Bandit 1200 in garage since October will not start ,am I looking at electrical or fuel problem
Tried spraying easystart in the airbox, but not sure how much as the air filter is in place ,is this a job for a mechanic or could I manage it,maybe I could try simple procedures and tips. Bike was running fine when last used in October
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Check the kill switch rock it back and forth to be sure it is making contact. Open it up and spray it with contact cleaner that is safe for plastics available at radio shack. After sitting for four years I would start with the fuel system. New filter and NEW GAS and check the fuel lines for cracks and leaks. I have seen bikes that sat for 6 months and needing the carburetors cleaned and reset.
your gonna want to remove the air filter, and spray into airbox. Peak inside first, look for the little hole that goes thru to the carb, aim for that location. And be quick with everything, starting fluid evaporates fast
You should adopt the habit of turning the fuel tap off when not riding, this will isolate the gravity pressure from the fuel in the tank.
The jets control fuel flow when engine is running,
I would think your float needle and seat is worn in one or more carby's. try a spray through of carby cleaner by turning fuel tap off and taking fuel drain screws out of all 4 carby's, disconnect fuel hose from fuel tap, allowing fuel to drain from lines and carby's. Spray carby cleaner into fuel hose and allow to flow out through all four carby's, allow to drain fully and dry out. Replace drains and fuel line and let fuel flow to carby's and see if a spray clean has done the job.
If not, inspect each floatbowl needle and seat. The link below gives exploded views of the bike in sections, with part names to help you get to them. Cheers.
- Take the seat off. - Unscrew the two bolts holding the back of the tank. - Remove (unscrew) the petcock handle. - Lift the back of the tank. I'm not sure the air filter can be accessed without removing the whole tank. If you have to remove it, it just slides back and up - there are no screws in the front of the tank. Pay attention not to disconnect the hoses/wires if you are just lifting the tank, or disconnect them all if you have to take the tank off. - Unscrew and remove the battery cover if necessary. - Unscrew the airbox cover (two screws in top corners). - Pull the airbox cover back and remove it. It's held at the lower end by two plastic "teeth" - no screws. - Remove the old filter and put in the new one. - Put everything back in reverse order.
Refer to the microfiche above for parts layout. This is a simple procedure that shouldn't take more than 30 minutes even with tank removal.
Try looking for leaks in the rubber that joins the carb to the cylinder, easiest way to do this is spray a bit of easy start around the rubber area when cranking the engine over. try squirting a bit of easystart into the airbox air intake first to see if it will start with that first, if it does then you need to look at your carb settings as per manual.
Sounds the pilot passages and or the needl jet air passages are blocked on the carb for that cylinder that is not fireing.
The carb should be removed from the bike and disassembled and dipped in carb cleaner. What I think works best for cleaning carb is Yamaha's Carb Dip I mix it 50/50 with warm water. All the rubber parts must be removed as they will be swell and be damaged by the dip. After you dip the carb will need to verify all passages with spray carb clean to make sure the fluid will make it through the intended passage.
try using some either (starting fluid) spray it in the airbox and see if the condition improves. if it does troubleshoot fuel delivery, start at the tank and make sure you are getting fuel to the carbs. if you are then chances are your carburetors need to be cleaned
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