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B
Ball Posted on Feb 08, 2018
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V4044C Motorized valve:Supply to hot water fine but when hot water satisfied/stat turned off little heat to the rads. Upstairs rads warm but not hot, downstairs rads cold. Any ideas what is wrong?

This is a new valve installed as a replacement for exactly the same model which had failed. Everything else remains the same. Has a thermostat failed as well and thus no call for hot water to rads?

1 Answer

Paul Carew

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  • Heating & Co... Master 3,808 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 09, 2018
Paul Carew
Heating & Co... Master
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Joined: Jul 20, 2008
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Check the pump is working . or its air in the pump check you have power to room stat

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 3 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 18, 2009

SOURCE: 04 civic heater blows cold air at idle

you should have hot water on all rad. hoses when the motor is running at a norm. temp. the water is not going through the heater core like it should. you have cutoff valve bad low water are a stopped heater.try a hoter thermostat if none of the above are true.

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Anonymous

  • 9 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 27, 2009

SOURCE: 3 liter mazda mpv overheating

You probably never cleaned the cooling system out.

If you have not get it done by pros.

It seems something is blocking the flow. If the water pump went bad you will know. Rarely ever heard a impeller breaks off like you think. The bearings and the seal break first.

Check and see also if the heater valve is working.

As for the over heating even new thermostats fail. Reverse flush is needed or the procan measure the pressure in the radiator cooling system and edetermine if there is a engine pressure problem. Tools and experience is the key in the game of diagnosis.







wfg8.com

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Oct 23, 2009

SOURCE: Low Heat on 1999 Mercury Cougar

I had the same problem with my 199 cougar 2.0 4 cyl.
The problem was air in the cooling system.

I had to bleed the air out of the system, and now the heat
works much better.

I put a flushing tee between the back of the thermostat and
the heater core, and made sure that water flowed out of there.
Then I disconnected the small hose from the top of the coolant
resevoir, and poured water into it using a funnel until the coolant
level started to rise in the coolant resevoir. Then started the car, left the radiator cap off, and let it come up to temperature (thermostat open)
then over a period of about 5 minutes, periodically "goosed" the engine to clear any remaining air bubbles.

The heat is MUCH better now.

Anonymous

  • 118 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 01, 2010

SOURCE: i have a 1998 ford f-150 and no heat. i have

You just might have an air lock. Try bleeding the system from the heater hose at the firewall. Losen one hose a little, and at operating temp. open slightly to let air out. You will lose some coolant, but just refill the rad. Now, both hoses should get hot.

Anonymous

  • 1586 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 28, 2010

SOURCE: BOTTOM RAD HOSE COLD TOP HOT. ENGINE TEMP ABOUT

Did you burp the air out of the system after changing those parts? It sounds like the thermostat isn't opening which is why the lower hose is still cold. Click my screenname, go to my tips and tricks, and choose the one about burping the cooling system - it may help you out.

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Related Questions:

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1answer

My heater blows warm air not hot air upstairs

Check the water flow through the heater coil. Usually there is a solenoid valve that only opens when heat is called for, if this valve is not opening fully then the hot water getting in will cool quickly only heating the air a little.
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Its takeing a long time for some of radiators to get hot,and when they do they dont get that hot ,iv flushed the system out,could it be heating by-pass valve in the wrong position

hi there

start by turning off the rads that are geting hot,do the colder rads now get hot? try banging them gentle with a rubber mallet around the valves and across the rad.

If the rads are upstairs and the boiler below it may be the pump is showing signs of giving up.
is the circuit balanced correctley?
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Runs fine til the temp out gets hot enough then dies. Wait ten mins and it will start again and run for a few mins then dies again

you didn't say if it was hot on the temp gauge? no matter, it sounds like you have a stuck t-stat. when the engine is cold, a mechanical valve keeps the water from coming out of the engine block until warmed up, then opens and lts the cooler water in. this cools down the engine and the colder temp of the water shuts the valve again. this happens constantly while the engine runs, and if your t-stat is stuck, the engine heats up the water in the block, but with nowhere to go, simply overheats the motor. a good repair book will locate the thermostat housing for you and should you the repair procedure. (i assume you have checked the water in the rad. low water will give you same symptoms). good luck.
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We had no heat in rads downstairs we changed pump and flushed system no we have heat downstairs but not up any ideas?

Make sure the air is bled from the upstairs rads.
[air = top of rad is cold & bottom hot]

If you need to balance the rads to maintain an even flow through all then :-
Turn off all rads [one valve fully open and the other closed] Get heat going and open each rad valve, in turn, about 1 or 2 turns. Start with upstairs. The position you need to get to is when the return pipe fron each rad is a few degrees below the flow pipe. Adjust each rad valve to get this effect a few times may be necessary
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I can only get heating to the radiators upstairs, not downstairs

balance the rads.
upstair radiators turn all valves off,heat will then divert downstairs,open valves upstairs 4 turns on locksheilds and number 4 on trvs if u have any.
then if that does not work get a combi or powerflush.
if u cant afford then drain a little from rads,get x300 sludge remover from plumb shop and put in header tank(not hot water tank).
then fill system up and repeat balancing.

www.jollygreenplumbingmachine.co.uk
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Heating circuit getting hot when hot water is running

Check to see if diverter valve is in domestic mode or heating mode.
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3 out of 7 rads working with hot water

This is a flow problem within the system and you have ruled out the two major problems already.
asuming the pump has been fitted in the correct way round and the pump isolation valves are open fully. have you tried closing down the radiator valves upstairs and forcing the flow around the downstairs circuit? also is there any zone valves on the circuit not opening.
Is it a conventional type system with a header tank ?
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the problem there a relay stuck or thermostat bring on the pump & you can lower your high limit aquastat!! also the flow valves can bypass hot hot water risers time to put in a seperate water heater domestic coil are not energy efficient !!!! aquastat high limit set @ 180f deg low limit set @ 140f deg!!!
good luck!!! tim
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