Yamaha royal star motorcycle cluch whine and shudder in 4th and 5th gear at any speed

Jim London

• 257 Answers
• Posted on Feb 09, 2009

SOURCE: Removal of factory seat on Yamaha Royal star 1300

Hi, It opens with your key on the right side as looking from the front of the bike. Keep the key turned and pull straight up on the back of the seat. There is a tab on the front right behind the tank, so when you are putting it back make sure that tab goes into the slot first. Wow, when you get the seat off you will also find your emergency tool bag! I have royal star tour classic #41. Good Luck!

SOURCE: Motorcycle transmission Problem

4-5 shift fork guide pin not sitting in shift drum or broken tou may want to take this problem to a qualified tech

SOURCE: how do i on a motorcycle go to first gear from 5th

hi, if when you start your bike you press the gear lever down to go to 1st from neutral and then pull it back up to go to 2nd,3rd,4th and 5th then the only way to get back into first gear is to press the gear lever down 4 times to get it back into 1st gear their is no quicker way to do this you have to work your way back down the gears.

if your coming to a stop quick then just pull the clutch in and keep pushing the lever down until it dont push down any further it will only go down 1 gear at a time so you will need to push it down 4 times but you dont need to count you can just keep pressing it down the gears until it dont go down any more then you know this is first, you need to keep the clutch in when doing this.

how ever if your slowing down is more gradual then what you can do is go from 5th down to 4th then let engine slow the bike down then when the revs drop down change down to 3rd and so on until you get ot 1st gear.

if your coming to a stop quick say at lights or junction then if the bike is in 5th gear then you can change down the gears once the bike has stopped just hold the clutch in when you stop and keep tapping the gear lever down until you feel that its not going down any more gears this way you know its in 1st without having to cound down the gears, their id no quicker way of going down the gears to get to 1st.

i hope i have read your question right and gave you the answer you was looking for if i got the question wrong then please explain then i can assist you further ok

SOURCE: how do I adjust the headlight on a yamaha royal

It it's a Venture, there's a knob on the left side, in front of the fork pivot, turn clockwise to lower the beam, counterclockwise to raise it.

If it's just a Royal Star, the adjustments may be made through holes on both sides, cut low in the headlight rim.

SOURCE: how to change front and back brakes on a 2001

Make sure you have an adequate supply of DOT 4 brake fluid. A quart should be enough, but much less is gonna leave you without brakes somewhere until you can get more. You CAN NOT refill with DOT 5 fluid; flushing the lines with alcohol, drying and purging is required before that change - and the benefits are negligible.

Remove the saddlebag on the right side of the bike. Sound simple? NOT! There are two different length screws (three shorter, one long), a spacer, a variety of stand-offs, and a variety of rubber isolators and washers. Remove the parts (two mounts in the floor, two in the back toward the frame) but KEEP TRACK of where they come from, and in what order you remove them.

The rear caliper is now exposed - the real fun begins. Two bolts hold the caliper to the caliper arm - remove them and lay the caliper on the arm. Remove the black plastic dust cover on the top of the caliper (it's frequently missing, the ears that snap into slots in the caliper get brittle, and it breaks off and disappears), but DON'T try to remove the spring beneath. Lay the caliper on its side, pads toward you. Collapse the pistons (if you don't know how to do that, shame on you. Get a stack of pennies and a large screwdriver, stack pennies IN THE CENTER of one pad until there is very little clearance between the two pads with the screwdriver inserted between the pennies and the bare pad. Twist screwdriver HARD, relax. Keep adding pennies and twisting until neither pad will move any more).

It's time now for final disassembly. Flip the caliper over; you'll see two pins secured by spring clips. Those pins also secure the spring; note the orientation of the spring through the pins, take pictures or draw the assembly; whatever you do, make sure the springs and pins are reinstalled in EXACTLY the same orientation. Remove spring clips, remove pins and springs, and the pads can be removed one at a time by sliding to the center of the caliper. Insert new pads, reinstall pins, spring and spring clips, remount caliper, reinstall dust cap and bleed brakes. Wrestle the saddle bag back into place. You can now reassure yourself (and any observers/kibitzers) that the worst caliper of the three is out of the way.

Proceed to the front, and pick a caliper. You'll see two (usually black) bolts holding the caliper to the front fork, remove them and swing the caliper free of the disk. The caliper itself closely resembles the one in the back with two notable exceptions - in addition to the spring on top of the pads, there are two retainers on the front and rear of the pads (they keep debris from getting between the pads and disk, and keep the pads from moving back and forth in the caliper housing), and on the back of the outside pad is a shim (don't ask me why, but it's usually there). Disassembly and reassembly are similar to the rear caliper BUT; remember to transfer the outside shim to the new pad, and, once the pistons are collapsed, remove the retainers from the front and rear of the old pads, then reinstall in the new pads prior to installing the pins and spring above the pads. After you've finished both calipers, bleed one caliper at a time.

Check the firmness of the brakes once more just for safetys' sake, and it's Miller time!