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Samsung un55h6203afxza us01 tv. Sound,but no picture. p/s burned spot near connector which goes to backlights. Replaced all 4 boards-nothing has changed. I used a voltmeter set

To vdc to test the voltage at each M+ pin of the connector for the cable which goes to the backlights. Tested with the connector plugged in and also with the connector unplugged. In both cases I found 300 vdc+- on pin #1 and zero on all the other pins. I verified the volt meter is working properly, so that's not the issue. The flashlight test shows there is a picture, but no backlights working. Appreciate any advice as to what might be the problem?

Posted by Harold Wesler on


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  • 4234 Answers

SOURCE: Model CF1926A TV with insufficient

I think you missed one cap. Look for another 1ufd cap close to the jungle chip. It will have the circuit designation in the 300's like the others in the vertical circuit. It is just not located close by. I think that one will fix it.I don't have the service data with me so I can't give you the exact designation.

Posted on Jun 04, 2008



  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: Low voltage output from inverter

I am thinking this a high impediance device problem and this is normal operation - the user manual of my inverter warns about use with high impediance devices - if not I am interested also...

Posted on Mar 03, 2009



  • 29 Answers

SOURCE: I have a RCA L32WD12 that my dad got for free 2

no negative have to mesure from positive lead to negative about 24 v.

Posted on Jan 20, 2010


  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have replaced the power supply on my Acer Aspire

When you have this problem on this PC, do not replace the power supply or the motherboard until you have first tried pulling out the video card. When the video card fails it can cause the x1700 to not power up. Pull the video card and see if it will power up without it.

Posted on May 19, 2010


TV Doctor

  • 373 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Westinghouse LCD television with built-in

I am a TV repairman and I have repaired TV's almost everyday for the last 30 years. And I know from experience that if an electrolytic is warm on the top of them that they are starting to go bad. My suggestion is this: Take the one's that are warm out and if you have a capacitor checker, check them to see if they are weak in capacitance. If you don't have a checker the best way is to replace them. It will be worth the effort to find out. I very often, take capacitors out of a spare board (not the same) and use them. I am assuming you are referring to the power supply as the main board. The capacitors that are in line with the voltage to the inverter is 24 volts and they sustain the voltage and keep it up under a load to light up the backlight. You could look and see that some boards put the voltage by the pins on the connectors and this may help if it does in this case. However, the inverter has switching circuits to produce the high voltage to the transformers on the inverter to light up the backlight and if they don't turn on then no backlight. Inverters are highly intergrated so replacement is best. Also there are fuses on the inverter labeled F1, F2 etc. Check them for continunity. It the fuses are open then you for sure have a bad inverter board.

Posted on May 26, 2011

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LG 47LN5750 Have audio and have done flashlight test - I can see image with flashlight - no backlights.

Make sure the power supply is being triggered. If there is no LED_On signal it may read that. But if you know the backlight should be in, then check LEDs. Try powering each LED on the strip individually with a battery/resistor. unhook each strip before testing.

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LG 42LN5400-UA.BUSYLHR back lights not working, sound working, flashlight test shows video working.

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Samsung led tv - turns on,audio ok, no video, backlight on

Sounds like T'Con board fault. Check and replace it. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Pull up older posts. Surf the site with patience.

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How to test voltage regaltor

Voltage Regulator Bleed Test if the battery is discharging wile sitting unused.

Ensure that the regulator is connected to battery, then unplug voltage regulator connector at the engine crankcase (the stator connector) to isolate the regulator from the stator windings. THEN using a test light, touch one probe to a suitable ground and touch the other to the regulator pins, one at a time. IF the tester light glows at any time the regulator is defective (shorted) and needs to be replaced.


Motorcycle voltage regulator connections must be clean and tight for proper operation so it must be verified that both the AC (stator) connections and the DC (battery supply side) connectors are clean, fully inserted and locked in place with the regulator latches (they should also be coated with dielectric grease to keep them clean and corrosion free).

The motorcycle voltage regulator is a series regulator that is also a rectifier that changes stator supplied alternating current (AC) to direct current (DC) which the battery system requires. If the charging system does not keep the battery properly charged both with regards to Voltage (between 13 VDC minimum and 15.5 VDC maximum) and the current supply at a high enough amperage to meet the system lighting, ignition, TSM/TSSM, security and accessory requirements plus a minimum of 3.5 more amps (3.5 amps more than the foregoing system requirements) there are a number of tests that can be done to ascertain why.

As the voltage regulator must have a good, clean, tight (and otherwise secure) ground connection for proper operation a Voltage Regulator Ground Circuit Test can be accomplished by connecting an ohmmeter to a known good ground (like the battery negative post) and the case of the regulator. If there is continuity with little resistance the ground is GOOD and nothing more needs to be done BUT if there is NO continuity or there is more than minimal resistance the ground will need to be fixed so there is a low resistance continuity by either locating and fixing the poor ground or adding a new grounding wire from the regulator case to a know good ground.

A Voltage Regulator Power Circuit Test can be accomplished by turning OFF the Ignition, disconnecting the voltage regulator and with an ohmmeter set to the Rx1 setting, testing for continuity between the voltage regulator wire harness supply terminal and the main fuse terminal (with the fuse removed) and if there is continuity present then the wiring circuit here is GOOD but if there is NO continuity then you will need to either find the open and repair it or replace the whole wire running from the voltage regulator to the main fuse.

As there should be no short circuit in the power supply from the regulator to battery (main fuse) wiring OR in the regulator internal circuitry continuity from these both need to be checked again with an ohmmeter set to the Rx1 setting. If the regulator to main fuse wiring connector is not disconnected from the regulator you can connect an ohmmeter with one lead on the regulator supply wire terminal end at the main fuse (with the main fuse removed) and the other lead to a known good ground. If there is NO continuity then you know that both the supply wire and the regulator are okay (as there is no short to ground). BUT if there is continuity then either the regulator or wiring or both is/are shorted to ground. To determine where there is a short circuit (i.e. either the wiring or the regulator internal circuitry) you must disconnect the DC side of the wiring harness (the connector at the DC side of the regulator) from the regulator and test between either or both ends of the wire i.e. from the regulator wire harness connector terminal and a known good ground and/or the main fuse terminal end of the wire and a known good ground. If there is any continuity the wire is shorted to ground and the short circuit must be found and repaired or the wire must be completely replaced. If there is no such continuity then the regulator DC supply terminal (with the DC side of the regulator connector disconnected) must be tested by putting one lead of an ohmmeter on the regulator terminal and the other on a known good ground. If there is continuity the regulator is shorted to ground and must be replaced. If there is a short in the wiring it is unlikely BUT the regulator could ALSO be internally shorted so it should also be checked either before or after any wiring short is located and repaired.

The voltage regulator must also properly regulate the rectified DC voltage supplied to the battery so that it is not less than 13 VDC or more than 15.5 VDC. If the regulator is not properly limiting supply voltage to the battery to 15.5 VDC or less it will be overcharging the battery. This can be tested for by operating the motorcycle engine at 3000 rpm while placing a voltmeter between the battery positive and negative posts and reading the supplied voltage. If the reading is greater than 15.5 VDC the regulator is defective and must be replaced. If the voltage is less than 15.5 VDC but more than 13 VDC the regulator and the rest of the charging system are operating correctly. If the supplied voltage is less than 13 VDC the AC side of the system must be tested and if the AC side is good but the supplied voltage at the battery is less than 13 VDC then the regulator is defective and must be replaced. If the AC side of the system is not providing correct AC supply then the stator must be tested and if it is bad, replaced and if it is good then the rotor inspected (cannot be electrically tested as it consists of permanent magnets but it could be inspected fro physical damage and roughly tested for strong magnetic force fields by using a ferrous metal object to see if the attraction of the magnets is strong or weak, but this is basically a better guess rather than a precise measurement). The rotor can also be physically inspected for physical signs of damage including signs of the center hole having become oval AND the stator bolts inspected for possibly having come loose and into contact with the rotor.

Sep 09, 2014 | 2004 Harley Davidson FLHTC - FLHTCI...

1 Answer

Machine well not turn on it has f 70

NOTE: I do not recommend checking voltages unless you have experience and feel safe and confident in doing so, otherwise I recommend calling a service technician to diagnose and repair your washer.


  1. Lock the control by pressing and holding the cycle signal button.
  2. Press the Power button.
  3. If the lock light flashes when you press the power button it indicates the center interface was able to take the input and the Right hand User Interface received the DCV signal from the Center User Interface but since the display did not light. This indicates an issue with the Right hand user Interface.
NOTE: This is a quick test you can try to get to a quick resolution, but remember if the Lock Light does not blink once the power button is pressed you will need to follow the standard checks below.

  1. First try to put the washer into the Diagnostic Test Mode per the Tech Sheet by pressing any key except Stop/Cancel and the Control Lock for 2-5 seconds on and 2-5 seconds off 5 times as outlined on the tech sheet; at this point the Right Hand Interface should light up.
  2. IF the Right Hand Interface did not light up in Step 1 check for 5 VDC on the UIP3 wire connector coming off of the control board to the Right Hand Interface from (Pin 1 to Pin 2) and from (Pin 1 to Pin 3). If you do not have the 5 VDC then replace the Machine Control Board.
  3. IF the Right Hand Interface did light up then remove the J003 connector. This is the 9 pin connector that goes between the Right Hand Interface and Center Interface.
  4. Short across (Pin 7 to Pin 8) on the Right Hand Interface.
  5. IF the Right Hand Interface did light up then replace the Center Interface due to a failed "Power" key.
  6. IF the Right Hand Interface did not light up then check from (Pin 1 to Pin 7) and (Pin 1 to Pin 8) on the right hand interface at the J003 connector you should have between 1.2vdc to 1.5vdc.
  7. Also check for DC voltage on the J004 (10 Pin connector) on the Right Hand Interface from (Pin 1 to Pin 2) and from (Pin 1 to Pin 10. You should have between 1.5vdc to 5.5vdc.
  8. IF you do not have the DC voltage at either of the checks above replace the Right Hand Interface.
NOTE 1: The #1 Pin on both the J003 and the J004 is identified by the white wire. NOTE 2: The picture below is the J004 connector that goes from the Center Interface to the Right Hand Interface and the red arrows are pointing to the check points for the 4 to 5 VDC and the J003 connector.
Image 1 Image 2

Post back your findings and your model number.

Nov 02, 2012 | Kenmore Elite HE5t Washer

1 Answer

I am trying to troubleshoot whether or not my ultra x2 connect 550 watt power supply is bad. When you press the power button on the computer, the light flashes and then noth9ing else happens. The light...

Well here is a way to check your power supply, on your hard drive connector using your volt meter and measuring from ground. this would be using one of two middle connectors it should measure +5 VDC on the red wire and + 12 VDC on the yellow wire. If these voltages are good then we got to see if the power supply is producing the -12VDC voltage. This voltage is ussed by the syustemboard on pin 14 of a 24 pin power supply. I would recommend not having your system board plugged in while measuring these votlages, but the power supply may need a load, I would plug in the cdrom.. Below are a couple of picture to explain this and a link to a website that has this documented.

dfish26_1.jpg The 24 pin main power connector was added in ATX12V 2.0 to provide extra power needed by PCI Express slots. The older 20 pin main power cable only has one 12 volt line. The new 24 pin connector added one line apiece for ground, 3.3, 5, and 12 volts. The extra pins made the auxiliary power cable unnecessary so most ATX12V 2.x power supplies don't have them. The 24 pin connector is polarized so it can only be plugged in pointing in the correct direction.
Pinout Pins 1 through 12 Pins 13 through 24 Description Wire color Pin number Pin number Wire color Description +3.3 volts orange 1 13 orange +3.3 volts +3.3 volts orange 2 14 blue -12 volts ground black 3 15 black ground +5 volts red 4 16 green PS_ON# ground black 5 17 black ground +5 volts red 6 18 black ground ground black 7 19 black ground PWR_OK gray 8 20 white -5 volts (optional) VSB +5 volts purple 9 21 red +5 volts +12 volts yellow 10 22 red +5 volts +12 volts yellow 11 23 red +5 volts +3.3 volts orange 12 24 black ground
Good Luck I hope this helps.

Nov 19, 2010 | PSA Ultra X2 Connect (ULT31851) 550-Watt...

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