Question about 1998 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic

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Rear wheel locks when backing up

I try to back up bike and wheel is locked going backwards. My rear brake pads just came off, I lost a bolt, so not the brakes holding from going back.

Posted by Anonymous on


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Gregg Mahin

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Hi, Anonymous for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry. If necessary transport your vehicle to the dealer or shop and have a professional technician take it for a test drive, if it is in running condition, and give you a written estimate of repairs and answer any specific questions you may have about your issue. For more information about your issue please visit the website below. Good luck and have a nice day.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at

Posted on Nov 29, 2015


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Stuck rear brake caliper on 2003 road king after replacing brakes

Hi Anonymous, jack up bike so rear wheel is off the ground and can spin, bang the caliper on the outer half with a deadblow or rubber mallet 2 or 3 good wacks. Try and spin the wheel, if it spins check the rotor for warpage then check the brake pedal to make it works and is not locking up the rear wheel to where it won't spin freely. If it does lock up then your caliper pistons are cocked and need to be pushed all the way back into the bores and re-bleed the system. Good luck

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Changing rear brake pads on a 2011 tri glide ultra classic

A TriGlide's rear brakes are quite different from a two-wheeled Ultra, which seems to be what everyone has been talking about. In order to change the pads:
While the bike is on the ground, break the lug nuts loose on both sides. Release the parking brake. Then lift the bike so that the rear tires are far enough off the ground that you can take a rear tire off and get it out from under the fender.
Start with the left rear tire, as it is the furthest away from the master cylinder. With the tire out of the way, you can see the caliper. You'll see a lever on the caliper for the parking brake on the inboard side of the caliper. There is n Ny-Lock type nut on the lever shaft. Remove the nut and lever, and back the bolt out. The bolt is what applies pressure to the caliper piston when you set the parking brake, and if it isn't backed out enough, it will prevent you from pushing the piston sufficiently to put the new pads in.
There are two bolts in the caliper that capture the pads. Remove the bolts and pads. You can use one of the pads and a C-clamp to now push the piston in. Or, you may be able to push the piston in by hand.
While you have the caliper off, there is a bushing on the top and bottom that allows the caliper to self-center as the pads wear. They should move in and out of the caliper housing with a little resistance. It's a good idea to check them, and take them out and clean and lubricate them with a thin coat of anti-sieze and reinstall. If they have a lot of corrosion on them, you may want to replace.
It's also recommended that you bleed the brakes, as the brake fluid has a tendency to absorb moisture over time. As the fluid gets hot, the water will cause bubbles to form, and you'll loose stopping power. (Don't try to bleed the brakes until the pads and caliper have been reinstalled and bolted in over the rotor)
Install the new pads, and reinstall the caliper. The pad kit you bought from H-D should have new bolts to put in the caliper for the parking brake, so replace the bolt, running it in far enough so you feel it contacting the piston. Put the lever back on so that it is resting against the stop on the caliper in the fully released position, and put a new Ny-Lock nut on that should have come in the kit.
Now bleed the brake line. Keep bleeding until clear fluid flows, being sure you don't introduce air into the line.
When everything has been tightened to the proper torque, put the tire and lug nuts back on. Repeat for the right side.
Once you've got everything back together, back off the adjustment on the parking brake lever, and then set the brake. If the brakes don't hold when you push the bike, release the lever and tighten the adjustment. Repeat until the brakes hold the bike. Make sure you tighten the set screw the holds the lever adjustment in position.
You should then be good to go. Be sure to wash down any brake fluid that may have dripped, as it will ruin paint finishes.

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1 Answer

I need to change the rear brake pads on my hd street glide myself. where can i find instructions to assist me?

To change the pads on your bike, look at the caliper and you'll see two bolts that hold it into the caliper bracket. Remove these two bolts. Rock the caliper in towards the wheel and back out a few times to loosen everything up and carefully remove the caliper from the bracket without disturning the pads or the anti-rattle hardware.

Take special note of how the anti-rattle hardware is positioned in the caliper bracket. Now, replace the pads and hardware with new parts. Make sure you install the inside pad with the fiber side towards the rotor. Don't laugh, you'd be surprised at how many I've seen installed backwards.

Now, next you must get the piston pressed back into it's bore. I use either a large C-clamp or a large pair of slip joint pliers to press the piston back into it's bore. Use rags or thin pieces of wood to protect the finish on your caliper. Once you get the piston all the way back down in the bore, carefully slide it back down over the pads without disturbing them. Replace the two screws and torque them to 35-40 foot pounds.

Slowly depress the rear brake pedal until you get a nice firm brake pedal. Make sure you test the brakes before you ride the bike at any high speeds. Failure to test the brakes for proper operation can cause severe injury or death.

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