Question about Yamaha V Star Classic 650 Motorcycles
V-star 650 custom. I was riding today, and on the on-ramp, I lost power, the engine kept running, and I could shift gears, but there was absolutely no power getting to the rear wheel. I called a tow and got it home. The shaft drive is not moving while it is in gear. What should I tear apart first to find the issue? Clutch? Gears? Final drive splines? @
Hi, Steven and the usual suspects are:
1. Clutch not engaging due to improper adjustment.
2. Clutch plates worn passed book specs.
3. Transmission not engaging.
4. Broken main shaft.
5. Broken countershaft.
6. Broken chain.
7. Broken belt.
8. Broken U-Joint in the drive shaft.
9. Broken CVT unit.
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Yamaha XVS650 Service Manual
Posted on Jul 18, 2019
Check the fluid level on your clutch slave cylinder. Have someone depress the clutch while visually observing the movement of the levers under the hood. Could also be a bad throwout bearing.
Posted on May 08, 2009
Known issue with the 650 vstars...no recall from yamaha though. The drive shaft splines are **** and they shear off on the shaft and the side that goes in the gearbox. Gearbox (rear drive unit) = $825 Shaft = 160. Have to buy the gearbox as a whole because yamaha is greedy.
Posted on Aug 06, 2009
Unfortunately, you can get noise from the transmission, clutch basket,
drive shaft, pinion gears or rear wheel on the Royal Star. No way to
tell which you have so:
Barring a failure of the clutch basket, a change to a multi-grade synthetic oil THAT DOES NOT HAVE AN ENERGY-CONSERVING SEAL ON THE BOTTLE will quiet gear and clutch noise. Energy-conserving oils tend to make a wet clutch slip. Try Shell Rotella-T (T6) synthetic, available at Walmart for about $19.00 a gallon, I've got 111,000 on a Tour Deluxe with it, and it just keeps going...
The drive shaft on the Royal Star can also make noise if both ends are not properly lubricated; tourers have found that Honda Moly 60 paste on both ends at about 15,000 mile intervals will eliminate that aggravation.
Hypoid gears in the final drive can also be noisy. Short of having the drive disassembled and replacement shims installed, changing to a good synthetic 75W-140 lubricant will quiet or eliminate the whine.
Splines and pins in the final drive and rear wheel assembly can also cause noise. Remove the rear wheel, put a thin layer of Honda Moly 60 paste on the pins, dampers and in the drive spline, ditto with the mating spline on the final drive. I relubricate all of these every time I change rear tires, probably more often than necessary, but it's convenient to do when the wheel is off.
Posted on Jul 24, 2010
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