I have a 4 stroke bike that starts 1st kick then after a little riding it stalls same as if it ran out of gas. carb is clean and gas is good.

Sounds like the tank vent, (gas cap ) isn't working.

Chances are there is a water build up in the carb float bowls. The water comes from condensation in the gas tank. Try draining the carbs. Another possibility is carburetor main jets partially plugged up. You must clean the carbs if plugged jets are found to be the problem. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

Check the spark plug to see if is sparking. Hold the metal threads against the metal cylinder and have a friend kick the engine over. If no spark, use an ohmmeter to check the kill switch on the bars and also the side-stand kill switch if your bike has one. Check the wires for a loose connection or disconnected wire.

mso 9]> Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 mso 9]> panose-1:2 11 6 3 2 2 2 2 2 4; mso-font-charset:0; mso-generic-font-family:swiss; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:647 0 0 0 159 0;} /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} /* List Definitions */ @list l0 {mso-list-id:176889364; mso-list-template-ids:1946964678;} @list l0:level1 {mso-level-number-format:bullet; mso-level-text:; mso-level-tab-stop:.5in; mso-level-number-position:left; text-indent:-.25in; mso-ansi-font-size:10.0pt; font-family:Symbol;} ol {margin-bottom:0in;} ul {margin-bottom:0in;} --> mso 10]> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} mso 9]> mso 9]> There is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting. Below are generic instructions.

• The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
• The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
• The de-compression lever, always used.
• the throttle, used to prime the cylinder, (power valve).

Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm, (Power valve), in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. A flooded engine will often backfire. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), for six kicks. After six kicks go ahead and twist the throttle again for a second priming. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting. Note that not all carbs have a power valve. When a power valve is not present you should crack the throttle open only 1/8 inch from closed on each kick. Please take a moment and rate my answer. Thanks!

There is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting.

• The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
• The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
• The de-compression lever, always used.
• The throttle, used to prime the cylinder.

Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. A flooded engine will often backfire. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), until the bike starts. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting.

ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side or bottom of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine.

There is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting.

• The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
• The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
• The de-compression lever, always used.
• The throttle, used to prime the cylinder.

Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. A flooded engine will often backfire. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), until the bike starts. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting.

There is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting.

• The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
• The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
• The de-compression lever, always used.
• The throttle, used to prime the cylinder.

Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. Give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kickstart lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from a backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), until the bike starts. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting.

Top rating for this answer? Thanks!

Yes, there is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting.

• The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
• The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
• The de-compression lever, always used.
• The throttle, used to prime the cylinder.

Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. Release the de-compression lever and give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kickstart lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), until the bike starts. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting.

As to the inability to keep the bike running, Clean the fuel system.
ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors. Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ). Be sure the gas cap vent hose is clear and the fuel petcock vent hose is clear. Check to see the fuel flows freely through the petcock.

Drain the carburetor. There should be a large screw on the bottom of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine. At the back top left side of the carb is the TPS, Throttle Position Sensor. Do not remove the TPS from the carb. Rather, disconnect the TPS wire lead from the wiring harness.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the air screw on the outside back throat of the carb and spray into the screw hole as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
IMPORTANT > re-install but do not tighten the air screw down. Only screw it inward until it LIGHTLY seats. Now turn the air screw one and one half turns outward. Pay special attention to the pilot jet, aka > idle jet. It is located at the front edge of the carb. Turn the adjuster outward 1/2 turn. Put the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road. I suggest you install an in-line fuel filter between the petcock and carb.

Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock.
www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx

This all sounds complicated, but right now it is a learning process for you. Pretty soon your friends will be asking YOU for advice.

Please top rate this solution. Thanks!

With a new plug and fresh gas it should start. Check to make sure there isn't a kill switch turned off or that the gas petcock from the tank to the carb is on.

How did you check the fuel filter? Disconnecting it from the fuel line that goes to the carb is the best way, making sure the gas is turned on under the tank. Bleed off a little gas into a can or something just to make sure the filter isn't plugged.

The last thing I'd do is take off the air filter and spray a little starting fluid in the carb. It may start and run several times if there is old gas in there somewhere. Remember the bowl on the carb is probably still full of old gas. After some fresh fuel reaches the plug it should start and continue to run.

(You might drain the bowl on the carb of ols gas before you go any further)

Good luck!

Sirwriter

sounds if you picked up some water/dirt in fuel when was low

clean fuel bowl and flush carb by drain port if still ruff then remove carb for cleaning

• Got gas and is it turned on? Clean air filter?
• Have a buddy kick the starter while you look for spark.
• Assuming no spark, how good is your battery? Are the fuses good? Kill switch on or shorted to the bars or elsewhere? Side stand kill switch gone bad?
• carb, head and intake manifold mounted tight?
• Have the dealer check the CDI, coil etc.
• Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).
  
• Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.
  
• Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb
  

Please rate this answer. Thanks mschurman!