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1999 Suzuki GN125 wiring diagram

Connect a new generator /new regulator. no connector blocks or terminals fitted. three yellow wires from the gen. one blue and one green. The reg has three black, one red and one black/white. Suzuki GN125 1999.

Posted by David Grant on


5 Related Answers



  • 1450 Answers

SOURCE: what cables are what

black is ground red is power with key on yellow is power all the time blue white is amp remote wire you dont use this if you dont have amp.

Posted on Sep 23, 2008


john gagnon

  • 943 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag dryer MDE4000AYW change 3 prong to a 4 prong

HI thanks for your question. the red to red black to black white to white green goes to the fram of the dryer. thanks hope i was helpful. please rate my answer.

Posted on Oct 12, 2008


D. Floyd Kolb

  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: three wire system, going to a five terminal

The Rc and Rh should have a jumper wire between them let it in. and hook the red wire to one of them it does not matter which one as they are jumpered. The white wire goes on the "w" terminal and the Blue wire will go on the "G" green terminal to run your fan.
This should get you up and running again!

Posted on Nov 13, 2009


  • 141 Answers

SOURCE: Replacing an old electric range that was hard

White to bare wire, the bare wire runs to the common or ground in your breaker box.
Your black to black should go to a breaker in your panel.
The red to red goes to same breaker but to the opposite screw. 1 leg is from 1 side of buss bar and 1 from the other each 1 carries 120volts giving you 240 at the stove.
This can go as low as 220 and you will be okay.

Posted on May 19, 2010


  • 32 Answers

SOURCE: How to connect a four wire pigtail

The white wire goes to the middle terminal post on the dryer.
The red and black wires go to the outside terminal posts.Doesn't matter which.
The green ground wire needs to be attached to the outside metal case...anywhere. The easiest way is to put the eyelet on the screw that attaches the terminal cover plate when you put it back on. Sandwich it between the screw head, the plate and the case.
Hope that helps. Let me know if you need more info
Best, G

Posted on Aug 03, 2010

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You need to to disconnect from mains connection box on hob and fit conventional British brown, blue and green/yellow.
Inside the connection box you will see three live terminals,(L1,L2 & L3) there are usually some brass links to join them all up and then attach brown core to one of them. If the links are not there then you will need to fit 2.5mm links from a piece of wire.

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for short, just dont mind the color.. the black wire from the new plug goes to right in/on the appliance terminal block, the white from the new plug goes to both white in the middle of the same terminal block and the red wire from the new plug goes to left terminal block of the appliance therminal block and of coarse the green from the new plug goes to the appliance frame.. no need nor sense in trying to figure the wire color of the appliance as it does not mean anything really and it does not follow any rules nor standards..

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A puting my mp730 back togathere don,t remember were a blue wire go,s a srcew loop at each end of wire.

Blue wire or green wire? If you have trouble with your color vision, have somebody else verify this. Green wires (or green wires with yellow stripes) with ring terminals (especially if they have teeth like lock washers) are used for electrically bonding the metal parts of the system to the ground terminal. In that case, you would look for threaded holes in the metal parts of the frame.
A blue wire may go to a screw terminal block, typically for the hot terminal from the AC power connection along with a brown wire for neutral, but screw terminal blocks are rare in desktop printers. More commonly the AC power goes through a nylon two-pin or three-pin connector that mates with a corresponding connector on the power supply board, and the AC wires are usually black and white instead of blue and brown.

Hint for future projects: When I remove a grounding wire from a chassis, I put the screw back in the hole (several turns, not tight) to remind me where the ground connection goes. (A loosely inserted screw not holding anything is waiting for that wire.) If you really want to be sure, tie a green thread around the screw, and remove the thread when you are ready to replace the grounding wire.

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I have a 1962 ironhead sportster thats now 12volt system. magneto and generator,no battery. bosch voltage regulator. i know that the A from gen. goes to D+ on voltregulator,looks l;ike they had the F on...

Contact me directly at [email protected] and I'll send you a wiring diagram for a 1965 XLCH which is the same as your bike. But to answer your question directly:

"A" term on the gen. goes to D+ on the reg., red wire
"F" term on the gen. goes to DF on the reg., green wire
"B+" on the reg. is the common output and has two red wires one going to the light switch and one going to the rear brake light switch.
"61" on of reg. goes to ground through a capaciter or condensor. black wire
"D-" on the reg goes directly to ground. black wire

Good Luck

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How to connect a new era alternator voltage regulator wiring diagram.Or a schematic diagram of the charging system.

knowing the color codes can be a great help..usually in 12v reg system,from the regulator there are 6 white wire having a stripe codes,blue means neutral,green means field,black means ground to body,white means hot wired to +12v,yellow means to bat charging indicator going to instrument panel and finally red means to ignition....and always secure the regulators case to ground.

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You have to replace the dryer's 3-prong cord to 4-prong. Get yourself a 4-prong cord then on the terminal block at the rear of the dryer, connect the wires of the 4-prong cord to where the same wire colors (red, black, and white) of the 3-prong cord connects to. The only modification needs to be done is on the green/yellow stripe wire that connects from the white wire terminal to the dryer's cabinet. Remove this wire (green/yellow stripe) from the white wire terminal then connect it to the same wire color (green/yellow stripe) of the 4-prong cord and you are done. The new wire configuration would then be red, black, and white on the terminal block and green/yellow stripe wire on the cabinet.

Jun 16, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

I need to convert a 3 prong dryer cord to a 4 prong

Hi. Ok, with the rear terminal block cover open, you will see three wires. Black on one end, white in the middle and red on the other end. Use your 3/8′ nut driver to remove the nuts or a Phillips screwdriver to remove the bolts (depending on your dryer) and remove each dryer cord wire from the terminal block. When you remove the nuts or bolts, be careful not to drop them down into your dryer. Next, you need to disconnect the bonding jumper on your dryer. The bonding jumper is either a metallic strap (typically copper or copper clad) or a green wire that is connected between your dryer’s neutral (white wire) terminal and the green ground screw connected to your dryer’s frame. If you removed a ground wire instead of a bonding strap from the neutral terminal, you need to connect this ground wire to your dryer’s frame. Loosen the screws at the connector and pull the cord out. Now thread your new cord through the connector and tighten down. This only needs to be snug do not over tighten. Sometimes the old connector will work with the new cord and sometimes not. If not, your new cord will include a connector that you may use. Now,to hook up your new 4-wire dryer cord, connect each wire to the dryer’s terminal block matching color for color (white to white, black to black and red to red). Connect the green wire to the green ground screw on your dryer’s frame. Once the wires are connected, simply recover the space, and secure the cove with the screw provided.

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1 Answer

No power at the high/ low beam switch, so no head rear markers

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

On your concerns:
  • no headlight - check for +12 on blue wire from fusebox (preferably use a testlight rather than a voltmeter) to headlight switch; do the same to the blue / yellow wire from headlight switch to dimmer switch; the headlight switch is also responsible for switching the rear lights;
  • regulator connector - it is normal for the 3 yellow wires & the white wire to heat up as they pass the charging current to the battery and supply to the bike when running; cause of burning would be loose connection; it may be corrected by cleaning and tightening joint by crimping the female and force fit the male; a bit of electrical grease would be good;
  • wiring diagram - this version might be of help;
  • service manual - try here.
Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa

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Wiring system on GSXR400 gk71b

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

The yellow wires could be interchange. It does not matter which yellow goes to which connector terminal as it is a 3 phase alternator. The voltage regulator has a built-in diode pack that would convert all 3 incoming ACV to a single charging DCV.

It would be normal for them to heat up especially when charging condition. However, on older machines, this is more caused by corroded, tarnished or loose contacts. It would be to your advantage to clean and tighten these connections/connectors.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

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