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Question about 1996 Yamaha XV 535 Virago DX

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I am rebuilding the carbs. each carb has three jets that all interchange with each other. The main jets were #70 but the manual says they should be #13.5. What I need to know is a) what jets go where? and b) are the jets in both carbs the same? thanks, Tom

Posted by rthomasdawso on

  • rthomasdawso Aug 17, 2009

    I am rebuilding the carbs. Each carb has three jets that all interchange with each other. The main jets were #70 but the manual says they should be #13.5. What I need to know is a) what jets go where? and b) are the jets in both carbs the same?

  • rthomasdawso Aug 17, 2009

    I am repeating my question here because I sent it off by mistake before I had finished typing it.......here it is.....
    I am rebuilding the carbs. Each carb has three jets that all interchange with each other. The main jets were #70 but the manual says they should be #13.5. What I need to know is a) what jets go where? and b) are the jets in both carbs the same? I am referring to the Mikuni carbs. They don't seem to have an air idle ajustment screw. The manual refers
    an ajustable jet set at the factory but I couldn't find it. I need someone who is familiar with these carbs.




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Colin Stickland

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Both carbs have the same jets and should be the same .Now the main jet will have the biggest hole in it ,the compensator jet will have the medium size hole the other jet will be the idle jet so it will have the smallest hole .Now i havent seen one of these carbs but the main jet should be the one that has a passage that runs directly into venturi and the compensating jet should be in the same body/housing and in the base of this housing is another jet /restrictor where the petrol comes in .The mixture is only adjustable on idle by means of the air screw ,which is normally adjusted to one and a half turns out but dont overtighten it before unscrewing it ,then it can be be adjusted in or out a bit for the best evan idle ,but officially its supposed to be less than 2.0 CO2 but they do get checked on the inspection here in in spain

Posted on Aug 17, 2009


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How to rebuild a Tecumseh Carburetor

You can read this article at Jacks Small Engines as well.
Tecumseh Carburetors are fairly simple units. The float model carbs are easy to rebuild/repair. Before you start, one thing you will need is a factory repair manual.
There are some common problems with carburetors that should be checked before you start a rebuild. Many times the following items will correct the trouble your engine is having. You will still need a repair kit to replace certain gaskets and seals that should be replaced whenever disturbed.
One of the more common problems is the flooding of the carb. If this is your complaint check the float first. Remove the float bowl, float pin and remove the float. Be careful that you do not loosen the float needle valve. Now shake the float and listen for gas inside. If the float sloshes, replace it with a new one. Replace the float needle valve seat and adjust the float per the factory manual. Replace the float bowl gaskets.
If you are experiencing performance problems and suspect the carb, you will have to remove it from the engine to correct the problem. After the carb is off the engine there is one thing you need to check before going any further. Remove the float as above. Now hold the choke and throttle butterflies so that you can shake the carb without them making a sound. Shake the carb and listen for it to rattle. If you do not hear the rattle, the emulsion tube is stuck. This tube is sealed into the body of the carb during manufacturing and can not be replaced. The carburetor will need to be replaced. Also if the aluminum body of the carb is corroded inside, any rebuild will only be a temporary fix. Once the corrosion has started it can not be stopped.
If everything checks out up to here, a rebuild and cleaning should fix the carb. However there is one more tricky thing you will need to do. You must remove the welch plug on the side of the carb. This can be done by driving a sharpened small punch or screw driver through the plug and popping it out. Take extreme care when doing this procedure. There are two jets cast into the carb body under this welch plug. If you damage them the carb will have to be replaced. With the welch plug removed and the main jet(in the bowl nut) out the three holes that need to be cleaned are exposed. Using a piece of soft tag wire clean these holes. Now clean the complete carb with carb cleaner.
Re-assemble the carb. Make sure that the needle valve seat is completely down into its bore. After driving in the new welch plug, paint it with finger nail polish to seal it. Adjust the float height using a #4 twist drill as directed in the repair manual.
Now that your carb is rebuilt don't drop the ball on the 90 yard line. Replace the gaskets between the carb and the engine, and the carb and the air cleaner. One common mistake made is to fail to replace the fuel line between the carb and the fuel filter/tank. If the carb was full of dirt or varnish the fuel line will also be. Plus when the carb or fuel line is removed, the inside of the hose usually is damaged. Small fragments of hose materials can break loose and flow into the carb. This will ruin the job that you just completed.
After the carb is remounted to the engine it must be adjusted correctly. You will need a repair manual to do this. Remember that the idle circuit must be adjusted first. Without the idle circuit working correctly you will never get the main jet adjusted correctly

on Jan 14, 2010 • Garden

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check the carb main jets i just had that problem rebuilt the carb and fixed it. auto zone has rebuild kit for around 30 dollars easy to rebuild if you take a lot of pictures!! spray all the jets out with carb cleaner around 4 dollars

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Could be one or both of two things.

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2. More likely is that the main jet in the carb is clogged. At idle, high vacuum under the closed throttle plate in the carb causes fuel to flow thru the idle jet. As the throttle plate opens (as you step on the pedal), the vacuum under the plate dissipates, stopping the flow of fuel thru the idle jet, and the vacuum ABOVE the throttle plate increases, which is supposed to then draw fuel from the carb bowl thru the main jet in the carb. If the main jet is clogged with dirt, then it can idle just fine and die as soon as you step on the pedal.

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Sounds like dirt in the idle jet.I would get a carb rebuild kit and a can of carb cleaner and blast out every hole inside the carb.(Use safety glasses)Also make sure the float level is set perfectly to factory specs.Then if you have compressed air blow the carb out with that. Look inside the little idle jet and main jet holes and be sure nothing is blocking them. Install a good inline fuel filter before you start the bike.
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  • First I would go get stock plugs from the dealer. Plugs with incorrect heat range can cause overheating.
  • Drain the oil and replace the oil filter. Refill the crankcase with fresh oil. Also be sure exhaust gasses are getting through the exhaust pipes okay
  • Check the spark timing. and clean or replace the air filter.
Your mechanic probably installed carb rebuild kits in each carb. This is good but the correct main jets may not have come in the generic kits he bought. Too small a main jet can cause overheating. Pull the float bowl of whichever carb is easiest to get to. Remove the main jet and look to see what size it is. There will be a number i.e. 3.0 stamped on the jet. Call your dealers parts department and ask what size main jet is stock. The smaller the number, the smaller the jet. Re-jet the carbs if needed.

I hope you can rate this solution as a "FixYa". Thanks!

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