Well I removed the clutch casing. I wasn't to sure what I was looking for. The nuts on the clutch plate where not loose though the timing chain was "to me " very tight also the plastic guide bar did move a little . Any other suggestions pt2000vn800 I heard the bearings near the center of the clutch may need repalacing how could I tell that? " help"

First of all, make sure the saw is off. Also, before removing bolts, make sure the chain brake is not engaged (the chain should move freely).
Remove the guide bar side panel. Using a scwrench or wrench, unscrew the nuts and remove the plate to access the chain.

The side plate on most chainsaws will be held on by two nuts. Loosen the blade adjustment screw (a pin that is usually driven by a screw and pushes the blade out from the chainsaw to keep the chain tension tight).

The old chain is ready to be removed now that the sprocket plate is off of the saw. Pull the nose of the chainsaw's bar away from the chainsaw to release it from the tensioner.

Remove the old chainsaw chain.

The chain will easily remove from the guide bar with all that slack in it. Note the orientation of the cutting edges of the chain so you put the new one on the same way.

Pull the drive links out of the guide bar and slip the other end of the chain around the clutch drum.

Steps to Install a New Chainsaw Chain
Thread the new chain onto the saw.

Carefully thread your new or recently sharpened chainsaw chain around the chainsaw's clutch drum, making sure that the drive links engage in the sprocket.

Thread the rest of the drive links into the guide bar and around its nose, making sure all links are in the guide bar slot.
Align the guide bar.

With the chain properly threaded along the clutch drum and guide bar, put some tension into it by pulling on the nose of the guide bar away from the chainsaw.

While pulling the guide bar, make sure to seat it onto the saw's adjustment pin.

Replace the side plate.

The side plate is ready to go back on as long as the guide bar is properly positioned beneath.

Replace the plate and the nuts that hold it into position, but do not tighten the nuts down all the way yet. The guide bar must be allowed to move a little while the chain is tightened to the correct tension.
Tighten the chain to the correct tension. Use the tensioning screw to the side of the guide bar to adjust the tension on the chainsaw chain.

Finish tightening the side plate nuts.

The chainsaw chain replacement is now complete.


And here is a great overall reference guide to keeping a chainsaw sharp and running. Sharpening a chainsaw chain is a great way to extend the life and is less expensive and easier than replacing a chain. There are small grinding tools (like a dremel) that can be run off a small 12v battery or your vehicle battery that allow for quick 'tune-ups' on your chain if you are out cutting and need to sharpen your chain.
http://www.pcta.org/pdf/STUCHAP2_web.pdf

Disconnect the battery. Drain the primary oil and remove the outer primary cover. Remove the four bolts that hold the clutch spring in. Remove the clutch spring and pressure plate. Then, you can remove the friction and steel plates. If you want to remove the entire clutch assembly, you'll have to remove the nut from the transmission mainshaft and remove the sprocket shaft nut. The mainshaft nut that holds the clutch assembly on has LEFT-HANDED THREADS. Once you get the nut off, you'll need a clutch puller to get the clutch assembly off the tapered transmission mainshaft. Get one of the pullers that screw onto the mainshaft and you rap it with a hammer. You do not have to disassemble the clutch assembly completely to remove it from the mainshaft. You can take it off as a unit by removing the snap ring in the center and removing the adjuster plate. Remove the sprocket shaft nut, the chain adjuster nut, and the mainshaft nut and remove the engine sprocket, primary chain and clutch assembly all together.

Good Luck
steve

Now, if you wish to remove the clutch as a unit, disconnect the battery. Drain the primary case. Remove the primary cover. Take the compensator sprocket nut off. Take the nut off the primary chain adjuster. Now, take the snap right out of the clutch release plate and remove the plate. You'll have to take the nut off the mainshaft that holds the clutch assembly on. It has LEFT HANDED THREADS. Then you need a puller to get the clutch assembly off the tapered shaft, Custom Chrome 20269, $30 and a "locking bar" to keep the engine from turning while you torque the nuts, Custom Chrome 20825,$26. You can then disassemble the clutch and you'll need a press to press the inner clutch hub out of the outer clutch hub.

Then compensator sprocket nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds and the clutch mainshaft nut torques to 60-80 foot pounds LEFT HANDED. Put one line of Loctite 271 red in each nut. You will need a torque wrench that will torque in the reverse direction. All torque wrenches won't do that.

Good Luck
Steve

I'm going to assume that you are talking about how to remove the engine sprocket from the sprocket shaft in the primary cover.

First, disconnect the battery and drain the primary. Look underneath the primary and loosen the locknut for the primary chain adjuster and loosen the primary chain by turning the screw outwards a few turns.

Then take the derby cover off the primary and remove the spring and locknut for the clutch adjustment. Remove the screws from around the primary and break it loose from the engine. Turn the clutch adjustment screw clockwise while removing the primary cover. Lay the primary cover aside.

Now, there is a plate in the center of the clutch assembly held in with a circlip. Remove the circlip. Now you'll need either an air wrench or a locking bar to lock the primary to prevent it from turning so you can get the clutch hub nut and the engine sprocket nut off. The engine nut has right hand threads and comes off normally. The clutch hub nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS and you must turn it in reverse. Once you get the two nuts off, you can usually grab the engine sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift those two units and the chain off at once. Sometimes you may need a puller to get the engine sprocket off but usually it just comes right off.

Installation is the reverse with the engine nut being torques to 150 foot pounds and the clutch hub nut torqued to 60 foot pounds left handed.

Good Luck
Steve

View the first 1:15 of this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdqkIuVNUQc
Install the new chain like this:

Chain Adjustment

1. Make sure the chain brake is off (gloves will protest your fingers).
2. If necessary, loosen the bar nuts that are clamping the clutch cover in place (or whatever holds the clutch cover and bar on). They don't need these really loose - finger tight will do.
3. Ease the tension adjustment until the chain is obviously loose.
4. Using one hand, hold the nose of the bar up.
5. While holding the nose up, adjust the tensioner so that the center of the chain just touches the underside of the bar, add a touch more.
6. Continue holding the nose of the bar up & tighten up the bar nuts / bolts / quick-release system. HTH

Lou
Yours is electric there are probably a few differences but the process is very similar.

Put it over the sprocket first, then work your way right putting it into the bar grove as you go, the nose last. Grasp and pull the bar right the chain should rise into grove, you may need to help. Loosen the chain tensioner some put the clutch cover on and tighten the bar nuts finger tight.
Chain adjustment

1. Make sure the chain brake is off (gloves will protest your fingers).
2. If necessary, loosen the nuts that are clamping the guide bar in place (or whatever your saw uses to hold the side plate and bar on with). We don't need these really loose - just finger tight will do.
3. Ease the tension until the chain is obviously loose.
4. Using one hand, hold the nose of the bar up.
5. Now, while holding the nose up, adjust the tension so that the chain just touches the underside of the bar.
6. Continue holding the nose of the bar up & tighten up the side plate nuts / bolts / quick-release system.

Look at the saw body from the nose of the bar, Just to the left of the bar a slotted screw head should be visible (on clutch cover). That is your tension adjustment.

Chain adjustment

1. Make sure the chain brake is off (gloves will protest your fingers).
2. If necessary, loosen the nut that is clamping the guide bar in place (or whatever your saw uses to hold the side plate and bar on with). We don't need these really loose - just finger tight will do.
3. Ease the tension until the chain is obviously loose.
4. Using one hand, hold the nose of the bar up.
5. Now, while holding the nose up, adjust the tension so that the chain just touches the underside of the bar then just a little more.
6. Continue holding the nose of the bar up & tighten up the clutch cover nut.

This will be quite an involved process, just to let you know. If you have a motorcycle lift or can borrow one it makes things so much easier.
The first thing to do is drain all the oil out of your primary. Next remove the bolts from the primary, noting which ones went where as there are short and long bolts. Next under neath the primary is the adjustment for the chain tensioner. Loosen the jam nut, then unscrew the adjuster. Remove the primary cover gently, you may have to tap on it with a rubber hammer to get it loose. While removing be careful not to pull the 2 pins out of the inner primary, the are for alignment. Now you need to remove all the gasket material from the primary and the inner primary. Remove the retaining clip off you clutch hub. This is the one right where your clutch adjustment is. Once removed just pull your adjuster nut and adjuster threaded shaft out. Okay here is the fun part, in order to remove the chain you must remove both the front sproket and the rear clutch basket, etc. But before you can do this you must lock the chain from moving, Harley makes a tool for this or if you are very careful and I do mean very careful, you can take a large screwdriver and wrap it in an old T-shirt, place the wrapped screwdriver between the chain and top of the clutch sprocket. You must always lock the top of the chain NEVER the bottom. Okay the nut on your clutch assembly is reverse threaded, so while the chain is locked you turn the nut clockwise to loosen. Once lossened go to the front sprocket and repeat process, this nut is standard thread, and on tightly. Loosen this nut, then go to your chain tensioner and loosen the nut holding it on, and lower it as far as possible. remove both the nuts from the front sprocket and clutch. On the front sproket there are some items you just pull off the shaft and leave the sprocket. Note the order of removing. Okay now pull both the front sprocket and the clutch off at the same time avoiding the chain tensioner.
Now this is just advice not a must do. Inspect your sprockets for wear, if they need replacing by all means replace them...yes they are expensive...so are tow trucks! Also on some 1999-2000 models the OEM chain tension could and would fail, this doesn't make for a bad day, but a REALLY bad week! My point for about a $100 you can replace the OEM tension with the Harley auto adjusting one.
Now you are ready to replace the chain and put the sprockets back on. You should use the red loctite(sp?) on both nuts, your front nut should be tighten to 150-165 ft./lbs and the rear 50-65 ft./lbs check that number for the rear before you put it back together I may be incorrect. Once you have those tightened up put your chain tension back in the proper position. Now would be a good time to make the adjustment. Place you clutch retaining plate and adjuster, then put the retain clip back in, adjust clutch. Replace gasket for primary, install primary, remove inspection plate, put oil in, bolt plate back on.
Start it up, check for leaks, all cool, get some time in the wind.
Hope this helps,

JP

remove drive belt then aquire the clutch removal tool from Auto zone or Napa, there is a specific puller designed to remove this clutch,in some cases in order to hold the pulley while removing center nut or bolt you must use a chain wrench with an old leather belt wraped around the pulley to protect the v-ribs on pulley in order to get the pulley bolt or nut loose the clutch will just turn when trying to loosen center nut if you don't use the chain wrench to hold it, after removing said nut or bolt attach the puller to the clutch and while holding it stationary with the chain wrench proceed to turn the shaft of the puller to remove the clutch, it should pop free after a couple of turns with a socket wrench of the appropriate size. PS use the chain wrench ($22.00 Auto zone) only in the corerect direction it does not clamp effectively either direction. also sometimes there is special holding tool for certain clutches, consult Napa or the dealer before buying the chain wrench it may not be effective in holding the clutch while trying to remove center bolt.

the flywheel does not have a brake,the clutch side has the break.if you have the chain side cover off the brake is no longer on the clutch drum.the fly wheel is on the oppiset side (starter rewind).take the starter rewind off and see if the motor will turn.if hte motor turns the problem is in the clutch side.if it doesn't the problem is in the flywheel side.the ignition coil has been known to loosen up.the screws streitch out from heat.check the air gap between the flywheel magnets and the ignition coil.should be .10 to .12 inches.if problem is on clutch side check to make sure that the springs are on between the clutch discs.they have been known to break and that does not let the chain spin on bar.any questions get me an e mail