How to bleed clutch on 2008 Yamaha 1300 - Yamaha Motorcycles

SOURCE: 1996 Yamaha Royal Star XVZ 1300 oil clutch

10w40 or 10w 50. Either will do fine.

SOURCE: i need to know if a clutch from a 1980's 1300

Can't tell you for sure but look on HLSM.com(the marina one) and there are 3-4 sites under this hlsm site once your at it that let you look up with actual dealer microfiche diagrams that you could see if both use the same amount of steel/fiber plates or if the part # crosses over to each,it still could be applicable as long as the outer spokes on the fiber plates were'nt smaller in width to the cut outs on the outside diameter of aluminum clutch basket that they go into,because if they are these smaller tabbed plates would "hammer back and fourth on or in the basket" every time you gas on it or let off (when you look at it form the side when you have the center hub that the spring loaded screws in a circle hold down,the skinnyer tabs on the plate would be hitting left to right on the wider aluminum outer basket which WILL cut wavy grooves and cause the aluminum that is hammered off when this happens to go thru the oil pump "and you know that some of this gritt will multiply and cause alot more abrasive gritt" which kills a motor as it passes thru everything in there thats real expensive and deadly to the life of the engine.hlsm.com will let you see what you need,the first subsite under,i think it is POWER SPORTS is easy:just click Yam the STREET,then Year,etc.simple and good to use,and you can print only if you go top left of your screen to FILE then hit print,the site wont let you print a diagram if you try to just right click your mouse to print so you have it next to you when working on the bike.good luck,wallace

SOURCE: i have a2000 royalstar 1300 and i need to bleed

Step (1)
Step (2)
Step (3)
Step (4)
Step (5)
Step (6)
Step (7)
Step (8)
Step (9)It's been a couple of years, maybe, and the fluid in the eye of the clutch-side reservoir looks more like mocha java than peachy chardonnay. Time for a flush-and-bleed job on the old hydraulic-clutch system?
Relax. It's a closed hydraulic system, just like the front and rear brakes. But why is the fluid brown (1)? The petroleum-based goo labeled DOT 3 or DOT 4 is hygroscopic, which means it absorbs water. That water eventually turns the fluid brown in a sort of plain-to-see maintenance check. Flat beer means replace the keg. Same deal here.
There are other reasons to give a hydraulic clutch some attention. Is the level in the reservoir going down quickly? Check the seal around the actuator. This guy lives in a tough environment--with the rubber O-ring that seals the slave cylinder contending with engine heat, road grime, excess chain lube and myriad other evils. Maybe the engagement point of the clutch moves erratically, or according to changes in the weather. Before you buy new clutch plates, check the actuating system.
Let's get on with it, then. You don't want more crummy DOT 3 or DOT 4 running through the system, so carefully evacuate the reservoir (2). We use those cheap nasal aspirators--parents know to look for these between the tippy cups and the Bag Balm--to **** out the goop. Then refill the reservoir with fresh fluid (3). Check the condition of the brake fluid you're using, too. Fluid left sitting in a previously opened container can be as contaminated as what you're trying to replace. So splurge: buy a new bottle.
Shift your attention to the slave cylinder. Sling your box-end wrench over the bleeder nipple and attach a length of clear plastic hose (4). Drop the free end of the hose in a suitable container (5).
Reach up and pump the clutch lever two or three times and then hold it to the bar (6). Crack the fitting (7); open it just enough to allow the fluid to move into the hose. It may take some time to know when to close the bleeder screw again. Unlike a brake system, there'll be no feedback at the lever to let you know when line pressure drops. Watch the hose carefully and close the bleeder an instant before you think the fluid will stop moving. If you don't, air bubbles and assorted grunge can be dragged back into the system through the bleeder.
Continue watching the hose until you see a change in the color of the fluid (8). Sometimes it's subtle--at least it will be if you haven't let this job go for too long. Keep bleeding the system in steps. Grip the clutch lever and pump two or three times, crack the bleeder screw, watch the line for bubbles, then close. Rinse and repeat for a healthy, shiny coat.
Track fluid level in the reservoir throughout the procedure. **** air into the system now and you've got to start all over again. Once all the old fluid and air bubbles are gone, fill the reservoir according to the markings (9). Because it's possible for the clutch lever to feel firm with air in the system, which will not allow the clutch to fully disengage, test your work by putting the bike in gear with the engine off. See if the clutch disengages enough to let the bike roll slightly. Wet clutches are grippy until the engine is running, but you should still be able to feel the difference. Finally, make double-sure the bleeder fitting is tight and you've cleaned up any spilled fluid because DOT 3 and DOT 4 are corrosive.
Source: http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/122_0306_hydraulic_clutch_service/index.html

You can also attach a plastic tube to the bleed line and fill a cup/glass/Jar with the Dot 3 or Dot 4 fluid. This way you can pump the clutch slowly to rid the system of air bubbles. Make sure the reservoir does not **** air! As stated above or you will have to start the process over.

Good luck!

SOURCE: Where is the clutch fluid resivor?

You have 2 issues....clutch switch not working properly...the plunger needs to pop out in order for you to start in gear.
The clutch sponginess is due to air in clutch fluid or low fluid level in the reservoir at the clutch lever.....refill the reservoir and bleed the clutch slave at the rubber flap on top of left crankcase cover.

SOURCE: I need to bleed the clutch on a 2008 Freightliner

Need two people to do it. Fill master cylinder pump up the clutch pedal and hold it while some one opens the bleeder valve. Hold the pedal down until fluid or air stops flowing, close valve and repeat the process until you got a good clutch pedal.