Has a fi light on i tested volltage from ecu and read no voltage does that normanaly mean the ecu is bad

not a car , moved you to MC
MARAUDER! right?
NO YEAR TOLD AT ALL. oops. bad that. 2007 is last I think.
buy the service manual and read what 1L+5S error code means
my guess is fuel pressure dead. and filters this are packed in gunk and or bad gas there.
it will start using test fuel spray , but stalls in 3 seconds.
due to FI fuel injections are dead.
fuse bad.
or any of all things FI uses to inject can be bad, even crank sensor.
etc.
buy the manual read the FI chapter and that code (errors)
causes,
fuses blown.
bad fuel ,and the results of that clogged fuel filters and injector.
bad fuel pump or clogged or pump or relay bad.
bad sensors to EFI, CMP or CKP
any bad input to ECU will do this (fail)

1998 to 2007, early were CARB fuel and manual easy to find
the 2007 has TBI throttle body injection like 1990 cars had
all this can fail.\
I see all parts here. (for sale or obsolete)

https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/en/suzuki-parts/2007-gz125-marauder-motorcycles/throttle-body-assembly

old post
" ecu wont read bur" ><<<< i can not decode this.
bur, vur,nur, byr,bir, nah, bue, but, ah its BUT? (type analysis, me bad)
ECU won't read ,but fues is good, (test fuse, never just look)
What does wont read mean. by what tool by what actions, by you.?
IF the ECU will not scan with a new scan too the fuses are blown.
period! (or wrong scan tool;) this year is VPW OBD2. (ask)

simple answer, alldata.com RTM.
long answer.
we cant answer on any car lacking engine size (type) and country.
sorry. can't. and be RIGHT.
in uSA its 3 engine this year.
2.2 L I4
3.2 L V6
3.5 L V6 each can be quite different, post engine.

Generics.
horn don't blow can be blown fuse. test them. the one marked HORN being first.
can be bad horn relay or bad clockspring. or even a bad horn
to test any horn, HOT wire it. to any 12vdc battery.

ECU issues, gee, what country and engine and what are the Symptoms of your ECU. in details. running or not.
hot or cold, driving or not.

no it does not.
not ever.
it may run a test on the ECT and tell you it reads wrong, sure.
but that ONLY means the test failed, a technician
then tests it by hand , then the wires.
no ecu can tell you what part on any car is bad, ever.
it ONLY a test.

what does ECT read , in ohms cold 3000 or more? what?
then ECT read hot, 300?
if the ECT reads per the FSM chart then its good.
so the wires are bad.
i'ts that simple..
rare but possible is intermittent ECT the cause.

The PCM checks the ECT 3 ways.
1: open
2: shorted.
3: too slow to rise. (bad engine coolant thermostat , and others) ask

so in case 3 , the ECU is not saying the ECT is bad. it dont know.
it only sees it reads wrong, and never ever knows the why.

does car drive? (ill presume no)

you mean ABS, antilock braking system.

the Check engine light is not on , running, if is scan it.



of car runs perfect.

but ABS is on, read operators guide, it say take it to service.

if you open the FSM it says what to test, all tools you dont have

but most ABS fails are BRAKES bad or dirty sensors , or got hit sensors (wheel sensors, see those tone rings???)

fix the brakes first, normal brakes.

the speedompeter., that is hopefully just a bad fuse.

if not a fuse post back there are other tests

here is just one:

1: attach, scan tool does MPH at VSS sensor read rigth at all speeds.

yes, then the speedo is bad.

no, then the VSS is bad. and ECU will puke lots of DTC errors for that.

Scan the ECU/PCM for errors.

if the injector coils are not shorted (0 ohms)
the ECU is bad, caused by that,
measure both coils (all) all must read the same.
this is like test 1.
then clicking.
ever heard of a NOID light test? get one and do it.
check all fuses
check for 12v to injectors.
some engines( you never told it) have injectors ganged
means 2 , injectors run off 1 wire, from ECU.
so, if that is your engine, then the eCU wire is dead and the noid test
fails.

IAT (intake air temperature) sensor out of range.
It means that the ECU is reading low resistance. It could mean that you have a bad IAT Sensor, a bad ECU (Probably not), or an open (short) in the positive or ground.

Get a voltmeter. Unplug the IAT from the connector and hook the voltmeter to the positive and negative of the IAT sensor. Turn the key to the ON position (DO NOT turn the engine on). And measure voltage. It should be close to 5volts.

If you get close to 5 volts - Sensor is bad.
If you get 0 volts - Short in positive or ground wire.
If you get over 5 volts - Bad resistor in ECU

There may be no loss of voltage, but is there a surge of voltage?

As for the battery itself when tested, it should read 12-12.5Volts across the
leads when the car is off. When the car is running, the battery should be reading 13-14Volts across the leads, anything lower means the alternator is not charging your battery, anything higher means the alternator is over charging and damaging your battery.

Another cause for the battery light could be your ECU has detected an error

The F(uel) I(njection) comes on when the ECU locates a malfunctioning sensor.You must go to a dealer's workshop to read the ECU's fail report and check the injection components.Perhaps is just a shortcut in your harness but first check the diagnose to eliminate the fact of a sensor or an injector.

hi remove the supply to the main board & inverter, now power your psu if give you this same above voltages , go for new power supply unit. change your power