SOURCE: 2004 honda crf 230 f
http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/floatlevel.html
i could write a long thing on here but you should just go here it will tell you every thing
SOURCE: Will not run without choke
have you checked for vaccuum leaks at the intake manifold? you can check by pouring water over the gasket area when/ if you get it running!
SOURCE: setting float level on HSC40 Hitachi carburetors on 1986 Virago
I have a 1982 Virago 750 that I just did a carb rebuild to. To set the float levels I built a jig from wood that simulates the position of the carbs when mounted on the bike. This jig clamps into my bench vise. I created a fuel supply using a small funnel and a piece of fuel hose mounted above the level of the carbs.. After that all you need is a short length of transparent fuel hose to attach to the drain on the bottom of the float bowl to provide the visual indication of the float setting. Now you are ready to set up the float levels on your bench. This is way easier than trying to set them up in the bike.
Make sure that the jig is set up so that the carbs sit as level as possible across the pair and that they sit as close to the natural position in the bike in the lengthwise position when the bike is sitting level.
The process of setting up these floats can be very tedious, be patient. It may require that the float bowls be removed multiple times to get it correct (I replaced the philips head machine screws with allen head screws to make this easier). Printed instructions for the procedure look for a certain fuel level setting plus or minus 1mm. This kind of tolerance can be quite difficult to get when the only adjustment you have to work with is to bend the metal tang on the float assembly.
SOURCE: Kawasaki Ninja 250 running problem
This could be due to timing screw being incorrectly set
Locate gold timing screw on the carbrettta turn it clockwise
only slightly till bike idles without choke on, Then when choke it on it should idle a touch higher.
SOURCE: 1995 Yamaha XV 250 Virago Is there a need to
The problems with a plunger style choke happen when the rubber on the bottom becomes deformed and does not seal or the spring does not push the plunger down hard enough, or the cap breaks so the plunger is not pushed down hard enough. If you put your finger over the hole and the bike runs properly your bike is running on choke. You have to block the hole deep inside the carb to shut off the choke. I assume the original problem was that the bike would not idle .If this is the case, take the carb apart remove the slow jet and clean the jet and the carb body out so fuel will flow at idle. This should fix your no idle problem.
Testimonial: "Thanks for the info. The original problem was the bike would idle okay, but stall as soon as gas was applied, I suspected a gas flow problem. I shotgunned a bunch of things including new petcock value filter in tank, taking carb off and cleaning jets, float bowl, and various orifices, replaced intake manifold (thought it could be a vacuum leak from some cracks seen), plus some other things I'm probably forgetting. Each change seemed to fix problem for a while, but it would always return (problem was always intermittent). Recently I noticed just moving the choke cable (without changing choke setting) was causing bike idle to change, then it died hard and would not start again after I fiddled with cable a bit - tried ether, etc. Since it fired right up after taking choke cable off I ordered a new one, still waiting for it, hopefully that'll fix it. I couldn't find anyway to adjust choke cable though manual debug section claims it can mis-adjusted. If this still fails I'll probably take the carb off again and try cleaning again. Been an intermittent thorn in my side for a while now. Thanks for the suggestions!! "
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