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How do I adjust hydraulic clutches my motorcycle?

Won't shift gears

Posted by Marsha Daugherty on

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5 Related Answers

fischmilch

Mike Deemer-White

  • 96 Answers

SOURCE: Adjust Motorcycle Clutch Cable

Usually there are 2 adjustment points. One at the clutch lever, and one on the clutch pull on the crankcase. Follow the cable from the handlebars to the engine, there should be an adjust bolt or two. The adjustment at the handlebar lever is usually a screw with a thumbwheel lock nut. Depending on what you are trying to adjust, dictates which one you will use and in what direction it will go. If the clutch is slipping, use the thumbwheel adjuster. Loosen it, back the screw out 2-3 turns, tighten. and check you clutch. if this one is all the way out, go to the crankcase, loosen the bolt on the richt side of the bracket first, then loosen the left one, one turn at a time, checing the clutch. once it's where you want it. tighten the right bolt only. You can do this with a set of open end or box wrenches. An adjustable wrench works in a pinch.

Posted on Nov 28, 2008

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Anonymous

  • 216 Answers

SOURCE: Road King Motorcycle clutch

Theres 2 clutch adjustments you can do - one is on the cable, under the boot, the other is at the clutch hub, under the derby cover in the primary. That should take care of the whine and your problem finding neutral. If you get some teflon spray and shoot it generously down the inside of your cable, you are gonna be surprized at how easy it'll pull

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

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Fabrice Wolters

  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: 94 suzuki 800 intruder. clutch splips in

No adjusting is possible.
Slip can be caused by several defaults:
- Wrong engine oil ( SAE 10w-40 API SE or SF only )
- Weak clutch springs ( free spring length : 34mm ( 1.34in ) MINIMUM
- Worn clutch disk 2(internal teeths ) ( wear limit 3.15mm ( 0.124in ) ) This is the last disk, against the clutch center
- Worn clutch disks 1 (internal teeths) ( wear limit 2.62mm ( 0.103in ) )
- Clutch plates ( thikcness between 1.55 and 1.65mm / 0.0610 and 0.0649 inches
- Damaged pressure plate ( cracks round the spring holes )

To check the clutch parts, the right engine cover must be removed.
Take attention while loosening the clutch spring bolts!
Drain engine oil, and set engine into first gear ( this locks the clutch for an easy loosening of the spring bolts )

Hope it helps

Posted on Apr 02, 2009

Mukesh Kumar

  • 3230 Answers

SOURCE: Yamaha Raptor Shifting

Hi there,

Well, it seems like there is a problem with the shift return spring; it's on the backend of the gear, Seems broken or not attached properly, so first of all do this check.

Good Luck!!
Thanks

Posted on Jul 08, 2009

joecoolvette

joecoolvette

  • 5660 Answers

SOURCE: how do you adjust the clutch. Mine doesn't

You need to adjust the clutch cable adjustment for the clutch handle, THEN adjust the clutch itself.

1.First go to the clutch cable. Halfway down the cable is a rubber boot. Pull the rubber boot up the cable, (Or down. Pull it. Do NOT push), until it clears the adjustment. (The adjustment is a hex shaped piece, that is made of two parts. It's called a Barrel)
Use a 9/16 inch open end wrench, and a 1/2 inch open end wrench. Loosen the lock nut until you have around 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch clearance, of slack in the handle.
(Where the clutch lever, touches the clutch lever mount on the handlebars)

2.Now open the derby cover.
(The round cover on the back of your primary cover. Not to insult your intelligence. This -> https://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=02649&store=&catId=&productId=p02649&leafCatId=&mmyId=
<-shows a custom primary inner, and outer cover. The derby cover is the round cover all the way to the right, on this custom primary cover. You can click on the photo to enlarge)

You will then see a single threaded stud, (Adjuster screw), in the middle of the clutch pressure plate.
This adjuster screw has a nut on it, to lock the screw from turning. (Jam nut)
Hold the stud end,(adjuster screw). from turning with a large flat tip screwdriver,
(May have changed to a small square end, that you use an open end wrench on), loosen the jam nut with an open end wrench.

Turn the adjuster screw in, until there is 1/8th inch slack of the clutch lever, to the clutch lever mount.
(The clutch lever mount is the part that attaches to the handlebars. The clutch lever is the part you squeeze in with your hand. The slack is the small space in-between the clutch lever, where it touches the clutch lever mount)

Now turn the adjuster screw out 1/2 turn. Tighten the jam nut. (Make sure you hold the adjuster screw in that place you set, as you tighten the jam nut. DON'T let the adjuster screw turn as you tighten the jam nut!)

3.Now tighten the lock nut, (Jam nut), on the adjustment barrel for the clutch cable. You should grease the threads of this adjustment barrel to prevent corrosion in the future. Pull the rubber boot back into place.

4.Replace the derby cover gasket as these will leak like a sieve. Replacing this gasket is cheap insurance. Install the derby cover, tighten the derby cover screws evenly. (Go to one screw, tighten until it touches. Then go to another screw, and do the same. After all three are touching, snug them down one turn at a time, going from screw to screw)

This is a thin cover. If you don't tighten the screws evenly, you can cause this thin cover to warp, and be the cause of a constant annoying oil drip.

Posted on Jul 13, 2009

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