Front suspension must be refilled with oil, how to do it?

Your front spring rate and fluid is most likely set for city riding. For softer sealed roads.
From what I can search, it looks like it is 10W oil. Maybe go up to 15W fork oil and see if that stiffens it up enough. Don't go for the highest rating,as you'll just cause damage and possibly injure yourself in the process. Always do it incrementally.

You may not have enough oil in the front forks or you may been a heavier viscosity of oil. I'm sorry but I don't have the oil capacity for your "Low Sportster". All I have is for "Hugger" models. They take 10.7oz. "wet" and 12.1 "dry". The difference between "wet" and "dry" is that if you simply drain and refill the front forks, it's call a "wet" oil change. If you disassemble and clean the forks of all oil inside, it's called a "dry" oil change. Contact the service department of your local shop and ask them how much oil goes in the front fork. To change the oil, there is usually a small screw in the trailing side of the lower fork slider down near the axle. Take these out and the oil will drain to a certain degree. Hold the brake while working the forks up and down with your weight to get all the oil that draining will get out of them. If you want all the oil out, you'll have to disassemble the fork tube. I would not do this if the seals are not leaking. Replace the screws in the sliders and then remove the top cap from one tube at the time and refill the tube with the specified amount of oil. Sometimes, the top caps can be difficult to get back in due to the pressure of the large spring in the front fork tubes. You may need a tool to compress the sping. I'm not sure on the "Low" model. I've always managed to the top caps back in without any special tool but I've never done a "Low" model bike. Harley uses what they call their "Type E" fork oil. I do not know what the viscosity of this oil is so I always use PJ-1 30 weight fork oil for most applications. Use only fork oil as any other oil may have a tendency to foam thereby negating any dampening action of the forks. If this doesn't solve your problem, you may want to check into changing the springs in the front forks. Progressive Suspension and others make kits for this.

Good Luck
Steve

For the bottoming out, change the fork oil to a higher viscosity grade. Also, if your shocks have been leaking oil as seen by dirty, greasy fork tubes, you should change the fork seals. If leaking, and if bottoming is only recent, you can refill with the fork oil viscosity recommended originally (you may just be empty). Only increase oil by 5 wt at a time. I don't remember what the factory recommends but should be in your manual.

1994-96 VEHICLES
( see Figures 6 and 7 / click image for zoom )

Fig. 6: Oil pan mounting bolt locations-1996 3.1L engine shown

Fig. 7: Oil pan sealant application points-1996 3.1L engine shown

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
   

It may be necessary to remove the hood, with the help of an assistant, for access.

1. Remove the engine mount strut and A/C compressor (if equipped) and the engine mount strut bracket assemblies.
   
2. Remove the electric cooling fan assemblies. -28467 and J 26462, or equivalent.
   
3. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Drain the engine oil.
   
4. Remove the front exhaust manifold pipe.
   
5. Remove the intermediate shaft bolt/screw.
   
6. Remove the oil level sensor.
   
7. Remove the engine splash shield.
   
8. Suitable support the drivetrain and front suspension with jack stands.
   
9. Remove the transaxle mount side frame retaining nuts from the drivetrain and suspension frame assembly.
   
10. Remove the engine mount side frame nuts from the drivetrain and suspension frame assembly.
    
11. Unfasten the rear drivetrain and front suspension frame bolts/screws.
    
12. If equipped, remove the lower drivetrain and front suspension frame bolts/screws.
    
13. Remove the engine mount assembly.
    
14. Remove the flywheel inspection cover.
    
15. Remove the starter.
    
16. Disconnect the transaxle mount assembly from the oil pan.
    
17. Unfasten the side bolts and screws and the retaining bolts and screws, then remove the oil pan. Remove and discard the oil pan gasket.

To install:

1. Clean the gasket mating surfaces.
   
2. Apply a small amount of sealer on either side of the rear main bearing cap, where the seal surface on the cap meets the cylinder block. Install a new gasket on the oil pan.
   
3. Position the oil pan and secure with the retaining bolts and screws. Tighten the retaining bolts and screws to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) and the side bolts/screws using tool J 39505 or equivalent.
   
4. Fasten the transaxle mount assembly to the oil pan.
   
5. Install the starter motor.
   
6. Install the flywheel inspection cover.
   
7. Install the engine mount assembly.
   
8. Carefully raise the drivetrain and front suspension assembly. Install the rear drivetrain and front suspension frame bolts/screws.
   
9. Fasten the engine mount frame side nuts to the drivetrain and front suspension frame assembly. Install the transaxle mount frame side nuts to the drivetrain and suspension frame assembly.
   
10. Remove the jackstands from the drivetrain and front suspension frame assembly.
    
11. Install the engine splash shield and the oil level sensor.
    
12. Install the intermediate steering shaft bolt/screw. Connect the front exhaust manifold pipe.
    
13. Carefully lower the vehicle.
    
14. Remove the engine support tools.
    
15. Install the electric cooling fan assemblies.
    
16. Install the engine mount strut and A/C compressor, bracket and the engine mount strut bracket.
    
17. If removed, install the hood assembly.
    
18. Fill the crankcase to the correct level. Connect the negative battery cable. Run the engine to normal operating temperature and check for leaks.

Hope this helps (remember to rate this answer).

Yes your fluid may need to be changed if you want a more firm front end. I don't know what type of fluid you have in the forks now but what you need to do is to go with a thicker oil. In my '94 FXDWG, I went to PJ1 30 weight oil. Since I don't have a book on your late model bike, I can't tell you how much oil to put into each tube. There is a "wet" and a "dry" quantity to add when you've drained them. If you simply drain the oil and refill the fork tubes, use the "wet" quantity of oil. If you disassemble and clean the tubes out, use the "dry" quantity when you refill.

To drain the oil, look on the trailing side of the fork sliders. You'll see a screw or a set screw in the slider. Take this plug out and some of the oil will simply flow out. To get all of it out, hold the front brake and push down on the handlebars. Now, oil will spray everywhere so don't do this job in your living room. Once you get the oil out of both tubes, reinstall the plugs and refill the tubes one at the time by removing the top cap out of the tube and pouring the prescribed amount of oil into each fork tube. Ride the bike and see if the front suspension is too soft, too firm, or just right. Remember, the heavier the viscosity of the oil, the more firm the front suspension is. If you can't get it right, you might want to consider changing the springs in the fork tubes.

Good Luck
Steve

If you are saying that your front suspension is too soft, you can change the fork oil in the front forks to a heavier viscosity. I think Harley recommends Type E fork oil. I've found that PJB 30 wt. fork oil works best for me.

Since I'm not familiar with the newer forks, I'll have to recommend that you ask the dealer how to drain and refill the forks and how much oil to put back in them. There are usually two amounts of oil to put in the forks. One amount is a "dry" amount to add when you disassemble the forks and then refill them. The "wet" amount is for when you simply drain the forks and then refill them. Naturally, the "wet" amount will be less than the "dry" amount.

Sorry I couldn't give you more information but my expertise is the earlier model Harley bikes.

Good Luck
Steve

It's not that big a job to change the front end suspension parts but taking all that fairing and the headlight nachele off is. You have to pull that stuff off to get to the top fork tube plugs in order to refill the tubes with oil once you change the lower sliders.

Good luck
Steve

That depends on where it's leaking. If it's leaking down at the axle, You can lift the bike off the ground, remove the front wheel. There's a bolt in the very bottom of the tube. Take the bolt out and slide the "slider" off the upper tube. While you have it off, replace the seal at the top of the "slider". This will fix any leak at the top of the slider. Clean the lower slider with clean mineral spirits and allow it to dry. Then, put a little bit of oil on the seal and a dab of clear RTV in the area where the copper washer goes and slide the slider back up on the tube. Put the bolt in and tighten it up. Replace the front wheel. Now, add the appropiate amount of fork oil for a "dry" refill. If you call the dealer, they should tell you how much oil goes in there. My manuals are not up to date for your model. Mine only shows for 1994 and Harley may have changed the fork tubes since then. Remember the higher viscosity of the oil, the stiffer the front suspension. The dealer will also tell you what oil came in the front forks from the factory.

Good Luck
Steve

Since you've let the air out of the shock you need to go to a Bike Shop for a refill anyway because a normal pump doesn't reach the pressures supplied by a shock pump. While you're there, have them set the bike up for your preferences and instruct you in shock operation.

48,000 miles or 48 months
Maintenance Service Schedule 2007 dodge
Change engine oil and engine oil filter
Rotate tires
Lubricate drivetrain / steering / suspension
grease fittings (if equipped)-except Powerwagon
Lubricate front drive shaft fitting
(2500 / 3500, 4X4 & Powewagon)
Lubricate tie rod end links - Powerwagon
Check automatic transmission fluid level
Check manual transmission fluid level
Check the coolant level, hoses and clamps
Inspect exhaust system
Inspect brake hoses and brake linings
Inspect the CV joints/U-joints (if equipped) and
front suspension components
Check spare tire for proper pressure & correct
stowage
Lubricate outer tie rod ends 2500/3500 4X4

51,000 miles or 51 months
Maintenance Service Schedule
Change engine oil and engine oil filter
Lubricate drivetrain / steering / suspension
grease fittings (if equipped)-except Powerwagon
Lubricate front drive shaft fitting
(2500/3500, 4X4 & Powerwagon)
Lubricate tie rod end links - Powerwagon
Check automatic transmission fluid level
Check manual transmission fluid level
Check the coolant level, hoses and clamps
Inspect exhaust system
Inspect brake hoses
Inspect the CV joints/U-joints (if equipped) and
front suspension components