Question about 2008 Harley Davidson FLHTCU Ultra Classic Electra Glide

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Should oil be in a stator of the bike? Having pems and mechanic say oil is needed to keep it cool...others say oil not required in the stator

Posted by Peter Ruppel on


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  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 89 FXLR the plug that goes from the

Yes, you can ride the bike to the mechanics location. Make sure your battery is fully charged and I'd go ahead and completely disconnect the voltage regulator.

Posted on Oct 15, 2009



  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: Recently having problems with my 2000 Fatty not

First, take your battery somewhere and have it load tested. Fat Boys are tough on batteries as the battery sits in the "horseshoe" oil tank and is subjected to high temperatures due to the hot oil in the tank. Battery life is typically two years although I've seen some go longer and some not last that long. Have the battery tested before you start spending money.

To check the stator, you unplug the regulator at the engine case. Down inside the plug you'll see some electrical connectors. Connect a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to these connectors (one lead to eac pin) and put the meter in the 50 volt or higher range AC voltage. This is important that your meter be set to measure AC voltage because at this point, the voltage is indeed an Alternating Current voltage coming out of your alternator. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. You should be reading over 20 volts AC. The book says that you should read 12-18 volts per 1000 engine RPM. If your engine is turning 2000 rpm, your meter should read 24-36 volts AC.

To test the regulator, first charge your battery to a full charge. Then connect your DVOM across the battery, red to positive, black to negative. Put the meter in the 20 volt DC range. Start the bike and bring it to a high idle. The voltage will start at somewhere around 12.5 volts and climb to about 14.5-15 volts. This would indicate that the regulator MAY be alright.

Now, have you changed any of the lights on your Fat Boy? I've seen people change and add lights to the point where their alternator could no longer put out the current necessary to handle the load. If this is the case, you may need a higher out charging system.

I don't know where you're located but $260 seems quite high for a voltage regulator.

Posted on Dec 30, 2009


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I have a 89 FXLR the plug that goes from the stator to the regulator has snap with one connector in the boot and the other in the stator wiring. Can I ride the bike 10 Miles to the mechanic without...

Yes, you can ride the bike to the mechanics location. Make sure your battery is fully charged and I'd go ahead and completely disconnect the voltage regulator.

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Took cover off there was oil inside is this normal for a c90 to have oil in the stator cover

My clymer manual says yes. Oil is there.
The first thing I have to do is drain the oil and pull the oil filter.
I'm replacing my stator this weekend btw.
I'm not a mechanic, but I'm well inclined and have lots of knowledge and friends that know more than I do.
I hope to have a successful stator replacement on my '07 C90T by 09/26/09
My replacement stator is $173 from It's advertised to be improved and puts out 20% more juice. It will be in Wed. 09/23
I'll watch your page for updates. . .Joe

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I have a '07 C90T.
I have just replaced my stator. I replaced the reg/rectifier earlier this year. I replaced the battery one year ago in October.

I firmly believe what started the problem. Two guys that I told I didn't need help, but they pressured me to let them help. They hooked a battery backwards to my bike. A lot of people believe that's what shortened the life of the rectifier and stator.

But keep this in mind. The connections for the regulator/rectifier are not waterproof. I had done a lot of rainy riding and I first found a burnt connector on the discharge side of the reg/rect. My mechanic told me I needed to replace the reg/rect so I did but I soldered the wires and made them waterproof. I didn't do this on the stator side of the reg/rect and a few months later, when the bike quit charging again, I found that connector burnt, so I cut it out and soldered and waterproofed it.

Two days after we got back from a 700 mile round trip to Red River, NM, my bike quit charging again. This time though, I have a voltage meter on the bike, so I was aware of the problem before the bike could strand me someplace. Get one of those btw.
When I checked the old stator after I replaced it, I found the stator good but the pulse signal generator bad. It's required that you replace both btw. You have to, they are joined at the grommet.

Ok well, the battery cost $60 last year and I replaced it myself.
The reg/rect cost $140 through my mechanic and I replaced it myself.
Got the stator online for $173 shipped and they advertise a better stator that puts out 20% more power.
Not counting little things like solder, tape, heatshrink and such, I'm out a little less than $375 on my charging system.
I hope it's a done deal.
Again, some think the problems began when the battery was hooked up wrong, but I lean to believe the sub-standard Suzuki connections may have a hand in this.
Hope this helps. . . Joe

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Check to see if your battery is any good. A battery that is no good, will not keep a charge.
That would be the next step, and most likley your problem if the battery froze, or the bike sat for a long time.

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which seems to have solved the problem I had with the bike jumping out of 5th gear. Now on the not-so-good side. I now seem to have very high pressure in the crankcase enough to spray oil out of the channel that links the generator (rotor) area with the gearbox and coats the rotor and stator with oil. Its as if the oil isn't being picked up properly or maybe if the oil runs through one of the gearbox shafts - do I have to align the oil feed hole in this with something? This was the one thing that I wasn't certain about when I rebuilt the gearbox.... would this cause the problem? I can't find any crankcase breathers that could be blocked so I assume the bottom end vents up the channel for the timing chain, and then out the top camshaft cover and the thick black pipe on the top (which is clear). ,Either you have excess blowby or a passage somewhere is blocked. Leak down test first, then its back to removing covers until you find whats blocked,,,

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