I have a 97 KX250. I replaced the clutch cable, the basket is a brand new Hinson and Barnett Clutch kit and HD springs. In order for it to even get close to engaging I have to adjust the cable all the way out on both the cable and perch. It will engage then, but it seems very iffy. I've taken it apart a few times and did notice that the throw out bearing is like 1/4 inch from the pressure plate when all installed properly. Is this normal?? Could the clutch plates be too big in the stack? I have no idea what is wrong! I'm switching to OEM springs though. I was told HD can hang the clutch some and it's really hard to pull with them. It just seems like to have a new clutch, basket, cable, etc and to have to adjust it out completely is odd to me. Is this normal??
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Make sure you properly adjust the new cable so that it has the proper amount of play - that you don't have it too tight (no engine engaging) or too loose (engine won't disengage).
new procut basket and barnett plates. Had to file the barnett friction plate tangs they all slide but are a tight fit. All plates installed carefully per the Barnett instructions. Started the bike in neutral all fine shifted into 1st clutch in, I feel the bike want to creep forward although just slightly (I can hold it with my feet down). Can't get to neutral again with the clutch in until I shut the bike off.
So, just before I go back in and pull a plate out to make the clutch pack smaller, i wondered whether anyone here has had this problem and whether if I ride it like this for a short while whether the clutch pack will settle in and fully disengage?,A too-high overall thickness of the plate stack will cause drag between plates when the clutch is disengaged making it difficult to select neutral when the bike is stopped.
The last 2mm steel plate can be interchanged with a 1.5mm curved plate facing away from you if you want to adjust the stack to get the 38mm stack thickness, or if you want a more progressive, soft clutch engagement. A commonly-used substitution that adds an additional spring plate to the stack.
Any of the steel 2mm plain plates can be exchanged with 1.5mm plain plates to reduce stack thickness or increase stack thickness as needed to achieve your desired overall height. You will see the need for this as friction plates wear, so keep your steel plates from pervious clutch replacements as spares to be used as height adjustments later. The 2mm and 1.5mm steel plates only need replacing if they’re scored or warped.,,,
new procut basket and barnett plates. Had to file the barnett friction plate tangs they all slide but are a tight fit. All plates installed carefully per the Barnett instructions. Started the bike in neutral all fine shifted into 1st clutch in, I feel the bike want to creep forward although just slightly (I can hold it with my feet down). Can't get to neutral again with the clutch in until I shut the bike off.
So, just before I go back in and pull a plate out to make the clutch pack smaller, i wondered whether anyone here has had this problem and whether if I ride it like this for a short while whether the clutch pack will settle in and fully disengage?,A too-high overall thickness of the plate stack will cause drag between plates when the clutch is disengaged making it difficult to select neutral when the bike is stopped.
The last 2mm steel plate can be interchanged with a 1.5mm curved plate facing away from you if you want to adjust the stack to get the 38mm stack thickness, or if you want a more progressive, soft clutch engagement. A commonly-used substitution that adds an additional spring plate to the stack.
Any of the steel 2mm plain plates can be exchanged with 1.5mm plain plates to reduce stack thickness or increase stack thickness as needed to achieve your desired overall height. You will see the need for this as friction plates wear, so keep your steel plates from pervious clutch replacements as spares to be used as height adjustments later. The 2mm and 1.5mm steel plates only need replacing if they’re scored or warped.,,,
new procut basket and barnett plates. Had to file the barnett friction plate tangs they all slide but are a tight fit. All plates installed carefully per the Barnett instructions. Started the bike in neutral all fine shifted into 1st clutch in, I feel the bike want to creep forward although just slightly (I can hold it with my feet down). Can't get to neutral again with the clutch in until I shut the bike off.
So, just before I go back in and pull a plate out to make the clutch pack smaller, i wondered whether anyone here has had this problem and whether if I ride it like this for a short while whether the clutch pack will settle in and fully disengage?,A too-high overall thickness of the plate stack will cause drag between plates when the clutch is disengaged making it difficult to select neutral when the bike is stopped.
The last 2mm steel plate can be interchanged with a 1.5mm curved plate facing away from you if you want to adjust the stack to get the 38mm stack thickness, or if you want a more progressive, soft clutch engagement. A commonly-used substitution that adds an additional spring plate to the stack.
Any of the steel 2mm plain plates can be exchanged with 1.5mm plain plates to reduce stack thickness or increase stack thickness as needed to achieve your desired overall height. You will see the need for this as friction plates wear, so keep your steel plates from pervious clutch replacements as spares to be used as height adjustments later. The 2mm and 1.5mm steel plates only need replacing if they’re scored or warped.,,,
new procut basket and barnett plates. Had to file the barnett friction plate tangs they all slide but are a tight fit. All plates installed carefully per the Barnett instructions. Started the bike in neutral all fine shifted into 1st clutch in, I feel the bike want to creep forward although just slightly (I can hold it with my feet down). Can't get to neutral again with the clutch in until I shut the bike off.
So, just before I go back in and pull a plate out to make the clutch pack smaller, i wondered whether anyone here has had this problem and whether if I ride it like this for a short while whether the clutch pack will settle in and fully disengage?,A too-high overall thickness of the plate stack will cause drag between plates when the clutch is disengaged making it difficult to select neutral when the bike is stopped.
The last 2mm steel plate can be interchanged with a 1.5mm curved plate facing away from you if you want to adjust the stack to get the 38mm stack thickness, or if you want a more progressive, soft clutch engagement. A commonly-used substitution that adds an additional spring plate to the stack.
Any of the steel 2mm plain plates can be exchanged with 1.5mm plain plates to reduce stack thickness or increase stack thickness as needed to achieve your desired overall height. You will see the need for this as friction plates wear, so keep your steel plates from pervious clutch replacements as spares to be used as height adjustments later. The 2mm and 1.5mm steel plates only need replacing if they’re scored or warped.,,,
new procut basket and barnett plates. Had to file the barnett friction plate tangs they all slide but are a tight fit. All plates installed carefully per the Barnett instructions. Started the bike in neutral all fine shifted into 1st clutch in, I feel the bike want to creep forward although just slightly (I can hold it with my feet down). Can't get to neutral again with the clutch in until I shut the bike off.
So, just before I go back in and pull a plate out to make the clutch pack smaller, i wondered whether anyone here has had this problem and whether if I ride it like this for a short while whether the clutch pack will settle in and fully disengage?,A too-high overall thickness of the plate stack will cause drag between plates when the clutch is disengaged making it difficult to select neutral when the bike is stopped.
The last 2mm steel plate can be interchanged with a 1.5mm curved plate facing away from you if you want to adjust the stack to get the 38mm stack thickness, or if you want a more progressive, soft clutch engagement. A commonly-used substitution that adds an additional spring plate to the stack.
Any of the steel 2mm plain plates can be exchanged with 1.5mm plain plates to reduce stack thickness or increase stack thickness as needed to achieve your desired overall height. You will see the need for this as friction plates wear, so keep your steel plates from pervious clutch replacements as spares to be used as height adjustments later. The 2mm and 1.5mm steel plates only need replacing if they’re scored or warped.,,,
new procut basket and barnett plates. Had to file the barnett friction plate tangs they all slide but are a tight fit. All plates installed carefully per the Barnett instructions. Started the bike in neutral all fine shifted into 1st clutch in, I feel the bike want to creep forward although just slightly (I can hold it with my feet down). Can't get to neutral again with the clutch in until I shut the bike off.
So, just before I go back in and pull a plate out to make the clutch pack smaller, i wondered whether anyone here has had this problem and whether if I ride it like this for a short while whether the clutch pack will settle in and fully disengage?,A too-high overall thickness of the plate stack will cause drag between plates when the clutch is disengaged making it difficult to select neutral when the bike is stopped.
The last 2mm steel plate can be interchanged with a 1.5mm curved plate facing away from you if you want to adjust the stack to get the 38mm stack thickness, or if you want a more progressive, soft clutch engagement. A commonly-used substitution that adds an additional spring plate to the stack.
Any of the steel 2mm plain plates can be exchanged with 1.5mm plain plates to reduce stack thickness or increase stack thickness as needed to achieve your desired overall height. You will see the need for this as friction plates wear, so keep your steel plates from pervious clutch replacements as spares to be used as height adjustments later. The 2mm and 1.5mm steel plates only need replacing if they’re scored or warped.,,,
new procut basket and barnett plates. Had to file the barnett friction plate tangs they all slide but are a tight fit. All plates installed carefully per the Barnett instructions. Started the bike in neutral all fine shifted into 1st clutch in, I feel the bike want to creep forward although just slightly (I can hold it with my feet down). Can't get to neutral again with the clutch in until I shut the bike off.
So, just before I go back in and pull a plate out to make the clutch pack smaller, i wondered whether anyone here has had this problem and whether if I ride it like this for a short while whether the clutch pack will settle in and fully disengage?,A too-high overall thickness of the plate stack will cause drag between plates when the clutch is disengaged making it difficult to select neutral when the bike is stopped.
The last 2mm steel plate can be interchanged with a 1.5mm curved plate facing away from you if you want to adjust the stack to get the 38mm stack thickness, or if you want a more progressive, soft clutch engagement. A commonly-used substitution that adds an additional spring plate to the stack.
Any of the steel 2mm plain plates can be exchanged with 1.5mm plain plates to reduce stack thickness or increase stack thickness as needed to achieve your desired overall height. You will see the need for this as friction plates wear, so keep your steel plates from pervious clutch replacements as spares to be used as height adjustments later. The 2mm and 1.5mm steel plates only need replacing if they’re scored or warped.,,,
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