Problem with drive shaft on yamaha v-star 650 06 model
Hi, the bearings have gone on the drive shaft at the back wheel and i can not work out the best way to remove and replace them, i think the shaft maybe heat treated, but i am not sure where the split is or the best way to go about it. Can anyone help thanks.
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Re: problem with drive shaft on yamaha v-star 650 06...
Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part and/or the notation "Not Available" is in the description, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx
This will show the construction and sequence of the parts. Can I get a “very helpful” rating on this answer?
Re: problem with drive shaft on yamaha v-star 650 06...
Well it was nice information for ordering parts, but not removing them. From what I can see, and I will be doing mine shortly, there is a threaded retaining ring before the bearing. Take the ring out the bearing should come out then. I will follow up with results.
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if this is a 4wd drive model , try having someone listen to front wheel hubs when you back up , id be conserned that the front wheel hubs seals have gone bad and there is now dirt inside bearings and has damaged them , also ive seen clicking caused by locking hubs not fully disengauged by dirt stuck inside
Rear wheel drive? Remove the axle shaft by either removing the four bolts behind the brake drum, or remove the differential cover, push the axle shaft in and remove the C clip inside at the end of the shaft.Then drive the stud out with a hammer, hammer in the new one, replace the axle.
Front wheel drive? Remove the bearing cap , remove the Bearing nut(s). Remove the hub, replace the stud as outlined above.
from your description, it sounds like the clutch friction plate has worn down and the grinding noise is caused by the rivets holding the friction material in place rubbing against the flycheel and the clutch cover.
i think that the best advice i can give you here is to find a mechanic who can do the job for you, or at least help you with the job.. i can understand that finances can be an issue, but changing a clutch is not a job to try with limited mechanical experience. most clutch changes involve removal of the drive shafts (front wheel drive) or the prop shaft (rear wheel drive). then complete removal of the gearbox........ then the clutch cover needs to be removed, the clutch plate replaced and realigned. then it all need to be replaced.
i do not think it would be fair of me to advise trying this job yourself with limited experience, but if you do need to do this yourself, then i can only recommend that you get hold of a good workshop manual, that should have step by step instructions on the clutch change, usually with photos and diagrams.
i would suspect bad driveshaft hanger bearing - to confirm, jack up back end of truck and hold up with jack stands. have someone in the truck to accelerate to the speed where you hear the noise, listen for the noise - a stethescope is very useful for this. good luck!
hi, now this is a big job and the nut you need to undo you will need a air gun to undo is as it is torqued up that tight that you wont undo it using any hand tools but here is how you do it. 1. put car on axle stands so wheels are off the floor and remove the wheels. 2. On the side that the bearing needs replacing you need to undo the bottom ball joint witch is under neath the disk break should be just one nut and bolt. 3. is best to undo the track rod end from the steering rack this is the tie rod and should be located in the wheel hub towards the drivers door and is held in place with one nut from under neath. 4. after you undo both of these you will then need a ball joint splitter to sepperate these parts from the hub as they will be to tight to remove from their locating possition. 5. now to get to the bearing itself this is where you need an airgun or similar tool they use in a garage. now right at the centre of the wheel hub you will see a really bug nut attatched to the end of the drive shaft and you can see the end off the drive shaft coming through the hub. I think the nut is nearly a 30m or 32m socket to undo. 6. Once this is undone gently tap the end of the drive shaft through the hub whilst gently pulling the hub outwards dont pull the hub outwards if the drive shaft isnt coming free from the hub as you can pull the drive shaft out of the gearbox and then you will have a right mess with geasrbox oil everywhere as the drive shaft is only push fit into gear box.
If the drive shaft is coming free from the hub then keep pulling the hub towards you untill the drive shaft is free (secure driveshaft with string so as not to put stress on the drive shaft bearing). Now you should be able to remove the old bearing and insert the new make sure you clean the old bearing out properly and use new grease to lube the new bearing.
When doing the drive shaft back up you need to use air gun again to tighten the nut up enough to be safe to drive as their is alot of pressure on these parts. You wont undo the nut without a air compressor and air tools buying these would be more expensive than paying a garage to do the repairs themselves. Please choose carefully as once you have started if you have any problems you cant take the car to a garage as it will be in bits. Let me know if you need further assistance. If you are going to do this yourself then please buy a workshop manual as this will give you the correct torque settings as the bearing has to be torqued up to a required setting else the bearing will just fail again.
hi from the uk seriously the best advice i will give you having done these is remove wheel then with foot brake applied? remove the drive shaft securing nut(cv joint ) tap the joint back ? then remove b/caliper assy then diconnect track rod steering end then remove the bolt and nut that secures the lower ball swivel joint (you may find this stiff but percevier try a lever bar and press suspension lower arm down ) then two bolts and nuts secure hub assy to strut ? remove these and you can pull complete assy off drive cv shaft now you are best to take the hub assy complete with rotor/disc to a local engineer shop or garage that has a press or bearing puller hydraulic press is best option ? and ask if they could remove the old bearing and fit new for a small fee ? believe me these bearings can be a cow and if you want a quick turnround? this is best way rather than potential damage by trying to hammer bearing races out ? just a little more advice clean up/wash off assy before you take it to shop it will be more helpfull to mechanic to work on be sure you renew the cv hub nut and re torque after reassembly hope these instructions help you ? best wishes
The brake rotor needs to be removed, drive shaft nut in center of hub then 3 bolts hold the hub assembly to spindle from back side. if it has abs unplug it then some work will need to be done with a hammer and chisel to work the bearing out of spindle and axle shaft from bearing
Raise and support the vehicle. Remove the tire and wheel. .
Remove the brake rotor.
Disengage the wheel drive shaft from the wheel hub and bearing. Place a brass drift against the outer end of the wheel drive shaft in order to protect the wheel drive shaft threads. Sharply strike the brass drift with the hammer. Do not attempt to remove the wheel drive shaft from the wheel hub and bearing at this time.
Remove the wheel hub and bearing from the steering knuckle by removing the three bolts coming in from the back side of the knuckle.
Of course you may have to use a hammer to loosen the bearing from the knuckle.