When I try to thread the right looper, I cant get it to go down the hole. the one on the left goes in just fine. I have always pushed the thread down just so far, then push the button for the air to push it on thru. It seems to blow it backwards now.

Hi, With out any info about the machine the sequence is:
1 Far right thread spool goes to lower looper.
2 Next to left spool goes to upper looper.
3 Next to left spool goes to right needle.
4 Far left spool goes to left needle.
As far a thread path, there are usually color coded dots associated with the different tension controls.

Make sure, Joe, that your needles are pushed up into needle bar shaft a's high a's they will go. Although same length, the left needle will appear higher than the one on right side when properly seated and tighten clamp screw securely. Check Lower Looper for proper threading--thread delivery eye of lower looper to far left "hidden" from sight. Use looper tweezers and it helps threading it. The thread then gets pulled to right side and goes front to back of that hole in front of you on lower looper. Follow threading guide on the cover door to right of your serger. Hope this helps. Jimmy

Serger may have a threading diagram inside the front looper cover which should show the various thread eyelets that you need to pull the threads through and they may be numbered one to 4 also to indicate order of threading. The diagram is usually colour coded to match the tension dial colours and serger usually has colour dots on the different thread eyes to help you follow the thread path for each thread.

This video is great and hopefully will help you http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zszJYQe2aws&feature=related, it has lay in tensions while yours has dials so just pull the thread around the dial right to left and then across to the next thread eye and this should pull the thread into tension. Dials are usually all set to 5 for normal stitch formation.

On my serger you thread up in the following order: top looper (second from right dial), bottom looper (right hand dial), then right needle, left needle; this video shows all threading going from right to left however, so if you have a numbered diagram inside your thread cover, then certainly use that order. But always loopers before needles.

Raise the thread aerial first before you start, put the cones onto the thread spools and if you have any cone holders (little plastic triangles) put them on the spools first to steady the cones. Now for each thread, take the thread tail from the cone, up through the aerial thread guide, then follow the coloured dots and take this down the front of the serger putting it into each coloured thread guide, through looper then up under the raised pressure foot. Repeat for next looper, then the needles.

Pull all 4 threads out under the foot to the left, lower foot, then chain off a little to start and test sew on fabric, adjusting the tensions if you need to.

Other adjustments are stitch length (usually a knob on right beside the flywheel numbered 1-4, blade position, a dial either left or right of the blade, press on the blade to release the tension on it before you try and move it. And differential feed, this is also a knob numbered 0.5 to 2 usually. If you can't see this on the right by flywheel then open up fabric plate (left cover) and look in there for these two adjustments.

I would suggest you start with tensions on 5, and stitch length of 2-3, and test sew on scraps of the fabric you wish to overlock. You can then either move the blade to cut wider or narrower to suit and adjust the two looper tensions if you need to close up the thread on the cut edge. There is no black and white settings as each fabric will behave a little differently, generally you adjust the looper tensions a bit until the stitch is encasing the cut edge and you have a seam width that suits the weight of the fabric.

Differential feed leave on zero unless you find you need it when a loose weave fabric goes wavy, then turn it down to close up the feeding. Sergers have two feed dogs, one before and after the foot and turning differential knob changes the ratio of feed between the two so either stretches the fabric, or pushes it together as it goes through the stitching sequence. So by turning differential feed up to 1.5 or 2 you are stretching the fabric and you can do a narrow rolled hem edge that is all fluted (lettuce edging).

I hope this helps you out a bit, if you are completely new to this machine and have never used a serger then I always suggest taking a class from a local dealer, it is really worth the money and time as they are quite different to sewing machines but once mastered, really change the dynamics of sewing and techniques are much more like commerical production with flat construction etc.

Then it's one of two things. First try setting your lower looper tension on 3 and see if that works. If not set it back on 4 and cut ALL your threads and re-thread the machine STARTING with the UPPER looper, then the lower looper, then the right needle, last the left needle if you're sewing a 4 thread overlock stitch. Make sure the threads aren't twisted in the thread guide. Make sure the lower looper thread is OVER the elbow on the upper looper and over the upper looper thread. Let me know if this works. We'll work until we get it fixed!

You might take a look on ebay item with bernina 700d/800dl instruction manual

How to Thread Juki MO-134 Serger from watching lady at Lyles. Turn upper blade up. Push in first then turn up.It makes threading easier. Blue Thread upper looper first. Pull thread through tension knob. Don'tjust lay it there. (She thought that is what I must have done) Orange Thread lower looper next. Pull thread through tension knob as inthreading upper looper. Adjust lower looper so it is right nextto upper looper so that their points are almost together and directly belowsewing needles. Lower looper will be in front of upper looper (I believe). With tread from upper looper pulledback, slightly lift lower looper above upper looper and thread. I think this isright. Pull thread back with other thread. Tension is the key. Remember that. Yellow: Thread left needle first.Remember tension. Pull thread through curled wire on left side of needle arm. Green: Thread right needle. Rememberabout tension. Pull thread through curled wire on right side of needle arm. b> Note: Before sewing turn the wheel tomake sure the stitches are going together correctly.

I can share the information for my BabyLock Imagine in hopes that it will help you.

There are options of 2 or three threads.

For the 2 thread the serger must have a 2-thread converter- aka, auxiliary looper or subsidiary looper.

This is a spring type mechanism that fits in a small hole at the top of the upper looper. It 'tricks' the upper looper into thinking it is threaded. It must be engaged by connecting to a small hole in the upper looper

Set up the serger for a 2 or 3 thread right or left needle.

Stitch width - wide if you are using the left needle and normal if for the right needle; length 1 - 3mm.

Needle tension loosened and looper tension normal.

Disengage the cutting blade..

Set the differential feed at normal.

Hope this will help.

Here is a little jingle to remember as far as the order of threads to thread...
Upper looper, lower looper, left needle, right.
Usuall if you give numbers to the threads from left to right as 1,2,3,4 , you would thread it in the order of 3, 4, 2, 1 . Also when threading the loopers be sure the lower looper thread goes over the top of the upper looper thread as it goes out the back.
Hope this helps.

I have just learned this :)
Either needle thread may be engaged for 2-thread serging.
1. Open the front cover and cutting blade cover, cut the upper looper thread just above the threading guide ( this is plate that has two holes for the threads) Raise the presser foot and pull out the clipped thread from under the foot. Remove upper thread from the machine (or you can leave the cone thread on, it doesn't matter).
2. Rotate the handwheel to bring the upper looper to its lowest position.
3. Rotate the subsidiary looper up and to the left, then slip the end into the upper looper thread eye from backside.(this sounds complicated, yes? but it is very simple : the looper has a counter part that is spring-locked to move from left to right and right to left. This is the little claw-looking part of the looper that when in the postion to serg with four threads is to the right side of the looper. It looks like a scorpion's tale. If you can't figure which part it is, use your finger to probe the looper and you'll feel it give a little. This part needs to be moved to the left - it will not slide over, but swing up and over and down, like an arch. Then, where the thread comes out of the looper is where you want the little claw-like part to hook into.)
4. Close the covers. Decrease the needel tension - this depends on what the stitch length is. Stitch length: 2-3, stitch width: 3.0 = L needle n/a, R needle 1; upper looper n/a, lower looper 5
stitch length: 2-3, stitch width: 5.0 = L needle 0, R needle n/a, upper looper n/a, lower looper 3.5

Those are for a flatlock stitch - for a 2-thread rolled edge :
Stitch length: 0.5, stitch width: M = L needle n/a, R needle 4.5, upper looper n/a, lower looper 3.5
Stitch lenght: 1.0, stitch width: M = L needle n/a, R needle 4, upper lopper n/a, lower looper 3.0

If you have any questions, e-mail me at [email protected]

Solution taken from "Handbook for Huskylock Sewing Machine Models 1001L/1000L/1000"

1. Raise the presser foot by using presser foot lever. When the presser foot is raised, the two thread tension discs in the thread tension control panel are released so that thread passes freely between them. Otherwise thread tension may not be correct.

Important! When threading the needle, always be sure to lift the presser foot lever, and also take care to thread in the proper order.

Threading order:
1. Upper looper thread (green)
2. Lower looper thread (blue)
3. Double chain stitch looper thread (purple) in case of 5 thread stitch or double chain stitch
4. Right needle thread (red)
5. Left needle thread or double chain needle thread (yellow)

Caution!
Because the left thread tension dial (yellow) is used for either the left needle or the double chain stitch needle, these needles will never be used at the same time.

Upper looper (green) sequence:
1. Thread holder (silver triangle openings attached to thread holder stand)
2. Thread guide (flat silver clips just behind thread tension disc)
3. Thread tension disc (circular knobs with numbers for tension setting)
4. Pull thread around upper looper guide and upper looper
5. Pull thread into hole of upper looper

Lower looper (blue)
Repeat 1, 2, 3.
4. Pull thread around guide (see color coded chart inside front serger cover).

Easy threading mechanism (for lower looper)
1. Pull out the lower looper threading lever
2. Thread the lower looper and position the thread on hook of the lower looper
threading lever.
3. Push the lower looper threading lever back to its basic position while
holding the end of the thread.

Caution:
When returning the lower looper threading lever, always make sure that the two
blue triangle marks (directional arrows) meet each other.

Right needle thread (red)
Left needle thread (yellow)
Important: Thread the needles after threading of lower looper and upper looper.
First raise the presser foot lever, and then thread the needle threads in order shown in color coded thread guide.