Question about 1999 kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja
Hi, I have a Kawasaki ZX6R G2 with new battery fitted fully charged starts the first time but when out for a ride with lights on stop for ten minutes and the engine turns over slowly have to bump it.The next time I stop its all ok starts again the first time would this be a fault with the regulator rectifier can you help please Many thanks [email protected]
Hi, Snake before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
CHARGING PROBLEMS think
HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR...
Kawasaki Ninja ZX 6R Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
Kawasaki Ninja ZX 6R Owner Manual
Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e
Posted on Nov 02, 2017
My first check would be the battery to earth connection...... High resistance is a real no-no - strip, clean, re-attach to frame.
Posted on Nov 02, 2017
Sometimes after trying to start a bike with a weak battery the starter solenoid gets damaged,or loose connections develop on the solenoid due to heat.It should be next to the battery.
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
Sometimes when the battery keeps going dead like that, a component may be creating a current draw. you can do a simple current draw test with a fluke meter by setting the meter to read amps, make sure the test leads are in the proper portals on the fluke for an amp test, and disconnect one of the battery cables and connect the test leads in-line with the battery and cable. It would help to know you have a good fuse inside the fluke. They are easy to blow, and whatever you do, DO NOT try to start the unit with the meter hooked up for the amp draw test. That is how fuses are blown. With the key off, check for any amp draw. If there is, you can start unplugging components until the draw goes away. If there was no draw to begin with, you may have a stator coil (or alternantor, whichever it has) that is weak and can't keep up.
Posted on Jun 11, 2009
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Some articles I have read suggest removing the stock auto-choke carb and replacing it with a Honda CT70 Carb. Check with a local shop to verify, I do not own either and am just passing along the info.
Another solution suggested by 'OneRide': Try it with the gas cap off. The tank vent might be plugged. Possibly plugged fuel filter. Are you using the choke correctly?
This seems to be a very common problem and no 'one' solution to fix it.
I hope this helps.
Posted on Nov 29, 2009
it happened to me and it was the light bulb. someone had changed for a super bright blue. make sure there is no non standard electrical equipment on the bike. Also you only get a year to 18months out of a battery for this bike.
Posted on Apr 14, 2010
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