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Re: changing front and rear bearings on honda cr 250
Hi buddy simply take the wheels off and the caps remove the dust seal with a screw driver and the circlip which will onl;y be on 1 side and pop out with a long screw driver and hammer and hit it hard if it dont move after a couple off hits heat the hub or the outside of it and the bang it out then to reinstall the new ones just put the bearings in place get some stud bar with washers and 2 nuts slide this through the bearings and bush in the midle through the hub and turn the nuts th will pull them in or take it too a garqage and do it which is an easier option any more info buddy get back to me
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? 4:54 www.youtube.com/watch?v=P3TqheRsX1w
Sep 25, 2013 - Uploaded by Honda Civic How To
Hi in this first video i will look at how you can easily change a failed bulb in a 2001-2005 Honda civic's hazard ...
honda-tech.com/honda-civic.../%5Bdiy%5D-92-00-civic-rear-hatch-glas... [DIY] 92-00 Civic REAR Hatch Glass Intermittent Wiper Retrofit Guide ... The answer lies in a 1997 Honda CR-V. So the 98+ CR-V models all had their rear ... Remove the Rear Intermittent Washer/Wiper Relay from the under-side of the dash, ...
A howling noise from a diff is an indication of the gear mesh( pinion to crown wheel) is not correct. Several reasons being worn pinion bearings--loss of preload on the pinion bearings --- crown wheel carrier bearings failing ---not sufficient preload on the bearings---wear on the teeth from incorrect diff oil in use. or simply wrong diff oil. The grade should be 80w90 OEP for normal or special oil for limited slip diffs.
set your rear for full comp dampen, and change to a higher oil in the shocks like a 15 or 20 wt and set to full damp. ride and lower the dampening a click at a time until your landings feel soft and smooth. if you are bouncing after landings raise the rebound dampener also.
Usually, it seems that changing the front sprocket is more cost effective and easier to do. The front sprockets are about $10-$20 and rears are normally around $40-$50. Usually 1T gearing changes made to the front sprocket are the equivilant of a 3T-4T gearing change to the rear. I personally would go up on the front instead of down on the rear. Right now your gear ratio is 3.846 (meaning every 3.846 rotations of the front sprocket, the rear sprocket makes 1 rotation) If you go down 2T in the rear (13/48) your gear ratio would be 3.692 giving you a little less torque and a little more top end. If you go Up 1T in the front (14/50) your gear ratio would be 3.571. This would be about the equivilant of a 46.5T rear sprocket. (If they made it) The nice thing about doing the front sprocket first is the cost. If you decide it's too much difference and you want something in between, you can put the stock 13 back on and then change the rear (and you would only be out the $$ for the front sprocket) If you start with the rear and decide it's not enough then you change the front you're out the $$ for the rear.
I don't have any experience with a 2001 model but every CR and other motorcross bike I have had requires you to knock the bearings out of their own side of the wheel. You need to get in behind the bearing from the other side of the wheel and knock it out of its own side. I don't see how it could work any other way. Imagine you were replacing the bearings having got the old ones out. Is one of the bearings smaller enough to fit through the hole in the middle of the other bearing? It would need to be if they both come out of the same side? Otherwise the seat for the larger bearing in the hub would prevent you getting the smaller bearing out of its side? Hope you see where I am coming from, as I said I havn't worked on a 2001 model so its more of a logical argument than 100% advice. Good luck.
if you drive when you apply gas if you have vibration the u joint are loose or jam i change does drive shaft often they dont sell parts to repair in canada its 752.00 plus labour hope it help you fixya our post thanks pierre