Engine cranks but wont start,changed igniter fuse that was burnt,what should i check next

check all the fuses, connections, wires than id go directly to checking for a spark, fuel and than compression.

This is something that you cannot afford to throw any more money at. Get a timing light to check to see if there is spark. Use a pressure guage to check fuel pump. Get bug lights to test injectors.

start with ignition switch to starter components for power --look for short burnt connections and or components [ relays-solenoids etc ] if good may need to have computer checked

Any gas in the tank...?
Yes. Then
First check fuses. (Injector fuse, fuel pump fuse, head or main engine relay) It's not bad idea to check all fuses.

If all fuses're good (Not blow/burn)
-Next check spark and fuel.

Mai lor

Pull off the coil ignition cable at the distributor and check for spark coming out of coil when cranking engine over. Use a heavy rag or glove to hold the wire 1/4 inch from a metal ground. Should see a strong blue spark when cranking to verify ignition is good. If no spark, check for battery voltage to coil on the coil primary. If you have current to the coil, suspect a bad coil, ignition module, crank position sensor, or cam position sensor, or pcm. The coil, ignition module, and sensors can be tested before replacing.

If it were the immobilizer, you would have a security light that would be flashing or staying on all the time the key is in on. Since the engine cranks over and the pump is working when you turn the key to on and start, the green light may just mean the bulb is burnt out or a connection problem with that wire for the light. Not much of a problem there.
You said no fuel or fire when trying to start-so that is where to concentrate: you first need to verify that the ignition still is working, so check for spark on a plug wire with the engine cranking over. This could be a main fuse or main relay not passing power on to the ignition system and/or the injector circuit. First check for spark, and if you have spark, check the injector circuit (there is a fuse for the injectors-probably under the hood in a fuse/relay block). If you have no spark, you will have to diagnose the ignition system- coils, ignition control module (the ignitor), the crank angle or crank position sensor, finally the engine computer.

Check your ignition fuse # 30, in the inside fuse box all the way on the right second from the bottom, check your coil and crank position sensor, these are responsible for spark, the crank sensor is bolted with 2 bolts next to the lower engine pulley, this is a magnetic pick up that triggers spark from the coil, if the crank sensor is good and you have no spark then the coil could be bad. Hope this helps, let me know.

Check fuses there is a crank fuse I believe it is under the hood if it is bad engine will crank but wont start

You most likely have a burnt terminal in your Inside fuse block.Easiest way to check this is to remove the console trim panel next to the drivers side front of console,just pulls loose.Then while trying to start the engine reach down & wiggle the wring going into the front 68way connector.If it takes off & starts to crank you have a burnt terminal in the fuse block.If you remove the front connector (68 Way) there are 2 of these 68 ways in that block.You can look inside at the male terminals you will see one terminal with plastic melted around it.If you see this,that''s your problem!! You will need to find a used Fuse block at junkyard with same Part #.Very important to get same part!! Hope This helps

Engine Cranks But Will Not Start

For an engine to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine. Compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.
Basic Checks:

A. Test Fuses. Test both under hood power distribution center and the fuse panel under dash. This is done with a test light tool. The test light should illuminate on both sides of the fuse, if not the fuse has failed and needs to be replaced.
B. Testing Fuel Pressure Test for proper fuel pressure with a test gauge on the fuel rail, most throttle body injection cars (TBI) are between 13 psi and 17 psi. and most (DPI) direct port inject systems are between 40 psi and 55 psi. If no or little fuel pressure is observed and there is 12 volt power present the fuel pump, the fuel pump needs replacing.
C. Checking Timing Belt Test for compression by removing a spark plug and insert a compression gauge. Crank the engine over about 5 seconds the gauge should read between 125 psi and 165 psi, if no compression is observed remove front engine cover to inspect timing belt or chain. Crank engine to observe cam rotation, if the cam does not rotate the timing belt or chain has failed. (note: if the timing belt drives the water pump it is best to replace the water pump at this time)
D. Test for Injector Pulse Remove injector connector to insert injector test light (node) or volt meter. Observe light flash or gauge pulse while cranking. If light/voltmeter doesn't respond, an ignition distributor/crank angle sensor (CKS) or an ignition module is most likely your problem.
E. Test for Ignition Spark Remove spark plug wire, insert an extra spark plug into end of wire, rest spark plug next to a ground source then crank engine. You should observe a blue spark between the spark plug gap and ground source. If no spark is observed, an ignition coil, ignition rotor or spark plug wires might have failed. (always keep hands away from engine when cranking)