the ground and can spin, bang the caliper on the outer half with a deadblow or rubber mallet 2 or 3 good wacks. Try and spin the wheel, if it spins check the rotor for warpage then check the brake pedal to make it works and is not locking up the rear wheel to where it won't spin freely. If it does lock up then your caliper pistons are cocked and need to be pushed all the way back into the bores and re-bleed the system. Good luck

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Are the rear wheel axle spacers the same lenght on a 99 FLSTC? I am getting rear brake noise only in a turn and my pads are in good shape.

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Servicing front hubs

Automatic Locking Hub

  1. Shift transfer lever to the ``2H'' position, then move vehicle forward and rearward approximately three feet.
  2. Raise and support vehicle, then remove wheel and tire assemblies.
  3. Disconnect brake hose from caliper.
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  5. Rotate pad assembly upward then remove pad retaining clip and caliper assembly
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  7. Remove hub cap retaining bolts, then the hub cap, Fig. 15.
  8. Remove housing assembly, snap ring and shims.
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  10. Using tool J-36827 or equivalent, remove hub nut.
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    4. Remove caliper locking bolt.
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    6. Remove brake pad support bracket.
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Re. 2004 2500 Ram

you think your caliper just froze up? those arnt very expensive usually, i would just take off the caliper and see how hard it is to press in i was looking at the wiring diagram for your vehical there is a front left front right and a rear wheel speed sensor. it looks like there is no way the abs could lock up one rear, and besides the abs is to stop the wheels from locking up not to actually lock them up, anyways im almost positive its either someone left your brake on and didnt notice which wouldnot explain only one wheel locking up, your brake cable is unajusted on that side which would make it do this all the time, or that your caliper was just freezing up on that side which is probably what it was, you should be able to notice the drag, i would replace caliper and call it a day. make sure your caliper slides are not locked up also, that would cause only one side of your pad to contact that roter and overheat it quicker, so these last two options are the only plausible solutions i can come up with, if you take that caliper off, try to move the slides that the piston have that the bolts go through to the caliper mounts. make sure those are free floating first, then i would think of replacing the caliper if it goes in unsmoothly. good luck brother any other problems or need any other help give me a shout, take care

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