Instrument panel not working

Odometer
The IPC contains a season odometer and a trip odometer. Momentarily press the trip/reset switch on the IPC in order to toggle between the season odometer and the trip odometer. Press the trip/reset switch for greater than 2 seconds, while the trip odometer is displayed, in order to reset the trip odometer. The IPC displays the vehicle mileage and trip mileage as determined by the BCM. The BCM calculates the mileage based on the vehicle speed signal circuit from the PCM. The odometer will display 'error' if an internal IPC memory failure is detected or there is a loss of class 2 communication.

IPC - instrument panel cluster.

Replace the instrument panel cluster (IPC). Refer to Instrument Cluster Replacement .

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sorry but no. the odometer gets its signal fom the spedometer so if the spedometer works and the odometer does not then you will need to replace the spedometer assembly...good luck

the odometer gets it drive signal from the spedometer so if the spedometer is working then the only thing that can be wrong is the drive circuit from the spedometer to the odometer, the only thing you can do is replace the spedometer assembly, and now the bad news the spedometer on this car has its own computer that has to be programed to match with the other computers on the car so if you get a used or new unit you will have to take the car to GM and have the computer flashed so that it will work with all the other computers on the car.....good luck

I have the same problem as bestdad2000.
on my 2001 Buick Century the odometer and trip meter do not light up, but the rest of the instument panel does?? I have been using the trip meter for trip milelage as my gas gage has stop working properly. Help!! [email protected]

Hi,

This solution will be of great help to you,even in the case of future or other dashboard problems;
Instrument cluster consists of electronic analog gauges, various warning lights, and optional tachometer. Vehicles equipped with tachometer have an electronic vacuum fluorescent transmission range indicator (PRND3L),odometer and trip odometer display. Vehicles without tachometer are equipped with a cable-operated transmission range indicator.
Instrument cluster is equipped with the following warning lights:
Battery voltage.
Cruise (speed control).
Door ajar.
Fasten seat belt.
Lift gate ajar.
Low fuel level.
Low windshield and washer level.
Traction Control.
The Body Control Module (BCM), which receives input from various sensors, sends display information to instrument cluster and operates gauges. Instrument cluster incorporates a self-test diagnostic feature to identify electronic problems. BCM, Powertrain Control Module (PCM), and Transmission Control Module (TCM) are continuously monitored by the diagnostic system.

SELF-DIAGNOSTICS
With ignition off, press and hold TRIP and RESET buttons while turning ignition switch to ON position. Continue to hold TRIP and RESET buttons until odometer window displays CODE (approximately 5 seconds). If problem exists, system will display diagnostic trouble codes. See DIAGNOSTIC CODE CHART table. If no problem exists, Code 999 (end test) will be displayed.
DIAGNOSTIC CODE CHART
CodeDescription
110.......Cluster Memory Fault
111.......Cluster Calibration Fault
905.......No CCD Bus Message From TCM
921.......Odometer Fault From BCM
940.......No CCD Bus Message From PCM

After diagnostic code display ends, instrument cluster will go into each of the following tests in order:
Dim test.
Calibration test.
Odometer segment test.
Electronic Transmission Range indicator segment test.
Dim Test
CHEC-0 will be displayed in odometer window. Instrument cluster will dim Vacuum Florescent (VF) display. If VF displays do not dim, a problem in instrument cluster exists. See BODY CONTROL COMPUTER TESTS in BODY CONTROL COMPUTER article.
Calibration Test
CHEC-1 will be displayed in odometer window. Each of instrument cluster gauges will move sequentially through each calibration point. See GAUGE CALIBRATIONS table. If gauge needle is not calibrated properly, a problem in instrument cluster exists.

Odometer Segment Test
CHEC-2 will be displayed in odometer window. Each segment of odometer will light sequentially. If any segment does not light, replace instrument cluster.
Electronic Transmission Range Indicator Segment Test
CHEC-3 will be displayed in odometer window. Each segment of electronic transmission range indicator will light sequentially. If any segment does not light, replace instrument cluster.

Speedometer, Odometer and Trip Odometer are driven by same circuit. Failure of Odometer and Trip Odometer suggests a circuit board fault on the instrument panel. A used instrument panel or repair of yours is probabaly best options.

The speedometer should malfunction too if speed sensor failed. If only the odometer and trip meter stopped working, it will most likely be the cluster itself. I had this problem, but since took the cluster out and give it a nice tap/knock, put it back in and it has worked since. Keep in mind that the VSS provides signal input to circuit that drives speedometer.

Instrument panel removal is not hard if you follow the shop manual instructions for trim removal. I've done it once on my 2.5TL to replace the D4 light bulb. PM your email address and I'll forward the pdf files for the procedure. The Vehicle Speed Sensor goes into the differential, and is what makes your speedometer and odometers work. If that fails, then your D4 light should start flashing, and either the speedometer will be bouncy or not work at all. Perhaps he forgot that 1Gs have a differential, so he said the tranny, but it's in the diff.

Hope helps.

IF YOUR SPEEDO IS WORKING THEN YOUR VSS IS OKAY, BAD VSS WILL STOP SPEEDO AND USALLY CAUSE HARD SHIFTING. NORMALLY ODO IS CONTROLLED BY SERVO MOTOR WHICH MAY HAVE WENT OUT. CHECK EBAY FOR REPAIR SERVICES OR SIMPLY GET A SALVAGE CLUSTER AND HAVE MILEAGE RESET

Sounds like you have a universal failure of your instrument panel circuits. The Speedo and odometers run off a cable that goes down into your tranny, not electrical.

Pull each fuse out one at a time, test each for continuity, clean the blades with an eraser and reseat, then go to the next one. Tighten all the ground cables you can find, starting from inside, then the firewall, engine block, battery, etc. This should fix it unless you have an open in the instrument circuit. A short will blow the fuse involved so that will be obvious. Just replace the blown fuse with the SAME VALUE- DO NOT USE A HIGHER AMP FUSE! If you have a blown fuse, hopefully you'll be lucky and it won't blow again.

I say check each fuse because sometimes instrument circuits are shared with others and not obvious which fuse is the one. And if one fuse is not making good contact, then others are likely to be on their way. If it is a short it will work momentarily until the fuse blows- thats why they're in there- to protect the circuit.

If you have a short you will have to track it. Take the blown fuse out and run your tests on your wires- most. Sometimes those little instrument lights get a bad connection- glazed contacts & sometimes they act as sub-fuses as well, so it can get complicated. This is my generic solution for most vehicles.
Good luck hope this helps.

electronic control module on the cluster is bad.