At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
run a compression check to see if it is low. If low squirt some oil in cylinder and rerun. If it stays low possible valve guide problem. If oil fixes compression then the rings are bad.
most piston /ring kits come in .010" , .020",.030",.040" oversize
most engine re-conditioners use cnc borers set to an over size and bore to that
after honing to get the correct cross hatch pattern in the bore , that is it
the ring gap is what is important and it should be around .003" per ever 1" of bore
so for a 3" bore the gap should be around .010"
experience has proved that if the cylinder is bored to say .020" oversize then when the gap for .020" oversize rings is checked ,it generally comes in around .015 and even as large as .020"
max specs for ring gaps is .025" which is for a worn cylinder
just honing a bore is a waste of effort as bores wear in a taper ( larger at the top than the bottom and this taper increases the wear of the new rings and can lead to broken rings
the ridge at the top of the bore has to be removed to allow the piston to come out easily and to prevent piston failure when the new rings are fitted
have a talk with engine reconditioning shops and then make an informed decision
remember that if the cylinder can be separated from the crankcase , you can buy standard or oversize piston/ring/cylinder sets as assemblies so there is no need to bore out or hone.
A few things,start simple disconnect the kill switch,remove the spark plug cap from the wire,check all your coneections from the stator to the cdi box to the coil.Still no spark your going to need a multi meter to check the stator and coil.If all this checks out to be good then it is your cdi box.A word of caution test these parts before replacing as they are not returnable and could get costly.A good shop could diagnose your problem in hour time.It may be money well spent if you do not understand your bikes ignition system.
if its the gearoil level bolt then its stripped threads and needs sorting asap coz if it falls out while riding then oil will come out and seize the engine ! switch for the lights should be on the bars or sometimes on the key if fitted , trace wires and see! P...
a compressed air hose will do it, just make sure it is wrapped in rags to catch the piston and some brake fluid that will come out.
Dont point it towards anyone when you do it.
Hi,
Most late modle MX & enduro (from about 1990 on plus some even earlier)
have what is called an electrofusion bore.
This is a very thin plating on the alloy cylinder. They use this so as to allow heat to dissipate quicker & can run tighter piston cylinder tolerances for improved performance.
To answer your questions,
No, they can't be re-bored(like the older style steel sleeved bore bikes could)
Yes, they can be honed but it requires a special type of hone(finger type bottle brush style hone).
Pistons are available increasing in size by much smaller incriments than the old style & are usually marked A,B,C,D(as the coating is much thinner than steel sleeve).
If it is scored very badly & you can see alluminum spots/scores anywhere on the cylinder surface there are several ways to deal with this.
Here in Australia there is a company(electrocill) that can re-cote the cylinder which is much cheaper(plus thicker & stronger) than replacing the barrel
If you have a cylinder re-coated It has to have all studs, seals & power valve assemblys removed.
You would also need to supply(or have them supply) a new piston in order for them to set the correct clearance.
Also here in Australia you can have most of the common models fitted with a sleeve & this gives you the abillity to rebore in the future.
In the U.S this company is known as Wisco(serco in Aust.)
It is worthy of noting that the piston rings are not interchangable between an electrofusion & steel type cylinder.(so if you opt for a re-sleeveing any spare rings from your spares kit ar of no use).
If you need a lead on how & if these services are available in your country(if your not in Australia) I suggest taking a look in the classified section of your local dirt bike magazine.
The trick is to undertake regular srevicing of your air filter(this is A MUST),oiling it properly with propper foam filter oil, useing a top quality 2stroke oil(motul,syn-lube for eg)
& regularly inspect & replace rings/piston as needed to get the best life from electrofusion or steel type bores
Hope this explains it all for you
Regards Andrew Porrelli
DON'T SLEEVE. It is almost as cost effective to have the cylinder welded and re nik-a-sil'ed. Sleeves don't have as good of cooling effect and rarely yield the same performance. not to mention you have to run an oddball piston and hone it.
re nik-a-sil and don't let the ring go too long next time and you'll have years of trouble free service.
Use 5wt. fork oil or ATF Dextron II/III. I've use both and have the 5wt. fork oil in now. Suppose to have a lighter pull but can't really tell any difference. Use a large syringe to pump the oil in from the bleeder at the bottom up to the master cylinder.
gas/oil ratio should be 40:1 synetic.empty tank drain carb bowl thats it
l have 92 250 exc. It has fmf pipe &silencer boyesson rad valve, been ported ,crank has been balanced,PVL ignition. I use spectro synetic 36;1 to keep it well lubed at wide open. ,,,
×