Question about 2002 Yamaha Xv 250 Virago S

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1995 Yamaha XV 250 Virago Is there a need to adjust the choke (start) cable? If so, how is it adjusted. I think I'm having a problem with my choke and was planning to replace the cable and starter mechanism at the carb end of the cable. I already have the cable off, not many moving parts, wondering if it's maybe just an adjustment problem. With the cable off, if I block the opening on the carb with my finger (simulates choke on), bike starts and runs fine. I'll spare the details on how I ended up at the choke cable, there were clues. Thanks!

Posted by Anonymous on

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  • Anonymous Jul 01, 2010

    Thanks for the comments! I ordered a new plunger kit with the new choke cable, figured while I have it off I might as well replace it all. Hopefully this will finally solve my problem. Thanks again!

  • Anonymous Jul 05, 2010

    So the new choke cable didn't fix the problem, still behaving like a fuel flow issue. I was thinking an intermittent fuel pump problem (gas flows from it, I checked), or carb problem such as float valve or needle valve, neither of which I replaced when I cleaned the carb earlier. Before shelling out for a new fuel pump or tearing the carb off (again) I ran a fuel line from the gas tank to carb, by-passing the fuel pump, and just using gravity gas feed. Runs good! No stall/hesitation when throttle applied. So either it's a fuel pump problem, or I'm overloading something in the carb like the float valve?? But I'm wondering, why can't I just leave it setup as is, use gravity feed for fuel and not use the fuel pump?? Seems to run good this way, why is a fuel pump needed? Thanks.

  • Anonymous Jul 06, 2010

    Thanks for the reply, this helps. I have it set on reserve, tanks about 1/2 full. I've had it up to 55mph, seemed to run okay, a slight sputter during acceleration but nothing that really concerned me. I think I'll check the float level since that's simple enough, and if I can find a cheap fuel pump I'll replace it (new ones online are ~$130!). I'll run it as is for now (without fuel pump) and see how it goes. Any pointers to a bone yard where I might find a cheap, used fuel pump?? Thanks.

  • Anonymous Jul 22, 2010

    Thanks for the suggestion, I didn't even know there was a stand switch. I'll check it out but I don't think that was it since the bike idles okay and only stalls when I try to give it gas, it acts more like a gas flow problem than an electrical cut off.



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David Belcher

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The problems with a plunger style choke happen when the rubber on the bottom becomes deformed and does not seal or the spring does not push the plunger down hard enough, or the cap breaks so the plunger is not pushed down hard enough. If you put your finger over the hole and the bike runs properly your bike is running on choke. You have to block the hole deep inside the carb to shut off the choke. I assume the original problem was that the bike would not idle .If this is the case, take the carb apart remove the slow jet and clean the jet and the carb body out so fuel will flow at idle. This should fix your no idle problem.

Posted on Jun 29, 2010

Testimonial: "Thanks for the info. The original problem was the bike would idle okay, but stall as soon as gas was applied, I suspected a gas flow problem. I shotgunned a bunch of things including new petcock value filter in tank, taking carb off and cleaning jets, float bowl, and various orifices, replaced intake manifold (thought it could be a vacuum leak from some cracks seen), plus some other things I'm probably forgetting. Each change seemed to fix problem for a while, but it would always return (problem was always intermittent). Recently I noticed just moving the choke cable (without changing choke setting) was causing bike idle to change, then it died hard and would not start again after I fiddled with cable a bit - tried ether, etc. Since it fired right up after taking choke cable off I ordered a new one, still waiting for it, hopefully that'll fix it. I couldn't find anyway to adjust choke cable though manual debug section claims it can mis-adjusted. If this still fails I'll probably take the carb off again and try cleaning again. Been an intermittent thorn in my side for a while now. Thanks for the suggestions!! "

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  • David Belcher
    David Belcher Jun 30, 2010

    Usually the problem is not the cable, it is the actual plunger. If the cable moves freely in the housing, it is working correctly even if there is a little slack. Carefully remove the choke plunger and inspect the surface that is pressed against the carb body with spring pressure. This is the critical spot that determines if the choke is shut off or leaking too much fuel to the engine. If the piece that holds the plunger and spring into the carb is made of plastic it is very common for the plastic to crack causing the choke to leak excess fuel. If you need these parts they are sold in a kit. Hope this information gets you back on the road.

  • David Belcher
    David Belcher Jul 05, 2010

    If all the gas will flow from the tank to the carb, I see no reason why you can't skip the fuel pump completely. Try running on reserve with out the pump, just to make sure fuel pressure is not a problem and you can use all your fuel. A fuel pump is only necessary if the carb requires a certain amount of pressure or if you have to pump fuel from a low tank UP to the carburetor. The only other thing I can think of that might affect how the cycle runs, would be incorrect float level. Black plastic floats can saturate with ethanol and sink (has to float in fuel,if not replace.) A bad float needle would drip, leave a puddle on the floor, or fill the engine with gas ( if petcock does not shut off properly) I purchased a bike once that i was told would run , but discovered the owner had put the float in upside down. Hope something here helps your dilemma.

  • David Belcher
    David Belcher Jul 07, 2010

    When it comes to a part like an electric fuel pump, used should not be an option. If you were only interested in a short term fix , say , just to get the bike sold, it would be the way to go. If you intend to keep the bike, a new pump is best. You typically get a one month warranty on the part, if you install, or a three month warranty if a shop installs. If you buy a used pump for $50 dollars and it only lasts a month, you will certainly wish you had purchased a new. On the other hand if you get one from EBAY for $20 and it lasts 3 years. Did you try ?




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Its the Stand swich it happened to my Yamaha Virago 250
I got a new swich and it went as it was brand new

Posted on Jul 21, 2010


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