Gravity bleed front brake. no lever pumping. Looden cap on master cylinder, front wheen straight ahead, open bleeder and watch for air being expelled. When only fluid is coming out, close bleeder. Expect the front pads totake a few miles to seat, They will improve as they wear in. Good Luck / be safe.
The best way to bleed any motorcycle break, is to install a hose that fits tightly on the bleeder bolt thats long enough tosubmerse in the fluild of the master cyclinder. pump the brake with the bleeder open untill the fluild pumps without any bubbles, ( you may have to add fluild as this happens). Why not change the fluild while your at it. if it has two calipers do one at a time and go back tot he first one. The break fluild should be changed once a year anyway. If you need to bleed it it may have a leak or the break pads are worn all the way down. The hoses all will expand some but as they get older they do it more. If the break seems to come on rigtht away but is still not frim after bleeding you may have to change the hoses. while [um[ing the break look at the caliper ( is it moveing?, bending to the side? rotor flexing ) the mountings of thest parts sometimes ( per design ) have sliders that can get stuck or melted. These parts may need to betaken apart and freed up and if ridin for awhile with a problem like this the brake pads may be wore on an angle and need to be replaced. Brake rotors can get out of shape too and push the brake pads away from the rotor making a delayed pumpup before the break comes on. This effect might not happen if the brake is worked without moving the bike. All of this is true for cars or anything that has a brake on it.
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