Why does charger spark on pluging it to charge point on lithium bike battery sorry this is on pedal bike not. Motorbike

not car, is electric EV motory cycle or EV moped (it has pedals)
batteries are charged and then load tested with a tool called the same
powered by 1000-watt motor powered by a 48-volt 17AH Samsung battery.
SAMSUNG Lithium Ion 48v
not 12v.
so bad charger, wrong battery put there or battery is bad
we cant see what IS there blind so learn to test the battery first
they fail at 1000 cycles, (short lived they are)
you year told or how old battery is.

any shop can test the battery and charger that came with the bike. let them?

Short answer, yes. Longer answer, maybe maybe not. IF the Lithium Ion battery is fully charged when you install it, the bike should be able to keep it fully charged. Lithium Ion batteries do not tend to lose their charge rapidly just sitting there with nothing on. It takes a special charger to charge them to begin with. Colder days, you need to "wake up" the batter with a couple hits of the starter or turning the headlight on, automatic with the key on most bikes. They simply won't give full power until you "wake them up". I am assuming you are talking about a replacement motorcycle battery, not some random lithium battery in this case. One problem is the lithium is much more expensive than the lead acid battery, and if you let the voltage fall to even relatively high levels (sometimes as much as 11 volts) it can ruin the battery totally. Lead acid can be much more forgiving. Leave your key on with a lithium, you could kill it beyond recharging. Lead acid batteries this is not the case, and lead acid batteries can be refreshed with fresh acid, once a lithium is gone, it's gone, there's no saving it. I would rethink why you want a lithium battery. It does save weight and often size, but I see no real advantages over the standard battery in use.

check the battery composition you are trying to charge
some chargers will only charge lithium batteries and not charge nl.mh batteries as they charge too fast and over heat the battery
check the voltage of the charger as it may be incorrect for the battery

There could be a variety of reasons for the battery malfunction, some of which are listed below:
a) low battery voltage due to long term storage without charging (>1 year, charger will not charge if the voltage is too low. What is the voltage?),
b) cell imbalance due to shorting out the terminals (was the battery used for other purpose than running power tools?),
c) internal corrosion caused by exposing the battery to damp environments during its life (need to open the battery and look for signs of corrosion on the cells. Was the battery left out in the rain at some point in time?),
d) battery age, ie, the cells may have reached their end-of-life based on the number of charge cycles (what are the estimated number of cycles?),
e) faulty charger (does the charger charge other batteries?),
f) internal battery damage with broken connections (has the battery been dropped or mishandled at some point?).

More details should be provided before suggesting possible solutions.

No, the P110, 18V NiCad battery charger, will not charge a 18V lithium ion battery. You need one of the dual-chemistry chargers. If you have the Ryobi ONE+ batteries, you can get the P117 charger ($30) or a charger with an extra battery (P126) from a store like Home Depot. A 6 battery charger and a 12V in-car charger are also available.

I wish that I had better news for you.

Cindy Wells
(who has the Ryobi 12V drill and charger, a few of the 4V tools, and a number of the ONE+ 18V devices and chargers. The single chemistry battery charger is not used much any more.)

As long as the voltage of the battery is the same as the tool, the tool won't mind if the power is coming from a NiCd or lithium battery. You do have to have a charger that works with lithium batteries to charge them up. Chargers that can charge lithium batteries can also charge NiCd and NMH batteies. NiCd chargers are not always programmed to detect when lithium batteries are full and may continue to charge them to the point of melting or starting on fire.

its not likley to be the battery its the charging systen on the bike thats faled on you check the regulator is working then all the fuses are good ones

Hello,

Remove both sparkplugs from engine. Plug them back in the sparkplug cables and let them rest on the engine.
Make sure your battery is well charged.
Check for sparks while kick-starting...
Interchange the sparkplugs in the cables:
-Same plug give sparks: replace the spark plugs.
-Same side of engine sparks: interchange the low-voltage connector at the ignition coils.
Give it a try:
Same engine side sparks: Replace the defective ignition coil.
Other side of the engine sparks: Check the circuit harness for loose connectors, and/or Clean-replace the breaker points ( left side of the engine carter ).

NEVER connect positive to negative. You'll damage your electrical system in the car or fry the charger.

It is best to put the positive on first, and then the negative. Remember, it doesn't always have to be the negative post of the battery, it can be a really good ground on the bare metal of your car.

But sparks just go along with it - don't let them scare you. But I always connect the clamps first, then turn on the charger, with the dial on "off". Then make sure of the 6/12 volt settings, and the amp charge you want to put on. A long slow charge overnight fo 12 volt can be 10 amps. A relatively fast is 50. And then to jump it off, go to the setting.

Make sure the battery being charged is sitting in wood, not concrete. If you have the old fashioned battery with removeble water caps, don't breathe the vapors.

As long as your attaching red to + and black to - you'll be fine. If you don't want sparks don't turn on your charger until after you connect the wires. Be sure to remove the negative cable to your car before charging or you can damage the computer in the vehicle.