How much oil at the oil change and what weight?

Use only the oil weight on the oil cap or owners manual if the cap does not list the oil weight. Most older vehicles called for eather 10w30 or 5w30 depending on the ambient temp. In the past 10 or so years, manufacturers updated engines for better fuel efficiency by tightening tolerances in the engines, thereby needing a lighter oil weight to provide sufficient lubrication for the parts So manufacturers started requiring 5w20 oil in their engines. I work as an Auto Care Technician at Walmart, and we will NOT do an oil change for any weight other than the recommended weight by the manufacturer. If it calls for 5w20, we use 5w20, regardless of what the owner wants. This is to avoid any possible engine oil related problems. People will blame someone else if they have a warranty issue the dealer refuses to honor for whatever reason, and it would go back to the last place the vehicle had the oil changed at. So therefore at Walmart, we follow the manufacturers recommended oil weight for all oil changes.

Put straight 30 weight motor oil in it. Not 10W30 or any multi-viscosity oil. Straight 30 weight motor oil. If you're doing a complete oil change, then you may want to use Synthetic 30 weight, which will last longer between oil changes and also make your engine last longer (but it costs more too). Best of luck to you.
James

Only the manufacturer's recommended oil weight should ever be used in your engine.

While using a heavier weight oil might reduce the leakage somewhat, (but not much), the benefit will be more than offset by the internal damage that an UN-recommended oil weight may cause to your engine. The engine was built with certain tolerances between the metal parts, and a higher weight (thicker oil viscosity) may not be able to penetrate the spaces, causing premature wear.

In short, don't do it. Repair the leaky seal, or gasket, and only run what Saturn says you should run.

who ever changed your oil may have used the wrong weight, this may be causing the tapping noise

5w 30 or 10w 30 during the winter. After an oil change... check your oil after 200-300 miles of use. Is the level the same? If so your weight is fine. If it drops, it's to light of an oil and your engine is now "drinking it" like fuel, move to a heavier weight. As far as Changing between winter and summer. Changing Oil weights is not bad for your motor so if the winter you go with 5w 30 and it works, great, shoot for the same during the summer. If it seems to "drink it" during the summer using this weight, go up to the next (10w 30)

That being said. Changing from natural oil, to synthetic, back to naturual , or vice versa... swapping back and forth between these KINDS of oil has been known to cause damage. so whatever weight you decide on, stick with one "type", natural or synthetic.

Most likely, you have had the wrong weight oil installed during your oil changes. The 09s are VERY specific to the exact weight of oil.
Use ONLY what is printed on the oil fill cap.

Engine Oil SE Class SAE 10W40, 10W50, 20W40, 20W50
w/Filter Change 4.0 liter
No Filter Change 3.5 liter
Level On center stand, wait 5 min, middle of window Left side of engine case cover

Final Gear Case Oil
Above 5°C API GL-5 SAE 90
Below 5°C API GL-5 SAE 80
Capacity 0.2 liter
Level Mcy vertical, to bottom thread of filler cap hole left side of rear wheel

Engine oil and trans oil are the same

This is an old thread but just in case you haven't gotten the problem fixed, you need to change the fork oil in your forks. The main reason is to make sure you've got the correct amount in them.

If after changing the oil they're still too spongy, you need to change the oil to a heavier weight oil. Use 30 weight "FORK OIL". Do not use any other type of oil as it may foam. Use fork oil only and in the correct amount. Your owner's manual should tell you how much oil to add.

To drain the oil, there is a plug down near the axle on each fork slider. At the top triple trees, there is a large cap on each fork tube. Take this out and add the proper amount of the proper weight oil. Only do one tube at a time. You may have to get the weight of the bike off the front end.

Drain engine oil and replace oil filter(your local automotive store will have a book telling you what oil filter you need to buy). You've probably been using a multi-grade 10-30 or 10-40 weight oil. Or a straight 30 weight oil. Regardless, replace that oil with one grade heavier, single-weight of oil. During warm months, use 40 weight; in the winter (depending on how far the mercury dips in your part of the country) use 20 or 30 weight. Slightly thicker oil won't hurt that worn engine, and if your battery is good, it'll turn over fast.

O.K. Let's use 20 weight for example. A straight weight oil is just that, a straight 20 weight in viscosity, it doesn't change when it gets hot or is cold, so it won't thin when heated. It will read
sea 20 on the container. A 20/50 has a viscosity that changes when heated. When cold it is a 50 weight, then as it heats up it thins to a 20 weight. A 20/50 might not be too bad to run in this situation, but the viscosity breakdown is quicker with the mixed viscosity oils, so I generally recommend running a straight weight, such as 15 or 20 in the winter, and a 30 or 40 in the summer. Keep in mind that the oil does not thin, so if you have extreme cold in the winter, the car may not start very easy. If it doesn't, then you can go to a thinner oil. In the summer, if you have extreme heat, you can go with a thicker oil if the engine has a little noise, or running hotter than usual. Just remember, the lower the number, the thinner the oil. Running a thicker oil in yours, should cut down on the oil consumption.