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I do not know the chain setting for this bike. I want to know the height from the swingarm to the tightest point on the chain when you lift it up with your fingers if the bike is in an free standing position with no one on top off it.
I usually adjust tension by lifting the chain from rest to 1/2 inch & when it starts to resist its at that point !
make sure you adjust both sides of the rear axle the same amount or the wheel will be out of alignment!
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hey Dominico, This is the way PROFESSIONAL mechanics do a chain/sprocket check and drive chain alignment and tension.. Proper chain tension is very important to the life of your chain and sprockets and performance of your bike. First, you need to check to see if the chain/sprockets need replacing. (Chain and sprockets are ALWAYS replaced as a set (-all-3)..if you replace a chain on worn sprockets.. the chain will stretch out QUICK.. and if you put new sprockets with a worn chain.. the sprockets will be worn out QUICK too!!) ...To do this..the bike needs to be on the center stand or bike stand...NOT on the side stand...
...now...--remove the chain guard-- next..Sprocket check time - take one hand and squeeze the chain (grab the chain above and below the swingarm) at the point between the axle and the swingarm bolt.. as hard as possible. to take all the slack out of the chain and put the tension completely around the back sprocket.. while you are squeezing the chain as hard and tight as possible.. - with your other hand - try to lift/pull the chain off the rear sprocket.. IF you can pull the chain off enough to see if there is a .200" or 5mm max. gap between the chain and sprocket - under the chain... or MORE THAN A HALF a tooth groove under the chain..or the chain pulls up more than two teeth...OR the teeth on either sprocket are "pointed thin" or rounded inside....you need to replace the chain/sprockets.
...ONCE you are sure the chain/sprockets are good..its time to CORRECTLY align and adjust the chain tension. Loosen the axle nut.. DO NOT remove it.. now - tap it gently to make sure its loose...loose the chain adjuster nuts.. back them off a good bit, but do not remove them...you may,also need to loose the rear brake caliper mounts ..you should be able to move the rear wheel forward and backward with your hand.(this is to assure you have sufficient "looseness" to make the proper adjustment...NOW - pull the rear tire backwards until it stops.. - run the adjuster nut(s) until they are just snug..ALIGNMENT - This is CRITICAL - (did you remove the chain guard yet?) - do that now. You must be able to see down the entire length of the chain (above the swingarm)..The chain MUST RUN IN A STRAIGHT LINE!! .. The little marks on the swingarm are just "guides".. never use them as perfect.. the only way to assure CORRECT ALIGNMENT is a visual check of the chain to make sure its in a straight line!!!! - ...ANY bend, crook, or mis-alignment will cause premature wear and tear, and make it harder for your engine to make it turn. - Now - Rotate the wheel and find the tightest point of the chain... there is one, and its normal... LEAVE the tight point located between the two sprockets on the top of the swingarm. This is where you will "feel" for the correct tension. The biggest thing most people miss when adjusting the tension is having the AXEL/NUT and the SWINGARM PIVOT SHAFT and the COUNTERSHAFT C/L (front sprocket shaft) IN A STRAIGHT LINE - ALL THREE ARE ON THE SAME PLANE!!!!! . NOW, You may have to get a buddy to help pull the swing arm up.. (I use a tie down strap through the rear wheel and over the seat pulled tight enough to make AND KEEP the STRAIGHT LINE!!)
..Once you have established the straight line - --- - --- - and MADE SURE the chain is RUNNING STRAIGHT on both sprockets.. NOW _ its time to adjust the tension. There WILL be a tightest and loosest point of the chain..(normal).. you MUST adjust the tension using the TIGHTEST point of the chain....set the tension so you can move the chain up and down (total movement) about 1 3/8 inch to a max of 2 inches!! Once you have established the chain is straight and the tension is correct, its time to TIGHTEN EVERYTHING in order... start with snugging the axle nut.. then snug the adjuster nuts more..-- DOUBLE CHECK you chain alignment.. now - tighten the axle - TIGHT!!... tighten the adjuster nuts..lock down the lock nuts.. tighten the caliper.. TRIPLE CHECK the alignment... double check the tension...double check all the nuts... install the chain guard... REMOVE whatever you use the keep the straight line straight..
TRIPLE CHECK ALL NUTS!!! NOW ROTATE THE REAR WHEEL AND CHECK FOR BINDING AND MAKE SURE THE CHAIN IS WORKING CORRECTLY AND NOT TOO LOOSE..
KNOW you have done a job correctly!! (I am a factory trained mechanic, race engine builder, port work guy, race tuner.).. GREAT JOB!!
Loosen the rear axle nut, turn the adjuster screws on both sides of axle evenly until chain has approximately 3/4" on street bikes, 2" on dirt bikes. Be sure to rotate the wheel to find the tightest point in the chain, (chains stretch unevenly), and make your adjustment at that point. Re-tighten the axle nut and tensioner jamb nuts if present.
Loosen the axle nut and the lock nuts for the chain adjusters on each side of the swingarm. Turn the adjuster to move the rear wheel to the rear to tighten the chain.
You want to adjust the chain so that you have 1 inch up and down play in the chain. By this I mean 1/2" above center and 1/2" below center of the chain as it sits on the bike, 1" up and down inclusive. Adjustment should be made at the point where the chain is the tightest. Roll the rear wheel while checking the chain tension. Find the tightest point to make your adjustment.
Move both chain adjusters the same amount to keep wheel straight within the swingarm. Once adjusted, roll the wheel a couple of turns and check the adjustment of the chain again. Once finished, tighten adjuster lock nuts and retorque the axle nut to 50 foot pounds of torque.
Loosen off the axle nut (B) until it is only lightly tightened. Wind out the chain adjuster bolts (C)
evenly on both sides until you reach the desired tension. You will see
the top of the chain rise as you wind out the adjuster bolts.on pic below
Once you reach the correct tension, make sure both sides are evenly
spaced (using the marker grooves on the adjuster blocks). Squeeze the
chain against the swingarm with your hand to hold everything in place
and tighten up the axle nut.Tighten up the chain adjuster lock nuts. Now you're ready to ride!
Tighten up the chain adjuster lock nuts and thats it buddy measure the chain on the swing anr amr it should be 45mm slack on the swing and arm where the chain slider is
set the bike on the centre stand,loosen the rear axle nut,on either side of the swingarm at the rear there will be a small adjuster nut(normally with a lock nut on it)undo the locknut,then turn each ajuster 1/4 turn at a time untill the chain has about 1 1/2 inches freeplay up and down,make sure when you do this that the axle alignment marks are exactly the same on both sides of the swingarm,once you have the chain adjusted to the right tension,tighten the rear axle bolt and replace the splitpin(if fitted),then tighten the locknuts on the chain adjusters,thats it,hope this helps
To adjust the chain you need to make sure you make the adjustment with the swing arm parallel to the ground, (this is the tightest point in the arc of the swing arm moving rotation), at that point you want to be able to put two finger between the chain and the swing arm at the swing arm pivot bolt. This will insure proper adjustment every time. The best thing to do is have somebody sti on the bike off the stand to make sure the swing arm is at its MAXIMUM arc, otherwise you stand a significant chance of over tightening it and this can and WILL cause SERIOUS damage to your engine. You will rip the output shaft bearings out of the center cases. You also want too make sure you have proper wheel alignment as well. There are marks on the rear of the swing arm for adjusting the chain, make sure you have the marks on the adjusters in the same location on BOTH sides of the swing arm. Please let me know if you need further assistance. Regards, RSelvy
On the older Sportsters you check the chain for freeplay on bottom.shuold be 1in - 1 1/2 in freeplay.Check in a couple dif spots. to tighten loosen axle nut,loosen jam nut ,turn bolt in until correct freeplay is there turning each side the exact same amount.Retighten and measure from axle to a set point on each side to insure wheel is lined up close.Remember this isnt rockett science you dont have to be percice just close.Check freeplay at least once a week and every ride for awhile after a new chain is put on. BTW I ride a old Harley too
Every 600 miles or 1000 km. Your motorcycle’s Owner’s Manual will have directions. You need to check the tension at several points along the chain’s travel around the engine and wheel sprockets. The tension should be set so that the loosest spot and the tightest spot are still within the slack tolerance specified in the owner’s manual. If the tightest spot is at the tightest allowed and the loosest is beyond the tolerance then it’s time to get a new chain and sprocket set. ,
Every 600 miles or 1000 km. Your motorcycle’s Owner’s Manual will have directions. You need to check the tension at several points along the chain’s travel around the engine and wheel sprockets. The tension should be set so that the loosest spot and the tightest spot are still within the slack tolerance specified in the owner’s manual. If the tightest spot is at the tightest allowed and the loosest is beyond the tolerance then it’s time to get a new chain and sprocket set. ,
Every 600 miles or 1000 km. Your motorcycle’s Owner’s Manual will have directions. You need to check the tension at several points along the chain’s travel around the engine and wheel sprockets. The tension should be set so that the loosest spot and the tightest spot are still within the slack tolerance specified in the owner’s manual. If the tightest spot is at the tightest allowed and the loosest is beyond the tolerance then it’s time to get a new chain and sprocket set. ,
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