You didn't say what year the bike is. There is a place on the web you can see an exploded view of your gearbox (and all the rest of the bike).
Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part and/or the notation "Not Available" is in the description, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx Can I get a “very helpful” rating on this answer?
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There should be a round sleeve that fits on the crank pulley once the timing belt is installed. It looks like a big metal washer. If all the other pulleys are ok and nothing out of line it should not walk off.
your gearbox has proberlly gone, take the case off and check the teeth out on the cog and the hook that grabs the gear, check that the fuel is going through
tyres thats normal thats how the dif works wheels go opposite ways. im thinking the linkage has snapped inside the gearbox. its a half circle that moves the cogs for the gears. if its locked in place then its slipped. it would need a replacement gearbox. part of it mus be broken off and in the cogs thats why its cutting the engine out it will act like a brake and just burn the clutch out if you keep doing it. replace the gear box, its lasted a long time from 1991 if its original, when fitting new gearbox replace the gearbox fluid. give the gear box a good flush out before fitting.
Don't start messing with the derailleur yet! Make sure your shifting trouble isn't due to something else, such as a warped, dirty, or stretched chain, gummed-up pulleys, crud in the cable housing, trapped cable, or a bent derailleur hanger Clean the chain and the rear derailleur pulleys. Pull the chain away from each pulley, and turn the pulley to make sure it can move freely. A pulley that offers resistance to turning must be replaced. Now check the cable to be sure it slides freely. Mud and grit within the cable housing, or on a cable-guide, can keep the derailleur from moving a "full gear" during downshifts. If the cable doesn't slide freely in the housing, you may be able to clean or lube it to restore smooth shifting. Let the high-gear limit screw. In your highest gear on the shifter, and with the chain on the smallest cog, position the derailleur so the upper pulley exactly matches the teeth of the small cog. Run the chain a bit with the front derailleur in the large ring, adjusting the limit screw until the pulley and the cog seem to match perfectly.
Setting the high-gear (small cog) limiting screw.
Once you're sure the derailleur matches the cog, move it just a whisker (1/8 to 1/4 turn) towards the other cogs. (You may need to readjust a bit if you get chain-skip.)
Closeup of setting the limiting screw.
Now adjust the low-gear limit screw. Shift into the lowest gear (largest cog). If it won't go, loosen the limit screw. With the chain on the largest cog (and the front derailleur in the small chainring), adjust the derailleur so the upper pulley exactly matches the teeth of the large cog.Once it's perfect, turn the limit screw so it moves the derailleur a tiny amount towards the other cogs (1/8 to 1/4 turn usually works).
Setting the low-gear (largest cog) limiting screw.
Now shift to the highest gear (smallest cog). Push the shift lever to downshift one gear (go from the smallest cog to the next-smallest). If it doesn't shift, tighten the cable with the barrel adjuster, 1/2 turn counter-clockwise. Backshift and try again. Continue tightening until it shifts. If it overshifts, going from the smallest cog to the third-smallest, loosen the cable by turning 1/2 turn clockwise. Backshift and repeat until it shifts exactly from the small to the next-smallest cog.
Fine adjustment of tension in the derailleur cable.
Now go to the second-smallest ring. Tighten or loosen the cable slightly, until the outer side plates of the chain are just clearing the third-smallest cog. Shift up and down, fine-tuning until you're satisfied.
For confirmation of a broken third gear tooth, drive slowly and shift up to third gear. Give the throttle a gentle rotation to slowly speed up. Listen for clunking sounds from the gearbox. If you hear it then you know there is a broken tooth. ALWAYS replace the gears in sets. If enough pressure was on a gear to break of a tooth then the same pressure was on the gear it was engaged into. Yes, only one of the two gears is missing a tooth but the other gear has a cracked tooth just ready to break as soon as you button up the engine after replacing only the toothless gear.
I am a bit removed from the cost of todays repairs so I suggest you give a call to your local dealer. If I had to guess, I would say about $600.00. Sorry for the bad news.
You could have a bent shift fork not engaging the slider gear fully into 3rd gear. Broken dogs are a possibility. The engine will need to come out of the bike. Remove the top end, the flywheel and electrics, the clutch, shift mechanism and kick starter and a few other parts. THEN you are ready to split the gearbox to get to the crankshaft, gears and shift forks.
If you find any damaged gears, replace them in sets.
You will need an impact driver, flywheel puller, case splitter, torque wrench and factory service manual, plus the normal screwdriver, pliers, etc.. Alternate to the special tools is taking it to the dealer and say "Fix it". I normally tell people to take it to the shop just so they don't get into such an involved project and they have a knowing eye working on the engine.
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