Question about 2003 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic

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2003 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic how to change the spark plug cables

How to change plug wires on an 1100 V-Star @

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ollie reece

ollie reece-jones

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SOURCE: My 1100 Vstar back fires, and runs sluggish

is it carbed or injection buddy

Posted on Sep 20, 2009


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SOURCE: 02 yamaha vstar 1100, ran fine. started it the

Sounds like it may be drawing air around the intake somewhere. Let it idle and spray around carefully with wd-40 until it speeds up. This will reveal the leak.

Posted on Oct 11, 2009



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SOURCE: change vstar 1100 motor cycle tire

Howdy: Front, jack stand, pull calibers with brake hose connected and set aside. Unbolt axle clamps each side. You home free. For the rear,
juck stand, loosen rear axle nut. Pull calibers, set aside. Need to wiggle
tire backward so the driveshaft pulls out. thats about it. Puttin the front and rear back on you will need help for alignment. Goog luck - Doug

Posted on Dec 08, 2009


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SOURCE: spark plug gap for a 2006 vstar 1100

correct Gap is: .028
Good luck!

Posted on Mar 28, 2010

Testimonial: "thanks"


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SOURCE: how to change spark plugs on a 2005 vstar 1100

2005 V-Star 1100 Classic - Spark plugs

While someone may be able to change SP's w/o removing the gas tank, most normal humans will find doing so impossible. Removing the tank is easy. Here are the steps/tips for changing your SP's

1. remove the passenger seat - 1 screw at the rear and pull toward the rear of bike.
2. remove rider's seat - 2 screws and pull the toward rear of the bike.
3. turn gas valve to off; some gas will leak during the next steps, so have a wad of paper towels or your wife's best nighty to sop up the gas (maybe a tablespoon).
4. pinch the hose clamp that secures the gas hose to the gas valve body and slide the clamp away from the valve body stem.
5. pry the hose from the gas body stem; I used a very slim flat screwdriver. This is where you mop up the gas.
6. remove the two screws at the rear base of the gas tank; ALSO - there is a small black plastic connector on the front side of the battery case that connects the tank to the battery case. The head is round, about the size of a nickel. Push the center pin in the head of this connector down a bit with an allen wrench, for example. Then, pull the connector up and out. S/B easy. If you drop it into the chassis guts, good luck.
7. slide the tank toward the rear of the bike. Easy! There is an electrical cable between the bike chassis and the tank, so you cannot, or need not, "remove" the tank to the floor or workbench. I "balanced" the tank across the chassis over the battery box and secured it in place with some bungee cords. Secure the tank as it will slide off.
8. Tip: the rear SP is on the right side of the bike as you sit on it. The front SP is on the left side of the front cylinder.
9. Remove both plastic head covers, one over the rear SP and one over the front SP, pulling straight out away from the bike. They are held by rubber grommets only, but they were not easy for me to pull out. They are plastic, so if you pry them, be careful! Yamaha probably charges $50 for a new one (cost to mfg = 17 cents).
10. use the SP socket and the box end wrench in the bike's tool kit to remove the plugs. It's a bit tricky, but not bad.

Putting it all back together is not bad. I did it and am not a mechanic. Just take your time. Doing it yourself will probably save you $60 or more. Good NGK plugs at the auto parts store were $2.50 each. Probably $6.95 at the Yamaha dealer.

Posted on Mar 15, 2011

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