Question about 2011 Harley Davidson FLHTCUTG Tri Glide Ultra Classic
Changing rear brake pads on a 2011 tri-glide ultra @
SOURCE: replace rear brake pads
Remove right saddlebag, pull the two caliper mounting bolts and remove the caliper. Do not open bleeder or disconnect line. You will need to push a large screwdriver between the old pads before removing them in order to push the pucks back into the caliper or the new pads will not spread enough to reinstall. Then pull the two smaller bolts from the caliper and the pads will fall out. The pads are different for inside and outside, so pay attention, and remember, after reinstalling, before riding, be sure to pump brake pedal, and it may take a few stops before brakes stop as effectively as before.
Posted on Nov 10, 2008
Not too hard - Undo the two bolts on the caliper and then seperate the caliper and pull the old ones out. Insert the new ones and put the bolts back in to hold the caliper back together and then install them back on the bike with the two retaining bolts. Use a bit of lock tight (Blue) on the threads. Warning do not let anyone apply pressure on the brakes while you have them off the bike or you will have a mess and/or a problem.
Posted on Jun 21, 2009
You have an air bubble in the master cylinder. If you are lucky you can wiggle the brake pedal and get it to move into the reservoir . Mechanics push brake fluid backwards from the brake cylinder to the master cylinder ( with a special pump ) to remove the air . If you have access, you can lay down plastic and rags and loosen the hollow bolt attaching the brake hose to the master cylinder ( about 1/8 turn) now pump the pedal once or twice. Re tighten the bolt while slowly pushing down on the pedal, re bleed the system at the back and usually this will get the bubble out.
Posted on May 23, 2010
Usually when a brake squeals it's because someone has gotten wax or something on the rotor. The only way to stop the squeal is to install new pads and clean the rotor with brake cleaner prior to installing the new pads. Sometimes you even have to "break the glaze" on the rotor.
You can try taking the pads out and sanding them real good. Then do the stuff I said to do above. Might work.
Posted on Jul 11, 2010
To change the pads on your bike, look at the caliper and you'll see two bolts that hold it into the caliper bracket. Remove these two bolts. Rock the caliper in towards the wheel and back out a few times to loosen everything up and carefully remove the caliper from the bracket without disturning the pads or the anti-rattle hardware.
Take special note of how the anti-rattle hardware is positioned in the caliper bracket. Now, replace the pads and hardware with new parts. Make sure you install the inside pad with the fiber side towards the rotor. Don't laugh, you'd be surprised at how many I've seen installed backwards.
Now, next you must get the piston pressed back into it's bore. I use either a large C-clamp or a large pair of slip joint pliers to press the piston back into it's bore. Use rags or thin pieces of wood to protect the finish on your caliper. Once you get the piston all the way back down in the bore, carefully slide it back down over the pads without disturbing them. Replace the two screws and torque them to 35-40 foot pounds.
Slowly depress the rear brake pedal until you get a nice firm brake pedal. Make sure you test the brakes before you ride the bike at any high speeds. Failure to test the brakes for proper operation can cause severe injury or death.
Posted on Aug 16, 2010
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