I have a problem that is pretty frustrating and I was hoping someone might have a solution.
I bought a 2006 Classic (my first bike) a few months ago and it already had a hypercharger and V&H short shots on it. However, the owner who did those mods didn't rejet. When I bought the bike it was running fine but wasn't taking advantage of the mods.
Recently I had a problem where the bike would idle OK, but as soon as I gave it some gas it would lose power and sounded like a lawnmower. I figured then would be a good time to rejet, so I did it according to the instructions:
- 3.5 turns on PMS screws - adjustable needle to 5th position - changed main jets to suggested size - zip tied the vent hose forward under the petcock - did carb sync
The float bowls were really gummed up and I cleaned them out. I also put in a can of Seafoam to try and clear things up.
Now the bike runs great most of the time, but occasionally at higher RPMs it will either stall completely or it will go back to sounding like a lawnmower and have very little power. This will happen for about 5 minutes or so, then it will go back to running well. It was scary because it completely stalled out on the freeway once.
I'm going to go back in and try to clean the jets more but is there anything else that I can try? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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The 2006 Volvo is electronically limited to 250 km/h. It also goes from 100km/h in 6 seconds!--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- FGTech Galletto 2-Master EOBD2
I have just worked on a 2003 ttr90 for a friend and had a similar problem. when I got the bike it had set up for a few years so the fuel system was wrecked. after a thorough cleaning the bike would run fine up to about 3500rpm. then it would cut out much like a rev limiter. it was very consistant and I read some forums but none said anything about a rev limiter. I had also installed a carb kit. I decided to remove the carb and try again. I figured it was lacking fuel in the upper rpms so I raised the throttle cylinder needle as high as it would go. there are 3 notches to set it. the factory setting was in the middle. after I raised the needle it ran like new and turned through the rpm range perfectly. hope this helps someone.
if its valve chatter you will hear it just under the valve cover pretty pronounced, but usually valve chatter gets quieter as the bike warms up, you might look into your cam chain adjuster those get loud and chatty at higher rpms.
Well the glowing red header pipe and the fact that its hard to start is a pretty good sighn that your VALVES need adjusted.on a four stroke bike you have to adjust the valves about every 6 months to a year( and more often if you run it at high RPMs alot) i have both 2-strokes and 4-strokes bikes and have had this same problem with my 4-strokes(honda&yamaha) if you get a manuel and are somewhat mechanicaly inclined you can adjust them your self but if your not, i would take it in and have it done because if not done properly its easy to bend or break a valve( and i think yours has 4 valves.2-intake and 2-exhaust) And head work is not cheep!!!! but a adjustment on the valves is!!!!! good luck....
You can adjust it by slackening the cable...unless it has hydraulic operation....Otherwise get it replaced before you do more damage..ie clutch dust and debris in the oil, so dont forget the oil and filter change too.
check the idle adjusment i had this isssue on my bike where i accidntly lowered the idle didnt know it, but when i started up after bring the choke down the idle needle would bounce and sound like it was about to cut off, i just adjusted the idle i little higher and i was all good after that. I had a 2006 ZZR 600