How many pounds did i set my torque wrench to when screwing down the screws for the clutch of my fzr600 from 1992

24 to 30 inch pounds nut most people don't use a torque wrench. IF you don't have one that read inch pounds tighten them to where the gasket just bulges slightly and stop.

Instructions

1. • 1 Place a rear stand under the motorcycle's swing arm to support it.
     
   • 2 Remove the right side fairing panel from the motorcycle, using a 5 mm Allen wrench to unscrew the fairing's bolts. Pull the fairing slightly away from the motorcycle. Reach behind the fairing and unplug the right front turn signal. Set the fairing aside.
     
   • 3 Shift the motorcycle into neutral and start the motor. Let it warm up for three minutes, then stop the motor.
     
   • 4 Place an oil pan beneath the drain plug on the bottom of the motor, centered between the exhaust pipes. Unscrew the filler cap from the clutch cover on the right side of the motorcycle.
     
   • 5 Unscrew the drain plug, using a 17 mm socket and a socket wrench, and drain the motor's oil into the oil pan. Clean the drain plug with a shop towel and reinsert it into the motor. Use a torque wrench to tighten the drain plug to 22 foot-pounds.
     
   • 6 Use an oil filter cap wrench to unscrew the oil filter from the right side of the motor.
     
   • 7 Spread an even coat of 10W40 motor oil over the new oil filter's O-ring. Screw the oil filter onto the motor by hand. Use a torque wrench to tighten the oil filter to 20 foot-pounds.
     
   • 8 Place a funnel into the clutch cover's filler. Pour up to 3.3 quarts of 10W40 motor oil into the motor. Remove the funnel and screw the filler cap into place.
     
   • 9 Reinstall the right side fairing panel, using a 5 mm Allen wrench to insert the fairing's bolts.
     
   • 10 Lower the motorcycle from the rear stand and rest it on its kickstand.
     

Instructions

1. Removal
   • 1 Remove the seat retainer screw from the seat mounting bracket using a ratchet and Allen driver. Lift the rear of the seat up and slide the seat toward the rear of the bike to disengage the seat from the frame and remove it from the bike.
     
   • 2 Don a face shield and rubber gloves.
     
   • 3 Remove the battery cover retaining screw from the bottom of the battery cover using a ratchet and Allen driver. Tilt the top of the battery cover out and lift the cover to disengage it from the battery tray.
     
   • 4 Remove the negative battery cable from the battery using a 10 mm wrench.
     
   • 5 Remove the positive battery cable from the battery using a 10 mm wrench.
     
   • 6 Unhook and remove the battery strap. Remove the battery from the tray. Remove face shield and rubber gloves.
     
   • 7 Remove the two top battery tray screws from the frame above the battery tray and the bottom battery tray screw from the inside of the battery tray using a ratchet and Allen driver.
     
   • 8 Remove the battery tray from the bike while guiding the battery cables through the holes in the battery tray.
     
   • 9 Remove the starter end-cover nut, using a ratchet and socket, and pull the end-cover off the starter.
     
   • 10 Pull back the protective rubber boot off the positive cable terminal. Using a wrench, remove the positive cable nut and then lift the ring terminal off the starter terminal stud. Unplug the solenoid electrical connector from the solenoid.
     
   • 11 Remove the two starter retaining bolts from the starter using a ratchet and Allen driver. Pull the starter off the bike. Remove and discard the starter housing O-ring.
     
   Installation
   • 12 Inspect the two split-ring bushings in the inner primary case where the starter mounts for slack or looseness. Remove the split-ring bushings and spread them to provide a slight interference fit in the primary housing. Push the split-ring bearings back into position.
     
   • 13 Install a new starter housing O-ring on the starter assembly. Install the starter assembly on the bike.
     
   • 14 Apply one drop of Loctite Threadlocker 243 to the treads of the starter retaining bolts. Install the starter retaining bolts and washers and tighten them to 24 to 27 foot-pounds using a foot-pound torque wrench and Allen driver.
     
   • 15 Install the positive cable ring terminal and nut on the starter terminal stud. Tighten the nut to 65 to 85 inch-pounds using an inch-pound torque wrench and socket. Push the protective boot securely over the positive cable terminal. Plug the solenoid electrical connector into the solenoid.
     
   • 16 Position the starter end-cover on the starter and install the nut, using a ratchet and socket.
     
   • 17 Place the battery tray in position while guiding the battery cables through the holes in the tray.
     
   • 18 Install the upper and lower battery tray screws and washers. Tighten the screws to 96 to 120 inch-pounds, using an inch-pound torque wrench and Allen driver.
     
   • 19 Guide the battery cables into the recesses at the upper corners of the battery tray.
     
   • 20 Don face shield and rubber gloves.
     
   • 21 Place the battery in the battery tray with the terminals facing out. Snap the battery strap in position.
     
   • 22 Install the positive battery cable and cable bolt. Tighten the bolt to 60 to 70 inch-pounds using an inch-pound torque wrench and socket.
     
   • 23 Install the negative battery cable and cable bolt. Tighten the bolt to 60 to 70 inch-pounds, using an inch-pound torque wrench and socket.
     
   • 24 Remove the face shield and rubber gloves.
     
   • 25 Apply a light coat of corrosion retardant grease or petroleum jelly to the terminals.
     
   • 26 Install the battery cover and screw. Tighten the screw securely using a ratchet and Allen driver.
     
   • 27 Place the seat on the bike. Lift the rear of the seat and slide it forward to engage the seat tab in the frame slot. Lower the rear of the seat and install the seat retainer screw through the seat mounting bracket. Tighten the seat retainer screw securely using a ratchet and Allen driver. Lift up on the seat to make certain that it is mounted securely on the bike.
     

Instructions

1. Removal
   • 1 Remove the seat retainer screw from the seat mounting bracket using a ratchet and Allen driver. Lift the rear of the seat up and slide the seat toward the rear of the bike to disengage the seat from the frame and remove it from the bike.
     
   • 2 Don a face shield and rubber gloves.
     
   • 3 Remove the battery cover retaining screw from the bottom of the battery cover using a ratchet and Allen driver. Tilt the top of the battery cover out and lift the cover to disengage it from the battery tray.
     
   • 4 Remove the negative battery cable from the battery using a 10 mm wrench.
     
   • 5 Remove the positive battery cable from the battery using a 10 mm wrench.
     
   • 6 Unhook and remove the battery strap. Remove the battery from the tray. Remove face shield and rubber gloves.
     
   • 7 Remove the two top battery tray screws from the frame above the battery tray and the bottom battery tray screw from the inside of the battery tray using a ratchet and Allen driver.
     
   • 8 Remove the battery tray from the bike while guiding the battery cables through the holes in the battery tray.
     
   • 9 Remove the starter end-cover nut, using a ratchet and socket, and pull the end-cover off the starter.
     
   • 10 Pull back the protective rubber boot off the positive cable terminal. Using a wrench, remove the positive cable nut and then lift the ring terminal off the starter terminal stud. Unplug the solenoid electrical connector from the solenoid.
     
   • 11 Remove the two starter retaining bolts from the starter using a ratchet and Allen driver. Pull the starter off the bike. Remove and discard the starter housing O-ring.
     
   Installation
   • 12 Inspect the two split-ring bushings in the inner primary case where the starter mounts for slack or looseness. Remove the split-ring bushings and spread them to provide a slight interference fit in the primary housing. Push the split-ring bearings back into position.
     
   • 13 Install a new starter housing O-ring on the starter assembly. Install the starter assembly on the bike.
     
   • 14 Apply one drop of Loctite Threadlocker 243 to the treads of the starter retaining bolts. Install the starter retaining bolts and washers and tighten them to 24 to 27 foot-pounds using a foot-pound torque wrench and Allen driver.
     
   • 15 Install the positive cable ring terminal and nut on the starter terminal stud. Tighten the nut to 65 to 85 inch-pounds using an inch-pound torque wrench and socket. Push the protective boot securely over the positive cable terminal. Plug the solenoid electrical connector into the solenoid.
     
   • 16 Position the starter end-cover on the starter and install the nut, using a ratchet and socket.
     
   • 17 Place the battery tray in position while guiding the battery cables through the holes in the tray.
     
   • 18 Install the upper and lower battery tray screws and washers. Tighten the screws to 96 to 120 inch-pounds, using an inch-pound torque wrench and Allen driver.
     
   • 19 Guide the battery cables into the recesses at the upper corners of the battery tray.
     
   • 20 Don face shield and rubber gloves.
     
   • 21 Place the battery in the battery tray with the terminals facing out. Snap the battery strap in position.
     
   • 22 Install the positive battery cable and cable bolt. Tighten the bolt to 60 to 70 inch-pounds using an inch-pound torque wrench and socket.
     
   • 23 Install the negative battery cable and cable bolt. Tighten the bolt to 60 to 70 inch-pounds, using an inch-pound torque wrench and socket.
     
   • 24 Remove the face shield and rubber gloves.
     
   • 25 Apply a light coat of corrosion retardant grease or petroleum jelly to the terminals.
     
   • 26 Install the battery cover and screw. Tighten the screw securely using a ratchet and Allen driver.
     
   • 27 Place the seat on the bike. Lift the rear of the seat and slide it forward to engage the seat tab in the frame slot. Lower the rear of the seat and install the seat retainer screw through the seat mounting bracket. Tighten the seat retainer screw securely using a ratchet and Allen driver. Lift up on the seat to make certain that it is mounted securely on the bike.
     

To install a stator on your Softail, you'll have to remove the outer primary, the engine drive sprocket, primary chain, and clutch assembly. Then, you can get to the four screws that holds the stator. The job is not that difficult if you've got a few tools and a bit of mechanical skills. The engine sprocket is quite tight and you'll probably need an air wrench or a "locking bar" to keep the engine from turning while you torque the engine nut holding the sprocket. The engine sprocket torques to 150-165 foot pounds and the clutch nut torques to 60-80 foot pounds LEFT HANDED. Some click type torque wrenches will not work in the left handed direction. The clutch nut is behind the adjuster plate in the center of the clutch assembly. Just take the snap ring out and you'll see it.

I use two 5/16" bolts about three inches long to remove the magnetic rotor. Stick the bolts just slightly in the two holes and squeeze them together so that they bind. Then pull the rotor off. Take the four torqs, out of the stator and the two screws out of the plastic plug retainer. Work the plug out of the case and lift the stator off the sprocket shaft. Install the new stator by coating the new plug with black RTV. Put the stator over the sprocket shaft and then work the plug into the hole in the engine case. Put the stator in place and put the NEW bolts that came with it in place and start them. Put the plastic plug retainer in and then torque the stator bolts to 40 inch pounds.

I'm going to assume that you are talking about how to remove the engine sprocket from the sprocket shaft in the primary cover.

First, disconnect the battery and drain the primary. Look underneath the primary and loosen the locknut for the primary chain adjuster and loosen the primary chain by turning the screw outwards a few turns.

Then take the derby cover off the primary and remove the spring and locknut for the clutch adjustment. Remove the screws from around the primary and break it loose from the engine. Turn the clutch adjustment screw clockwise while removing the primary cover. Lay the primary cover aside.

Now, there is a plate in the center of the clutch assembly held in with a circlip. Remove the circlip. Now you'll need either an air wrench or a locking bar to lock the primary to prevent it from turning so you can get the clutch hub nut and the engine sprocket nut off. The engine nut has right hand threads and comes off normally. The clutch hub nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS and you must turn it in reverse. Once you get the two nuts off, you can usually grab the engine sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift those two units and the chain off at once. Sometimes you may need a puller to get the engine sprocket off but usually it just comes right off.

Installation is the reverse with the engine nut being torques to 150 foot pounds and the clutch hub nut torqued to 60 foot pounds left handed.

Good Luck
Steve

To replace the stator on your Wide Glide, you'll have to pull the outer primary cover off. This means drain the oil and remove the outer primary cover. Then, you'll need a wrench to remove the large nut on the engine compensator sprocket. You'll probably need a "locking bar" to wedge between the sprokets to lock the assembly from turning. Remove the snap ring in the center of the clutch assembly, remove the clutch release plate that is held in by the snap ring. Inside the clutch is a nut that has LEFT HANDED THREADS, remove this nut. Take the nut off the primary chain adjuster. Grab the clutch assembly and the engine compensator sprocket and lift these parts and the chain off as a unit.

Now, there are some thin spacers that go behind the sprocket shaft extension and a 0.090" thick spacer that goes behind the rotor. Do not mix these shims up. You'll see two holes in the rotor. I use two 5/16" bolts about three inches long to get the rotor off. Stick them in the holes just slightly, squeeze the outer ends towards each other and pull the rotor off. The magnets are pretty strong. The stator is held on by four small Torx head bolts and there's nylon retainer with two small screws that hold the plug in. Retorque the four Torx head screws to 40 inch pounds of torque with a Loctite #242 blue or equivalent thread locking compound on them. Reassembly is the reverse of the assembly. The torque on the clutch assembly nut (mainshaft nut) is 60-70 foot pounds with one line of Loctite #271 red locktite, (remember this nut has left-handed threads) and the engine compensator sprocket torques to 150-165 foot pounds with two lines of Loctite #271 red. Adjust the primary chain so that the up and down play in the center of the top run is 3/4" to 7/8" cold. Outer primary bolts torque to 100 inch pounds.

For a better explanation, you'll need an OEM service manual.

Good Luck
Steve

I don't know of anywhere that you can get a diagram on how to change the stator in your ElectraGlide other than a factory service manual. But, all is not lost as it's really not that difficult if you have a few tools. An air wrench or you can trailer it to a tire store and give the guy a couple of dollars to take the compensator nut off, a primary locking bar or something to lock the primary from turning while you tightent the nuts, and a torque wrench capable of 150 foot pounds right hand and 60-80 left handed.

First drain the oil from the primary and disconnect the battery. Remove the left foot board. Remove the outer primary cover. Now remove the large compensator sprocket nut from the engine shaft. Take out the snap ring on the middle of the clutch assembly and remove the plate with the two ears on it. Remove the nut inside the clutch assembly. This nut has the LEFT HANDED THREADS on it. Don't forget. Remove the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster on. Now grab the compensator sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift the chain, sprocket, adjuster and clutch assembly out of the primary and lay on sheet of cardboard or something.

Go back to the engine sprocket and remove the sprocket shaft extension. Notice, there are some shims behind the sprocket shaft extension between it and the alternator rotor, do not lose them or mix them up with a shim that is going to come off later. Now, take two long quarter or five sixteenths bolts and stick them in the two holes on the rotor, not deep just about a quarter inch will do. Squeeze them together and pull the rotor off. Behind the rotor is a shim. It should be 0.090" thick, mark or remember that this shim goes there.

Now, you're down to the stator. There are four small screws that take a Torx wrench to remove and a plastic retainer with two small sheet metal screws holding the rotor and rotor plug in. Remove all these. and work the plug out of the case. Sometimes it's easier to simply cut the wires and push the plug out of the case from the inside.

Now, clean the hole for the plug and place the new stator ring on the engine sprocket shaft, plug wires coming off of the rear of the stator. I usually coat the plug with black RTV sealant to prevent leaks and work the plug into the hole from the inside of the case. Once you get it where it should be, put the small retainer back on using the two small sheet metal screws. Position the stator and install the new screws that came with it. If none came with it, put a drop or two of Locktite 242 blue on each screws and tighten them to 30-40 INCH pounds.

Put the 0.090" shim on, the rotor and the sprocket shaft extension with the other shims behind it on the engine shaft. Pick up the primary drive stuff with the engine sprocket in your right hand and the clutch assembly in your left. Hang the cluch assembly or the sprocket on the approtiate shaft and work the primary chain adjuster on the bolt that it goes on. Slide the sprocket and the clutch assembly to their seats on their respective shafts.

Now you will need a "locking bar" to go between the two sprockets, locking into the teeth of the engine sprocket and the clutch sprocket so that they cannot turn as you tighten everything up. Complete the assembly of the compensator sprocket and put two LINES of Locktite 271 red in the nut. Tighten the nut to 150-165 FOOT pounds of torque. On the mainshaft nut inside the clutch assembly, put one line of Loctite 271 red in the nut and tighten it to 60-80 FOOT pounds of torque LEFT-HANDED THREADS. Replace the two eared plate in the center of the clutch assembly and the snap ring. Replace the primary cover and refill the primary with lubricant. Fill just to the bottom of the spring in the clutch assembly. Do not overfill. Your clutch will drag making it impossible to find neutral with the engine running.

Good luck
steve

You can do the job yourself with no problem. No specific pattern for the side cover. BUT, get all the screws started then just bring them all slightly snug. Now tighten one screw and then go kitty corner and tighten another now drop down and pick a screw mid way between the first two screws and tighten it. Now do the kitty corner thing again and so on. As you know, the idea is to tighten the screws evenly around the entire cover.

As to torque, a 6mm screw gets 7 foot pounds or 85 inch pounds.
Realistically, no one ever bothers with torque on small screws. You will want to spend $15 to $20 and get yourself an impact driver to tighten or loosen screws. The tool is about 6" long and 2" in diameter and has a 3/8" drive on one end. Your socket set will fit it as well as screw driver bits. Just engage the bit into the head of the screw and strike the end of the impact driver with a hammer while twisting the tool to tighten the screw. This is the most valuable tool in my shop and I use one (Blue Point brand) that I got 40 years ago. They last well and can be used on any screw, bolt or nut that needs a little persuasion.

Please rate this solution as a "FixYa" if I have helped. Thanks!

Message:
My 2002 Dakota has been somewhat confused about shifting as well. It showed a code P1762. I dropped the pan to install a new fluid filter and fluid-(use only ATF+3 or ATF+4). Since the pan was off I decided to adjust the bands. The front band controls the 2nd gear cluster. The rear band controls the 3rd gear cluster and reverse. For a 2-3 shift, the transmission shifts back to 1st gear with the front band while the rear band engages 3rd gear. If the front band does not release the 2nd gear clutches before the third gear clutches engage, the transmission binds, which shortens the life of the transmission clutches. If the front band releases too early in the shift, the engine will overspeed (sounds and feels like a slip) during the 2-3 shift.
The front band adjusting screw is on the driver's side above the shift linkage. The rear band is inside the fluid pan near the filter.
1. Loosen band adjusting screw locknut. Then back locknut off 3-5 turns. Be sure adjusting screw turns freely in case. Apply lubricant to screw
threads if necessary. The front band adjuster is on the outside of the transmission and the locknut requires a 3/4" wrench.

2. Using Inch Pound Torque Wrench C-3380-A, a 3-in. extension and appropriate Torx� socket (T-40), tighten adjusting screw to 72 in-lb. CAUTION: If Adapter C-3705 (from SPX Miller) is needed to reach the adjusting screw, tighten the screw to only 47-50 in. lbs. torque.

3. Back off adjusting screw the number of turns listed below for your transmission.

4. Hold adjusting screw in place and tighten lock-nut to:

41 N�m (30 ft. lbs.) for the front band
34 N�m (25 ft. lbs.) for the rear band
The adjustment screw inside the case is a square head bolt. You will need a 1/4 square head socket to fit your torque wrench.
Band adjustments for each model year:
1994

* Front Band - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2-1/2 turns (all transmissions)
* Rear Band
o 32/42RH - Tighten to 72 in-LB, back off 4 turns
o 36/37/46/47RH - Tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2 turns

1995-1996

* Front Band
o 42RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2-1/4 turns
o 46RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2-7/8 turns
o 47RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 1-7/8 turns
* Rear Band
o 42RE/RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 4 turns
o 46RE/RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2 turns
o 47RE/RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 3 turns

1997-1998

* Front Band
o 42RE - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 3-5/8 turns
o 46RE - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2-7/8 turns
o 47RE - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 1-7/8 turns
* Rear Band
o 42RE - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 4 turns
o 46RE - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2 turns
o 47RE - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 3 turns

1999

* Front Band
o 42RE - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 3 turns. (TSB 21-16-98)
o 47RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 1 7/8 turns
* Rear Band
o 47RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 3 turns
+ The 47RH rear band requires a 1/4" hex driver, the front band requires a
T-30 Torx driver, the filter is held in place by two screws which require a T-20 Torx drive

2000-2002

* Front Band
o 42RE - Tighten band adj. screw to 72 in-lb, back off 3 turns
o 44RE - Tighten band adj. screw to 72 in-lb, back off 1 7/8 turns
o 46RE - Tighten band adj. screw to 72 in-lb, back off 2 7/8 turns
o 47RE - Tighten band adj. screw to 72 in-lb, back off 1 7/8 turns
From Bill Konolday's 47RE notes: I usually go a little looser than factory
specs on this front band - backing off the adjustment screw 2 or 2 1/4 turns.
Depending on the circumstances I have backed off the band up to 2 1/2 turns.
* Rear Band
o 42RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 4 turns
o 44RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 4 turns
o 46RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 2 turns
o 47RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 3 turns

2003

* Front Band
o 48RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 1-3/4 turns
* Rear Band
o 48RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 3 turns

2005

* Front Band
o 48RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds,
back off front band adjusting screw 1-3/4 turns for diesel vehicles,
or 1-1/2 turns, for V-10 vehicles.
* Rear Band
o 48RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 3 turns

94+ Automatic Transmission Bolt and Nut Torque Specs

* Front band adjustment locknut - 30 ft-lb
* Rear band adjustment locknut - 25 ft-lb
* Transmission pan bolts - 13 ft-lb
I just replaced the solenoid with the recommended transducer and all is fine now. The transducer cost me about $50 at a nearby dealership.
Hope this helps. -zman. [email protected]