The inside open end of my exhaust pipe is developing holes. How can I have it repaired in order to save a lot of money on a new system?

There is no catalytic converter in a 2001 VW TDi.

If it is just an exhaust leak take it to a muffler shop like Midas, it is surprisingly cheap, like 50$. Exhaust isn't really a DIY thing unless you know how to weld. In which case, find the hole weld a patch on it.

if the exhaust is all one piece meaning no joints/connections then cut the old muffler out by cutting the pipe in front and behind the muffler leaving enough pipe for the new muffler to slide around the exhaust pipe and then using muffler clamps clamp the pipes in place on the muffler until its tight.

White smoke means a coolant leak, check it and repair before to overheating your engine.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

A ten year old European car is due for a new plastic radiator, so that is the most likely suspect if it has never been replaced. If that is it, the part is about $250 if you buy it on line, or $400 if you buy it at the dealer or through a mechanic shop, plus a couple hours labor.
Realistically, however, if you plan on keeping the car for a long time, or if you let your wife or daughter drive it, you should seriously consider going through the whole cooling system and replacing all the plastic and rubber parts. (all hoses, expansion tank and cap, thermostat, thermostat cover, perhaps the fan clutch, etc) If you don't, that cooling system will be back in your wallet every year for the next 5 years, and the sum of all the repairs will be a lot more than the total bill if you do it all at once.
I drive my BMWs for a quarter-million miles or more, so I accept replacing all the plastic and rubber parts in the cooling system every decade or so as a normal maintenance item. I buy all my parts on line and put them on myself, so it is really not all that expensive for me.
Use BMW branded coolant when you put it back together. You can buy that on line cheaper than getting it from the dealer.

Hello,


I am writing to tell you about a new BREAKTHROUGH method for repairing a leaking Coolant Transfer Pipe in the BMW N62 V8 engine block using the BimmerFix Stint. The N62 V8 is a popular BMW engine that was used from 2002 thru 2010, in such fabulous vehicles as the BMW 735i, 740i, 745i, 750i & Li, 645Ci, 650i, 540i, 545i, 550i, and the X5 SUV.


Located deep inside of this BMW N62 engine is a Coolant Transfer Pipe, which carries antifreeze from the Water Pump to cooling chambers within the engine. However, the Front Seal on this Cooling Tube can fail in as little as 40,000 miles, and start leaking antifreeze from the engine block, through a weep hole in the Timing Chain Cover. When this happens, the car will lose antifreeze from the engine, and the engine will overheat.


In the past, this has been a very expensive repair because it required disassembly of the engine, in order to access the leaking Cooling Pipe Seal. The original method of replacing the crossover Coolant Transfer Pipe required the removal of the Timing Chain Cover. This repair could cost $6,000 or more at the BMW Dealer.


Then, an after-market Collapsible Coolant Pipe was developed to save time and money on this repair. This Collapsible Coolant Pipe method involves removing the Intake Manifold, cutting out the old Coolant Pipe and installing the after-market Collapsible Coolant Pipe. But even this method required many hours of shop labor and expensive parts and supplies. The repair bill for this method can still cost between $1,500.00 and $2,500.00 to remove the Intake Manifold, cut out the old Coolant Pipe and install the new Collapsible Coolant Pipe.


However, BimmerFix Products Co. has discovered a BREAKTHROUGH system to stop the leak! The BimmerFix method is much faster and less expensive than these old methods. This simple, yet durable and long lasting method inserts the BimmerFix Stint into the leaking crossover cooling tube, through the Timing Chain Cover. The thin aluminum sleeve creates a long lasting repair that is much easier and less expensive to install than the old repair methods.


The new BimmerFix Stint will stop the Coolant Pipe leak, and only requires the removal of the Water Pump. This new patent protected invention can save YOU or your customer's time, hassle, and thousands of dollars. It works or your money back!


Save time and money! Take a look at www.BimmerFix.com.


Watch The Video! You will be glad you did!http://youtu.be/UABuZYvI3SM


Thanks for your time!


BimmerFix Products Co.


Tucson, Arizona, USA

I had this same problem in my 02 745i... It's leaking from the internal coolant pipe... a $.05 rubber ring is going to cost you 3-5k easily.

older Cadillac's had a problem with the intermediate exhaust pipe,it is actually two pipes in one,what would happen is the inner pipe would get seperated from the outer and the exhaust would seperate the two pipes and end up blocking off exhaust under acceleration.the more gas you gave it the slower you went.

did the flange come apart or did the pipe break, if the pipe broke then you will have to replace the system fron the flange back, these exhaust systems look good but corrode from the inside out, get a new system i will probably come in three pieces, and new hangers, its pretty straightforward

Hi gege01!

Yes, you DO need a special tool to properly install the bushings, but you might be able to improvise a bushing screw-press with some allthread, nuts, fat washers, and some appropriately sized pipe section or sockets, one wide enough to accept the bushing for engaging the control arm, the other small enough to fully engage the bushing head.
Lubricate the bushing with silicone grease, run the allthread (double nutted securely in place at the end) through (in this order) a large washer, the larger diameter pipe section, the control arm bushing mounting hole, the new bushing center hole, the smaller diameter pipe section, washers large enough to fully engage the smaller pipe section, and finally attach another nut to hold the whole thing together. Holding the double nutted end, tighten the other nut to slowly compress the new bushing into the control arm.
Some guys do it with sockets and big hammers, but they generally end up with damaged bushings and smashed fingers!
Hope this helps and good luck!

-WildBill