Ktm 300 exc 2012 Rear brake caliper is very loose, my rear brake over heated and when I stripped it down I pulled out a plastic insert from the carrier. Can you buy replacements

Remove tire, pull of brake caliper, knock it loose with a sledge hammer or heat up center with torch and knock it loose.

Thanks for contacting FixYa. I was reviewing some of the older un-answered questions trying to ensure your issue has been resolved.

KTM Torque settings

1. Collar screw, front wheel spindle Front axle nut 40Nm 30ft lbs
2. Brake Caliper front Brake Caliper front Loctite 243 2 19ft lbs
3. Brake Disk, front Brake disk front Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
4. Brake Disk, rear Brake disk rear Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
5. Clamping screws, upper fork bridge Top triple clamp 20Nm 15ft lbs
6. Clamping screws, lower fork bridge Bottom triple clamp 15Nm 11ft lbs
7. Clamping screws, fork stubs Front axle pinch bolts 10Nm 7ft lbs
8. Collar nut, rear wheel spindle Rear axle nut 80Nm 59ft lbs
9. Hex nut swingarm bolt Swingarm nut 100Nm 74ft lbs
10. Hex collar screw handlebar clamp Upper handlebar clamps 20Nm 15ft lbs
11. Allen head screw handlebar support Lower handlebar clamps Loctite 243 4 30ft lbs
12. Shock absorber top Shock absorber top bolt 60Nm 44ft lbs
13. Shock absorber bottom Shock absorber botton bolt 60Nm 44ft lbs
14. Sprocket screws Rear sprocket bolts Loctite 243 3 25ft lbs
15. Ball joint for push rod Rear brake pedal pivot Loctite 243 1 7ft lbs
16. Engine mounting bolts Engine mounting bolts 45Nm 33ft lbs
17. Engine brace Engine brace 33Nm 24ft lbs
18. Screw adjusting ring spring preload Shock preload collar bolt 8Nm 6ft lbs
19. Spoke nipple Spokes 5Nm 4ft lbs
20. Other Screws on chassis M6 10Nm 7ft lbs
21. M8 25Nm 19ft lbs
22. M10 45Nm 33ft lbs
23. Other collar nutes on chassis M6 15Nm 11ft lbs
24. M8 30Nm 22ft lbs
25. M10 50Nm 37ft lbs
26. Front Sprocket 44ft lbs

TF

Thank you for contacting FixYa with your inquiry.
The Rubber Diaphragm by nature is usually somewhat collapsed and twisted looking. Unless it appears to be non functional it's probably OK. It's important to have fluid and make sure the air is out of the system. There is a bleeder screw to allow for evacuating the air out of the system.
http://cyclehuttktm.com/FicheFinderNew/FicheFinder.aspx Go To: 2004 > 450 EXC-G RACING (USA) > CHASSIS > BRAKE CALIPER REAR
Also look at the repair kit Item #2 (50313081200)
You can purchase a complete repair manual from this site: http://store.payloadz.com/details/391226-eBooks-Technical-2003-2004-KTM-450-525-EXC-Racing-Owners-Manual.html
Make sure you have serviceable pads, proper KTM brake fluid, and the air is out of the system and the brake cylinder is functional and you will have brakes. There is also an accessory available the cools the fluid for the rear brakes and keeps them from fading if you ride the pedal or are constantly braking. Ask you dealer.
Let us know if we can be of further service.

Kind regards,
TF

Thanks for contacting FixYa. I was reviewing some of the older un-answered questions trying to ensure your issue has been resolved.

KTM Torque settings

1. Collar screw, front wheel spindle Front axle nut 40Nm 30ft lbs
2. Brake Caliper front Brake Caliper front Loctite 243 2 19ft lbs
3. Brake Disk, front Brake disk front Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
4. Brake Disk, rear Brake disk rear Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
5. Clamping screws, upper fork bridge Top triple clamp 20Nm 15ft lbs
6. Clamping screws, lower fork bridge Bottom triple clamp 15Nm 11ft lbs
7. Clamping screws, fork stubs Front axle pinch bolts 10Nm 7ft lbs
8. Collar nut, rear wheel spindle Rear axle nut 80Nm 59ft lbs
9. Hex nut swingarm bolt Swingarm nut 100Nm 74ft lbs
10. Hex collar screw handlebar clamp Upper handlebar clamps 20Nm 15ft lbs
11. Allen head screw handlebar support Lower handlebar clamps Loctite 243 4 30ft lbs
12. Shock absorber top Shock absorber top bolt 60Nm 44ft lbs
13. Shock absorber bottom Shock absorber botton bolt 60Nm 44ft lbs
14. Sprocket screws Rear sprocket bolts Loctite 243 3 25ft lbs
15. Ball joint for push rod Rear brake pedal pivot Loctite 243 1 7ft lbs
16. Engine mounting bolts Engine mounting bolts 45Nm 33ft lbs
17. Engine brace Engine brace 33Nm 24ft lbs
18. Screw adjusting ring spring preload Shock preload collar bolt 8Nm 6ft lbs
19. Spoke nipple Spokes 5Nm 4ft lbs
20. Other Screws on chassis M6 10Nm 7ft lbs
21. M8 25Nm 19ft lbs
22. M10 45Nm 33ft lbs
23. Other collar nutes on chassis M6 15Nm 11ft lbs
24. M8 30Nm 22ft lbs
25. M10 50Nm 37ft lbs
26. Front Sprocket 44ft lbs

TF

Thank you for contacting FixYa with your inquiry. I have been going
over some of the older help requests that have been archieved and
trying to provide solutions for those that didn't get answered. Hope
this information helps.

KTM Torque settings

1. Collar screw, front wheel spindle Front axle nut 40Nm 30ft lbs
2. Brake Caliper front Brake Caliper front Loctite 243 2 19ft lbs
3. Brake Disk, front Brake disk front Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
4. Brake Disk, rear Brake disk rear Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
5. Clamping screws, upper fork bridge Top triple clamp 20Nm 15ft lbs
6. Clamping screws, lower fork bridge Bottom triple clamp 15Nm 11ft lbs
7. Clamping screws, fork stubs Front axle pinch bolts 10Nm 7ft lbs
8. Collar nut, rear wheel spindle Rear axle nut 80Nm 59ft lbs
9. Hex nut swingarm bolt Swingarm nut 100Nm 74ft lbs
10. Hex collar screw handlebar clamp Upper handlebar clamps 20Nm 15ft lbs
11. Allen head screw handlebar support Lower handlebar clamps Loctite 243 4 30ft lbs
12. Shock absorber top Shock absorber top bolt 60Nm 44ft lbs
13. Shock absorber bottom Shock absorber bottom bolt 60Nm 44ft lbs
14. Sprocket screws Rear sprocket bolts Loctite 243 3 25ft lbs
15. Ball joint for push rod Rear brake pedal pivot Loctite 243 1 7ft lbs
16. Engine mounting bolts Engine mounting bolts 45Nm 33ft lbs
17. Engine brace Engine brace 33Nm 24ft lbs
18. Screw adjusting ring spring preload Shock preload collar bolt 8Nm 6ft lbs
19. Spoke nipple Spokes 5Nm 4ft lbs
20. Other Screws on chassis M6 10Nm 7ft lbs
21. M8 25Nm 19ft lbs
22. M10 45Nm 33ft lbs
23. Other collar nuts on chassis M6 15Nm 11ft lbs
24. M8 30Nm 22ft lbs
25. M10 50Nm 37ft lbs
26. Front Sprocket 44ft lbs

TF

you will have to check the switch which should be situated at the back of the pedal . the switch may be over tight and causing the light to come on .
Check also that the wiring may be swapped as the tail light may be using the brake lightbulb .

08 needing recharged? if it needs recharged it probably needs new seals. it's cheaper to send it to http://www.factoryconnection.com/index2.htm than to take it to a dealership or buying the equipment needed to do it yourself $$

an alternative......convert it from pds to bladder and make rebuilding easier
http://www.racetech.com/EmailList/News/RTnews-080630.html

Relax....KTM's are delicate in this procedure.
First of all make sure that you are using DOT 5.1 brake fluid and not 4 as we use in the Japan models.
Then take the rear caliper in your hands and push the piston all the way in.Then bolt it on its position.
Bolt on the brake hose to the rear caliper tight and leave it loose on the rear master cylinder side (loose but ready to tight it on like half circle loose) and clean up the reservoir completely.
Take a syringe from a pharmacy and a piece of 3mm clear tube.
Start pushing brake fluid in the caliper's loose bleeder until you see fluid coming out fron the hose's loose end on the master cylinder.
The tight the cylinder's bolt and keep pushing fluid until you see it filling up the reservoir.
When you see the reservoir fully filled up, tight the bleeder, take out the syringe and start pressing the brake pedal 15-20 times and the last one keep it down and loose the bleeder (with a tube attached to it and to a bottle) for a sec to relieve the pressure along with any air bubbles.DON'T LIFT THE PEDAL UNTIL YOU HAVE TIGHT BACK THE BLEEDER or the system will **** air in.FIRST tight the bleeder and THEN loose the pedal.
Keep doing that until NO air comes out of the system.
While you are doing this second stage keep filling up the reservoir and do not let the master cylinder **** air in.

Get someone to pump the brake pedal a few times, and someone else to undo the bleed screw, it will be a small grease nipple looking thing on the rear caliper. Undo the screw then re-tighten it, holding the pedal down the whole time. Repeat until fluid comes out of the screw, then do it a couple more times to be safe. Be sure to wipe the fluid off your bike as it strips paint. Also make sure the reservoir has plenty of fluid in it before you start.