Question about 2003 Suzuki VL 1500 Intruder LC
Where is the oil fill port on the Suzuki intruder lc 1500 2003 model? @
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Posted on Sep 22, 2018
One the left-hand side of the bike (facing forward), there is cover plate just ahead of the drive shaft. Remove that cover (mine has 8mm bolts). The bleeder valve is under this cover. Go to an auto parts store and get a "one man bleeder kit" or if you have some plastic tubing that will fit over the valve, you can use that and a clean jar. Follow the instructions on the bleeder kit, or if you're using the jar and tubing, fill the jar about a quarter of the way with break fluid (use DOT4, but never DOT5!). Take the cover off the master cylinder up at the handlebars, place the tube over the end of the bleed valve (after loosening it a turn or two. Place the other end of the tube down in the break fluid in the jar. Work the clutch lever until you stop getting bubbles in the jar. Be sure to keep the fluid level up in the reservoir. Tighten the bleeder valve, remove the tubing, top off the fluid and replace the covers.
Be careful not to get brake fluid on anything. It will eat paint and mess up other things.
Posted on Feb 13, 2009
Likely the clutch master cylinder on the handlebar needs rebuilding--a check valve or piston cup is bypassing fluid when pressure tries to build up. If it was the slave cylinder, it would probably be leaking fluid. Same with the coupling hose.
Posted on Sep 14, 2009
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If they cant duplicate it your good.Usualy with backfiring i would make sure to eliminate any exhaust leaks. The dealer is inexperienced at solving compound problems,(sorry) not picking a fight, but sometimes cleaning is not goog enough,I went through this with a 1400 Intruder.several attempts were needed to get the two carbs level on the same line with each other.so the floats would work properly together,then set fuel flow and the air flow through the ventouri in the carbs.Also i had to make these adjustments while level (not on side stand) The floats were very sencitve to needle valve to seat adjustment(bent to open or close some of the flow)
Posted on Apr 12, 2010
Hello Dale, this is an easy job on your bike. Use a flat head screw driver and remove the brake pad cover...it will pop off.
Remove the hairpin type clips off of the ends of the brake pad pins.... Use pliers & pull the brake pad pins out from the front of the rear brake caliper....Clean the rear brake caliper's piston with brake cleaner. Use a rag and wipe it clean...Reinsert the old brake pads into the caliper. Place a pry bar between the brake pads, then push the inner piston into the caliper body, this will allow room to install new pads.... Remove the old brake pads...Coat the brake pad pins and the new brake pads metal back plates with high-temperature grease.
Slip the new brake pads into the rear brake caliper, then push the brake pad pins halfway into the caliper. Slip the spring clips into place between the brake pads and the brake pad pins. Push the brake pad pins completely through the rear brake caliper. Push the hairpin clips back into the brake pad pin tips. Snap the brake pad cover onto the top of the rear brake caliper....
Pump the rear brake pedal until the pedal feels firm, indicating that the brake pads have closed around the brake rotor...No bleeding will be needed because the system was never opened - That's all there is to it...i hope this information is helpful & good luck with your bike.
Posted on Nov 23, 2011
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