MY MIXER HAD A LEEKING OIL, I OPEN AND CLEAN IT UP. BUT AFTER I HAD PUT IT BACK AND THE MOTOR NOT RUNNING AT ALL. I DID ADJUST A LITTLE SCREW ON THE BACK OF THE MOTOR BUT AFTER THE MIXER NOT MOVING AT ALL.

The leaking grease has very little to do with it not going, remove the chrome drip ring (yes it's called a drip ring, it is used to catch most of the drips) and clean it out & wipe around the planetary. The oil is separating out of the food grade grease due to age or lack of use or both. Remove & check the carbon brushes under the side caps on the motor. They are keyed so will only work when installed the correct way. You may find the brushes worn out and in need of replacement. Observe which way they come out, one corner is ground off and that is the key. If that is not the problem then you will need to look under the back cover, sometimes there can be a broken or loose wire there.

Hiya,

I am sorry to hear you are having problems with your mixer. To stop the oil leaking from the front of the mixer, you just need to remove the drip ring and give it a good clean underneath and this should stop the oil from leaking out. Below I have added a link and if you watch on the timing "1.28" you will see how to remove the drip ring.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n7813f_z6qM

I hope this helps!

My first guess would be the speed control plate. It has three screws in an upside down triangular shape. The two screws on top control and adjust speeds 1 thru 6, and often times just one screw being out a 16th of a turn will shut the mixer off completely. I would venture that when you were removing the two stud bolts you moved the adjustment screws on the speed control plate. Remember that even a slight movement can shut down your mixer, take a phillips screwdriver and turn the top left screw one quarter turn while the machine is on, it can start on you so don't be shocked and jump with a loaded screwdriver in your hand at the back of an electrical device, stay calm, if no start then try the left screw a quarter turn, if it does not start go to a half turn on each screw, if still no start turn thr screws back to the start place and try the bottom screw a quarter turn left and right, if you do not start by now, then something is wrong in another place, go back to the brushes and take them out and check how you put them in, these are the two most common problems with a no start mixer. If this does not fix your problem or get the mixer to start please come back here with more info. If you motor raced in the first place then I would suspect the phase control board, but when it came back to normal speed it leades me away from the phase board. When the phse control board goes out the mixer only works at high speed. So please let us know so that we can help further.

I'm going to say the first thing to check is the speed governor. You'll see it when you take the rear cap off- it's behind the plate that's mounted on three screws with springs on them. Don't take the plate off, just look behind it from the side at the shaft sticking out of the back of the motor. When you run the mixer and observe the governor you'll see that it moves back as the speed of the mixer increases and forward as the speed decreases.

The governor uses weights and springs to do its job- peek at it, you'll see how it works. If it's a little sticky then the speed will vary up and down at any setting, or it'll just run at max. speed all the time.

A little spray oil applied the the governor will clear up minor sticking problems but if it's too bad then some manual working of the governor will help it to become free and functional again. WD-40 is not the product for this job, it has little value as a lubricant because that's not what it was meant to be- it's meant to displace water. Hence the "WD"..

If you have to take the plate off the back to get to the governor you can easily set it back where it originally was by counting the number of revolutions each screw makes as it comes out. Screw them each back in the same amount and you shouldn't have to monkey around adjusting the thing.

The second thing I'd check is the brushes. Even if they aren't the problem it's good to service brushes occasionally. You want to be sure that they are clean and free in their holders. They're under the odd looking screws right in the center of each side of the motor housing. It's not all that common for brushes to cause varying speed but it can certainly happen and if it is the problem then there will likely be damage occurring. Just pull them out gently, noting the orientation, and visually inspect to see that they're clean and at least 1/4" long. Reinsert them as they came out (it's sort of important to match the curve on the face to the curve of the commutator) and be sure that they move freely all the way to the bottom of their travel. Any reluctance to reach bottom should be addressed with electric motor cleaner and a careful sliding of the brush in and out of the holder until it bottoms firmly and positively against the commutator.

The third likely source of the problem your mixer has is the little circuit board mounted above the governor. It's not meant to be user-serviceable but any appliance/stereo repair shop (if you can find one) can repair it,for you or they can replace it without too much effort. Just be sure that it's the problem before getting into it because it's sort of expensive ($35-50).

Good luck!

lp

on a a200 there is no oil. this mixer requiers grease. if mixer is leaking oil it is because the grease is broken down .you have to pull tpo cover off mixer remove trans. parts clean out old grease clean all trans. parts reassemble put top cover back on .then make sure mixer runs in all 3-speeds before putting 1.5 cans of -47grease back in grease can be bought @any hobart office

First off -- if it's still under warrantee, you'll want to go to kitchenaid.com and find the nearest service center. The next thing I say starts with "void the warrantee" steps. :)

It's very simple to open a stand mixer to see if you've got a simple problem or a bad one.

Unplug it.

Follow the aluminum "Kitchen Aid" band to the back of the unit, there's one main screw. Remove this, and set it aside with the band which should come right off at this point.

Now, there should be two screws on each side of the unit where the band used to be. Remove each of these. They're all identical, so no worries if you mix them up.

Now you can lift the top off of the unit and see inside. The motor is at the back of the unit, the gear box at the front is where the oil is coming from. Try (GENTLY) to tighten the screws that hold the gearbox together. With a little luck, the gearbox screws had come loose and it was oozing oil out through the seals. If they're all firm, then you've got more serious problems and you'll want to find a service center for it.

Good luck!

Leaking of oil in a stand mixer is not necessarily indicative of a large problem.

Kitchenaid stand mixers are overpacked with oil to last the lifetime of the motor. If the motor sits idle for some time (is not used), the oil may begin to drip from the gears and settle. Oil leakage may primarily be seen from around the beater shaft or planetary action.

A stand mixer can lose up to a 1/4 cup of oil before it needs to be serviced.

It is recommended to run the mixer on speed 10 for 2 minutes in order to redistribute oil back into the motor. In order to prevent future occurences, this is recommended to be done every 3 weeks if mixer is not being used.

Part 1. Oiling the model 12:
Anyone can do this part.

On the top of the motor are four places where oil should be applied.
Starting from the speed finder dial and working forward-

There is a small hole on the top of the motor, just in front of the speed dial. Using a wooden skewer or a match, clean the hole out, and apply two drops of good quality sewing machine oil.

On top of the motor, and near and behind the juicer attaching cone is another hole, sort of key-hole shaped. Clean it out and put in one drop of oil only.

Three drops of oil go into the juicer cone. Let them run down the side of the hole.

Next to the juicer cone is another round hole. You may need to turn the handle as in removing the beaters to uncover it. Clean this hole too, and apply another three drops of oil.

Do not apply more oil than specified. It will get into the works where it shouldn't.

The following proceedures assume some mechanical ability. Read first to assess whether you are competent before starting.

After all these years, the gears in the front of the motor housing probably need fresh grease. This is a fibre based food grade grease that can be obtained from most bearing sellers. (I used a non-food grade grease, but I have to watch that the motor doesn't get too hot, and the grease run down the beaters, which can happen in extreme conditions.)

Prepare to get greasy during this proceedure. Latex gloves are an asset for doing this job.

Remove the cover plate in the centre of the front, and then the central screw from the front and pull away the front housing cover and handle. Don't loose the coil spring inside. It goes over the screw you just undid.

Unclip the return spring on the beater ejector, and remove ejector and spring together, slide the ejector down and off the beater spindles, then up and out of the guides..

There are four screws that retain the gear cover. The lower right hand one also retains a wire. Remove the screws, and gently bend the wire so the cover can be removed. There is a gasket underneath. Take care not to break it, it's brittle.

Once the cover is away, the gears and worm shaft are visible. Using a pop stick or old screw driver, remove the grease around the under side of each gear. A square headed set-screw retains each gear. When you find each screw, remove it completely. Turning the worm shaft will make the gears rotate.
Once both screws are out, pull the beater drive shafts downwards and out of the housing, and lift out the gears.
Using pop sticks, paper towels etc, but NOT solvents, clean out the gear space. Remove all the grease possible. A toothbrush is good for cleaning the worm thread. Use someone elses.
Wash the gears and shafts in petrol, kerosene or similar and dry thoroughly.
Reassembly is the above in reverse order, first filling the gear housing with fresh grease.
Grease each drive shaft lightly before refitting. Note the holes for the set screws in the shafts.
The nylon gear goes on the left, brass under the juicer cone.
Fit the nylon gear first, working the shaft upwards until the locating hole in the shaft can be seen through the screw hole in the gear. Fit and tighten the set screw.
Align the brass gear so both screws face forwards at the same time when engaged with the motor worm, to prevent the beaters clashing. You may have to put the brass gear in and out a few times to get the right teeth engaged with the worm shaft. Then slide the shaft in, once again observing the alignment of holes to ensure the set screw locks the gear securely.

Put everything else back in reverse order. Apply a smear of grease for the beater ejector where it slides, and don't forget to put the wire back under it's screw.

Part 2, speed control.

The jerky operation at low speed is probably due to dirty points in the governer. Addressing this involves disassembling the rear end of the motor.
DON'T pull the motor armature out of the housing without first removing the brushes during this proceedure. There's no need to remove the armature, but if you're curious....

Remove the chrome cap from the centre of the speed finder dial. Remove the lock nut from the thrust control screw under the cap. Remove the dial, catching the washer that goes under the nut.
There is a resistor, usually green, and a capacitor, a small aluminium cannister under the dial. Gently pry the retaining legs away from one end of each and remove them. Note which one goes where so you can put them back correctly. Marking with a felt pen is a good idea.

Now are visible two slotted screws. Remove these screws and pull the governer housing back and away from the motor. Note the pin with a plastic head, and remember to put it back when reassembling the same way around.

Locate and clean the points with a slip of soft wood and metal polish. Clean away the polish thoroughly. Do not use emery paper, it will make the points arc, and speed control will be worse than now.

Put everything back the way it came off.

To reset the governer, leave the locknut on the thrust controling screw loose. Set the speed control to position 1. Whilst pressing the dial home with one hand, screw the thrust screw in or outwards until the motor just starts to run, and lock the screw by tightening the nut. Test the control for full range, and tweak by slightly altering the thrust screw position as required. Getting the speeds just right first go is usually a fluke.

Replace the chrome cap and you're done.

You can put in a all purpose grease. I use MOBIL 1 Synthetic Grease (RED IN COLOR) and it works fine -- you will need 3 tubs of 16oz's each tub. The cost is 30.00 or so. Make sure to get all of the old grease out and pack around each of the trans and worm shafts with the grease, then pack around the MOTOR GEAR and then put all back together. While running it make sure you can see the grease and hear the noise of the mixer through the 2 caps that are FILL caps on the head of the mixer. ALSO, you will find that you will lose 1st gear IF you have tigtened down too much on the LOCK nut, SOOOO loosen in small increments until all 3 gears are perfect and strong. ALSO, the key to noise adjustment is to Tighten (WHILE MIXER IS RUNNING) slowly the large nut that controls pressure on the worm transmission. The general rule with tigtening this nut is to tighten it till it will not tighten and then back off the nut -- IF the unit when starting does not run or it seems bound up when you first turn it back on, THEN you have tightened it TOO MUCH, SOOO back it off again (loosen it) until it starts smoothly and when you turn the mixer OFF it should come to a slow stop and not abruptly stop the mixer. Hope this helps some of you out there trying to do your own adjustments --

You should be able to purchase the manual. I know that Hobart abandoned that policy a few years back -- unless they re-instated it. Call Mother Hobart and ask. 937-332-3000

There is a few tricks to these units, it would be tough to convey here. But here goes...

Remove back cover. Loosen 6 or 7 screws around outside of motor windings. Thump the nose of the mixer downward to break the seal. Watch for spacer washers where shafts go into motor case. Remove spring. Remove idler. Remove shifting guide. Remove gear assy. Leave beveled gears in place if possible. Clean. Use Darina II grease. (20 oz) Clean and permatex "seal". Tighten mounting bolts. Adjust set screw at back of planetary. (Double set screw. The first one is to lock the adjustment.) Test in 1st and then 3rd while turning the set screw. You just make it quiet for a proper adjustment.

Good luck -- Mike