Want to know if I need a spring compresser to remove the spring in the clutch on a 2002 touring bike?

Check your Compression, once the engine gets to temperature, you are EXPANDING the Metal and losing compression.

It could also be the PRIMARY CLUTCH, If you are experiencing a Primary Clutch Failure, the Springs inside will be effected by the HEAT.

QUESTION:-
What is the Engine RPM when you are doing 100 and when doing 60?
Is the Engine RPM IDENTICAL? If RPM is the Same, you have a Primary Issue, if the Engine can't get out of its own way, then you have a Compression Issue

Its possible that you have an aftermarket clutch and springs in it. The best way to know for sure,is to pull the clutch cover off the bike,and pull the springs and measure the height and spring tension.Be sure to tap the clutch cover with a plastic mallet SOFTLY and rotate the cover while pushing down before removing it.this keeps the rubber o-ring from popping out,...which is a PAIN to get back in if it slips out.
Good Luck!

Have you checked each individual clutch spring to see if broken?
To get clutch basket off: remove all springs, all friction plates. Make sure to leave all plates in original order. Then, with impact gun, remove large nut in center of
clutch basket. Should remove easily. No puller needed.

You need a special tool to compress the clutch spring. When you compress the clutch spring, the ring that prevents the circlip from coming out will move backwards allowing you to get the circlip out. Then the clutch spring and pressure plate will come off with the tool. Jim's, Barnett's, and Motion Pro makes the tool and it cost about sixty dollars.
http://www.customchrome.net/icatalog/full.aspx?Page=1229

Good Luck
Steve

The engine oil tank is on the bottom of the transmission. On one corner of the transmission there is a large 2" diameter cap with knurling on the edges. Pull this out and you'll see the oil dipstick. Check the oil with the bike on the side stand. Lower mark is FULL COLD, upper mark is FULL HOT. do not overfill. Capacity with filter change 3 quarts.

The transmission oil is separate from the engine oil. On the right side of the bike just behind the exhaust system is the chrome clutch release mechanism. It has a plug in it that takes a 7/16" Allen or Hex key wrench to remove it. With the bike standing straight up, the oil level should be between the two marks on the dipstick. Capacity 20-24 ounces

The primary also has oil in it. With the bike standing straight up, remove the round "derby" cover. Inside is the clutch assembly. You'll see a bright ring around the clutch assembly with the dark clutch spring inside. Fill the oil just until it touches the lowest point of the dark clutch spring. Do not overfill. Capacity, 36-42 ounces.

Good Luck
Steve

On your '96 model, you need a special tool to disassemble the clutch pack. The tool is # HD-38515A clutch spring compression tool. Jim's and several other manufacturers make this tool. JP Cycle has a Jim's Part Number: 620-198 for $50.

Disconnect the battery and drain the primary. Remove any floorboards and other thing necessary to get the outer primary cover off. Using the above mentioned tool, compress the clutch spring and remove the lock ring that holds the spring in. Take note that there is a lock ring seat on top of the spring. This part is like a solid ring that goes behind the lock ring. It is "L" shaped so pay particular attention to the way it is positioned. Once you get the lock ring off, release the tension on the tool and allow the spring to come out of the clutch outer drum. Start taking the old disc out and laying them aside. Notice where the "sping plate" goes in the clutch stack. Replace it in the same position. Soak your new plates in oil overnight and then install them into the clutch drum exactly like the old ones came out. Install the spring and use the compression tool to install the lock ring and seat.

Adjust the clutch according to service manual directions and replace the outer primary cover. Add oil and reconnect the battery.

Ride Safe
Steve

In order to remove the clutch from your bike, you must have a special tool. You'll need H-D #34761 in order to remove the snap ring holding the clutch together.

Disconnect the battery, drain the primary, and remove the primary cover. Once you have the primary cover off, you can remove the nut from the compensator sprocket at the engine end of the primary chain.

Install the H-D 34761 or equivalent tool and compress the clutch spring. Remove the snap ring and then back off on the tool to release the pressure on the clutch spring. Once the pressure has been removed, remove the adjusting screw assembly, the outer clutch spring seats, the clutch spring, the inner clutch spring seat, and the pressure plate.

Then you can disassemble the rest of the clutch. Remove the remove the four friction plates and three drive plates. Then you can remove the spring plate and the remaining plates after that. Remove the snap ring that holds the clutch assembly onto the transmission clutch gear and remove the inner and outer clutch shells, the primary chain, and the engine sprocket as a group.

For this job, I would recommend that you purchase a service manual. It's has pictures that show you what you're dealing with and in this case, a picture is truly worth a thousand words.

Good Luck
Steve

it sounds like you have worn clutch plates remove the cover of the clutch you will see the clutch plates held in buy 4 bolts with springs remove in a criss cross way rember the way they came out if they are black or dont they flat on a sheet of glass or flat plate they are bent replace clutch plates on springs

ok there is two solutions to this prob to consider first try the clutch cable adjustment. If that does nothing try The clutch springs inside the case. If there are wear marks on the clutch basket then you need to completely replace the clutch all together. let me know how you make out