Can you restore the brushed aluminum front fork lower tubes from road nicks

What sort of problem? Are they adjustable? Have you adjusted them? If they're too springy, try slightly thicker oil.
If the seals are torn, replace them and ensure there are no nicks in the tubes - that's sometimes saved with very fine grit sandpaper to polish out the nicks.

Depends on how much rebuilding you want to do.
See below:

FRONT FORK 2.16
CHANGING FORK OIL On a 2010 Touring Motorcycle 41 mm Fork
If only replacing the fork oil remove the for, clamp a fork holder tool in a vise in a horizontal position and with the fork cap bolt topside securely clamp the fork into the tool, remove the fork cap bolt, remove and discard the quad ring seal, carefully remove the fork tube plug from the fork tube and because it is under strong spring pressure have and maintain a firm grasp on the plug as the last thread is turned because it will want to fly upwards under the spring pressure, remove and discard the O-ring fork tube plug o-ring, remove the fork spring from the fork tube, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool, being aware that the damper valve if one is installed (All touring models, with the exception of Road King, have a damper valve type fork on both the left and right sides. Road King uses the conventional type fork on both sides.) will fall out when the fork tube is inverted for draining turn the fork upside down and drain the fork oil into a suitable drain pan while slowly pumping the fork tube and slider at least ten times and then allow about 10-15 minutes for the fork assembly to completely drain. THEN with the fork tube right-side-up securely clamp the fork slider (not the fork tube) into the fork tube holder, install the drain plug at the bottom of the fork slider, if it had been removed and tighten the plug to 72-96 in-lbs (8-11 Nm).

MODEL FORK TYPE AMOUNT
OZ. ML IN. MM
All models Damper Valve 10.7 317 4.92 125
Except FLHR/C
FLHR/C Conventional 11.0 325 4.92 125

Pour slightly more Harley-Davidson Type E Fork Oil directly into the fork tube than is specified for the fork type, slowly pump the fork tube until some resistance is felt and then pump a few more times and then for all models except FLHR/C (i.e. for damper valve type forks), install a new wear ring in its groove in the damper valve, with the wear ring at the bottom (spring side up) slide the damper valve into the fork tube, install the fork spring into the fork tube, use the fork spring to push the damper valve to the bottom of the fork tube, remove the fork spring from the fork tube, slowly pump the fork tube a few more times to eliminate air from the damper valve, adjust the ring of a fork level gauge 4.92 inches or 125mm and then with the fork tube bottomed in the fork slider insert the tube of the gauge into the fork slider until the metal ring rests flat on the top of the fork tube and use the gauge plunger to draw oil from fork (if no oil is drawn out, add a small amount to the fork tube and repeat the process) until the oil level is at the specified level in the fork slider, install the fork spring into the fork tube with the tighter wound coils at the bottom, remove the fork slider from the fork tube holder tool, clamp fork tube into the fork tube holder tool, install a newO-ring onto the fork tube plug, install the fork tube plug into the fork tube and tighten it to 60-70 ft-lbs (81.4-94.9 Nm), install a newquad ring seal onto the fork cap bolt and install it into the fork tube plug to prevent loss of fork oil while working further with it. THEN on right side fork, loosely install the axle holder with its flat
washers, lockwashers and nuts, install the fork and assemble the motorcycle.

To remove a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRSTraise the front wheel, remove the front wheel, remove the front fender, and for FLHR/C remove the headlamp nacelle. And for FLHX, FLHT/C/U, FLHTK remove inner fairing cap, and for FLTRX remove the instrument nacelle, loosen the fork cap bolt, but do not
remove it at this time, loosen the pinch bolt but do not remove it, hold the fork slider to prevent the fork from dropping, remove the fork cap bolt from the fork tube plug, slide the fork tube down to remove. And loosely install the fork cap bolt to prevent loss of fork oil while working with the fork.

DISASSEMBLY
To disassemble a 2010 Touring 41mm fork assembly FIRST remove the fork assembly, the right side fork remove the axle holder from the end of the fork slider, drain the fork, install the fork spring into the fork tube, place a shop cloth or towel on the floor, turn the fork assembly upside down, press the end of the spring against the shop cloth or towel to prevent rotation of the damper tube and remove the metric screw from the end of the fork slider with an air impact wrench, discard the screw and copper washer, remove the fork spring, the damper valve (if equipped) and the damper tube from the fork tube, remove the wear ring and rebound spring from the damper tube, remove the wear ring from the damper valve, (if equipped), remove the retaining clip using an appropriate pick tool, remove the fork tube from the fork slider by using the fork tube as a slide hammer tool, slide the fork oil seal, the slider spacer and the slider bushing off from the end of the fork tube, discard the fork oil seal and the slider bushing, gently pry at the split line to expand the fork leg bushing and remove it from its groove at the end of the fork tube, discard the fork leg bushing and remove the lower stop from fork the slider.

CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Thoroughly clean and inspect all parts and replace any parts that are corroded, bent, inoperative or otherwise obviously damaged, inspect the fork cap bolt quad ring seal and the fork tube plug o-ring for cuts, tears or signs of deterioration and replace if and as necessary, replace the retaining clip if is bent or distorted, check the slider and the fork leg bushings for scratches or excessive wear and always replace bushings in a set if either bushing needs to be replaced, check both the fork tube and the fork slider for scoring, scratches and excessive or abnormal wear and replace parts if and as required, set the fork tube on V-blocks and measure its runout using a dial indicator gauge and replace it if the runout exceeds 0.008 in. (0.2 mm), inspect the upper fork spring and the rebound spring for damage or distortion, and replace the upper fork spring if its free length is less than19.27 in. (489.4 mm) for Non-Fairing Models and 18.73 in. (475.7 mm) for Fairing Models and replace the rebound spring if its free length is less than 0.938 in. (23.8 mm) or any time the upper fork spring is replaced.

ASSEMBLY
To assemble a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRST coat the ID of the fork leg bushing with clean fork oil, expand the fork leg bushing at the split line only enough to slip it over the end of the fork tube and into its groove on the fork tube, install a newwear ring into the groove at the top of the damper tube, install the rebound spring on the opposite end, with the wear ring topside slide the damper tube into the fork tube so that the tube end drops through the hole at the bottom of the fork tube, install the lower stop at the end of the damper tube, install the fork slider into the fork tube holder tool, slide the fork tube into the fork slider, coat the ID of the slider bushing with clean fork oil, slide the slider bushing down the fork tube, slide a 41 mm fork seal installer tool down the fork tube and using the it as a slide hammer drive the slider bushing into the counterbore of the fork slider, then remove the tool, place masking tape over edge of the fork tube to avoid damaging the lip of the fork oil seal during installation, coat the ID ofa new fork oil seal with clean new fork oil, then with the lip garter spring side facing down toward the fork slider slide the seal down the fork tube until it contacts the slider spacer, remove the masking tape from the edge of the fork tube and using the 41 mm fork seal installer tool as a slide hammer, drive the fork oil seal down the fork tube until the retaining clip groove is visible above the seal in the ID of the fork slider, remove the tool, install the retaining clip in the groove, install the fork spring into fork the fork tube, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool, place a shop cloth or towel on the floor, turn the fork assembly upside down and press the end of the spring against the shop cloth or towel to prevent rotation of the damper tube, install a new screw and a new copper washer at the bottom of the fork slider and while compressing the spring tighten the screw to 132-216 in lbs(14.9-24.4 Nm), remove the fork spring from the fork tube, fill the fork with fork oil to the specified amount and complete assembly of the fork. On the right side fork, loosely install the axle holder with its flat
washers, lockwashers and nuts.

INSTALLATION
To install a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRST remove the fork cap bolt, slide the fork tube up and into the slider cover, lower the fork bracket, the fork stop, and the upper fork bracket, install the fork cap bolt, install the pinch bolt and lockwasher into the lower fork bracket and tighten the pinch bolt to 53-57 ft-lbs(71.9-77.3 Nm), tighten the fork cap bolt to 60-70 ft-lbs (81.4-94.9 Nm) and repeat these steps on the other fork, install the front fender and wheel, and for FLHR/C install the headlamp nacelle, for FLHX, FLHT/C/U, FLHTK install the fairing inner cap and for FLTRX install the instrument nacelle.

Assuming you have slackened off the fork top nut before removing the fork from the bike,and you have removed the screw in the fork lower, this secures the damper into the fork, next you will have removed the dust cover and seal retaining clip from the top of the leg, undo the fork top nut completly and remove the spring noteing which end of the spring is at the top, for replacment purposes.
Next fasten the lower of the fork into a vice on the flat ( not tubular surface of the fork leg) push the stancion all the way down to the bottom of the leg, then pull up sharply, repeating this in/out action to hammer out the seal from the leg until the seal/ bushes/ and washer have come out, this mat take some quick action movments to remove or separate the leg, forks which have not been appart in some time may need some heat on the fork seal. ARea of the lower leg

jacke the front of the cycle up under the motor with the cycle on the center stand. The first thing you do after removing the front wheel and axle is to reach up into the lower fork tube with a hex key and loosen the socket cap that holds the tubes to the lower tubes. After the socket cap has been put back in loosely, you can now unspring the fork top caps. The spring pressure from the top caps is necessary to loosen the lower socket screw. The upper and lower triple clamps are the best way to hold on to the fork tubes. The tubes never have to be removed form the clamps. After you unspring the tops , remove the lossened socket caps from the bottom of the forks and slide the lowers off the tubes.

There are two ways to change out the lower sliders on your bike. One, remove the entire fork tube from the steering head and the other, simply remove and replace the lower slider. There really isn't that much difference and I prefer to remove the entire fork tube myself.

First you'll have to get your bike off the gound and stable. Then remove the front wheel, the front brake and the front fender. Remove the windshield, light bar, and nachelle.

Once you get everything out of the way, here's where you can go two different routes. In one, you loosen the clamp bolt at the lower triple tree and remove the top cap of the fork. Spray a bit of penetrating oil around the fork tube in the lower tree and start working the tube out. Once the tube is out, remove the top plug and spring. Turn the fork tube upside down and empty the oil out of it and remove the spring. Look at the spring. It's tapered on one end, make sure you put this end in first when you reassemble the tube. With the fork tube upside down, look at the bottom end of the slider where the axle goes through. You'll see a single 8mm bolt. Remove this bolt and the slider will come off.

In the other method, you do it the same way except you don't remove the fork tube from the triple. You remove the top cap and the tube plug. Remove the drain plug and drain the oil out of the fork tube. Remove the screw and remove the lower slider. It is quite a bit messier as all the oil is not out of the slider when you take it off.

When you reassemble, make sure you use the proper quantity of oil in each leg. You will see a "wet" and "dry" measurement. Use the "dry" measurement since you disassembled the fork. I do not have the quantity of oil you should use for your model. A dealer should be able to tell you.

Good Luck
Steve

If you're talking about changing the right side "Cow bell" that is the stainless cover about eight inches long just below the nachelle, you have to take the right side fork out. Take the front wheel, brakes, and fender off, remove the nachelle and loosen the bolts that hold the fork tube on. Slide the fork tube out of the triple trees. Then there are two bolts up inside the "cow bell" that hold it onto the lower triple tree.

Good Luck
steve

If all you want to do it replace your fork seals, if you can find a way to jack the bike high enough, you don't have the fork tubes our ot the triple trees. Work with on fork tube at a time. Raise the bike up off the ground and take the front wheel and fender off. Brake caliper off it's tube. Now raise the bike up to where you've got about a foot of clearance below the lowest point of the slider. Look underneath the slider where the axle goes through and you'll see an 8mm bolt. Take this bolt out and your lower slider will come off. The fork oil will start to drain as soon as you take the bolt loose as well. Leave a pan under the upper fork while you work on the lower to catch the dripping oil. Replace the fork seal and reassemble that tube. Then, do the next one. Now, refill the tube with the correct amount of the correct oil from the top by removing the top cap nut. Pour in the correct amount of oil for a "wet" refill. The thicker the viscosity of the oil, the firmer the front fork action. I think they came with H-D type E which seems to be a bit softer action than 30 weight fork oil. Make sure you use fork oil. Regular engine oil or transmission oil should not be used and it will foam if you're riding down a rough road and your forks will collapse and not work until the oil settles again. Not a pleasant feeling. It's really doubtful if you'll get anywhere that is that rough with your Harley.

Good Luck
Steve

First of all do not add oil to your front forks with out draining them first. If you over fill your forks with oil you will damage your forks. To change your oil in your forks, first center stand the bike and lift the front wheel by putting a jack under the motor. Remove the front wheel and axle and put a pie tin under the fork tube. Reach up into the bottom of the fork tube with a hex key and loosen the screw but do not remove. Now take the air pressure cross over tube off, this will allow you to unscrew the fork tops( On some bikes you may have to put a towel on the tank and unbolt the handle bars to get them out of the way.). Pull the screws out of the bottom of the forks and gently pull down the oil should come out now. If you need new fork seals take the lower tubes off and replace(You may need to take off the fender and hang the calipers with wires.). Turn the lowers over and dump out the oil and reinstall fork lowers. Snug up screws and sealing washers on the bottom of forks you can not tighten till you put on fork tops. Now pour in measured amount of oil, again do not over fill. Put on fork tops and air crossover tube. Now tighten screws on bottom of fork. Finish reassembling bike.

Mercill, You are talking of the front shockers which are bolted at the top and at the bottom and what you talk of is supporting them at the middle. So, please do not try to remove it. Firstly you may not be able to do it and secondly as it is supporting the front shocker in the middle, the shockers may collapse/go haywire.

Loosen the front fender, the axle retaining bolts, plus the upper and lower headstock bolts and nuts so that the whole assembly is free to align. Tighten the fender last. If that doesn't restore wheel alignment, you may have bent tubes that need straightening or replacement. Was the bike in a front-end wreck?