Question about Motorcycles
Check engine light comes on rpm goes up then:-)everythingwill go back like it never came on
Posted by Anonymous on
See what error codes are stored:
Remove the protective plug from the data link connector.
Connect your jumper wire to the first and second terminal on the data link connector.
Turn the ignition switch on and wait for 10 seconds. The light will turn on for 4 seconds, then off for 6 seconds. After this 6 second interval, any stored trouble codes will appear as sequential flashes.
Count the number of times the lamp flashes; this is the first code. The code will repeat three times before playing the next code, if any, after a 3 second pause.
Record the codes and repost them..
Turn off the ignition switch and remove the jumper wire.
Posted on Aug 13, 2014
Down and dirty way - take it to the dealer and have them install a new tire....
The hard way: place bike on bike jack and remove rear wheel by removing the axle nut and drifting the axle out of the wheel. Derail the belt/chain and drop the wheel out of the brake caliper. Remove valve stem to deflate the tire. Get a set of tire spoons and a 12 pack of COLD brew cause working with tire spoons is no FUN! Pry the bead loose with one spoon and the work your way around the wheel prying the tire beed to the outside of the wheel. Repeat this process for the back side of the tire (in the same direction as the first side so the tire will come off the wheel. Reverse and repeat to install new tire.
By now you will be loading your wheel into the truck and heading to the HD shop. It just really isn't worth the hastle to save the $25 or so to have this job done.
Align wheel with new tire on it with the brake caliper so that you have one shoe on each side of the rotor (you may have to actually remove the caliper if your pads are thick. Install your belt drive/chain drive and then lift the wheel to insert the axle through the swing arm, the chain tensioner and wheel. Reverse
on the other side. Place axle nut on axle and torque to about 80lbs.
Good to go.
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
To change the switch, first unplug the wires at the switch. Screw the old switch out and install the new switch into the tee connector. Do not depress either brake lever while the switch is out. Tighten the switch and reconnect the wires.
Usually you don't have to bleed any air out of the brake system but check the rear brakes for proper operaion. If the rear brake pedal goes too far down, bleed the brakes at the rear caliper. Make sure you don't run the rear brake master cylinder dry while bleeding the rear brake. Use only the approved type of brake fluid, do not mix the different types of fluid. Make sure the rear brakes are working properly before riding the bike.
Posted on Oct 05, 2009
The fork oil is a very specific job needing a manual and a special tool, I don't want to insult anyones mechanical knowledge but if you have never done it before, best to take somewhere else. Engine oil on the other hand is easy, the drain tube to any softail is on the right side by where the frame meets the swing arm, has somekind of plug in it. Start and run bike for a little while, long enough to get it warm but not hot. Remove fill plug and then remove plug in drain line. Using a peice of cardboard or something put in between filter and frame , directing the oil to your drain pan instead of where ever it goes. Put 1 qt oil back in (after everything is reinstalled) start the bike and make sure the oil light goes out, when it does shut bike off and fill to the point that when it is standing upright you get a little oil on the tip of your finger, over filling may result in loss of oil cap from pressure (been there)
Posted on Feb 16, 2010
It's a lot of work.
First, disconnect and remove the battery. Don't want to lose a finger.
Drain the primary and remove the outer primary cover.
Remove the small bolt that holds the jackshaft onto the starter and remove it if you can. If it won't come out, you'll have to take the nut off the clutch assembly and slide it out just far enough to get the jackshaft out. To get to the nut, remove the clutch rod adjuster in the center of the clutch assembly by removing the snap ring. Loosen the nut, left handed threads. When retorquing 60-80 foot pounds, left handed. There is a coupling that connects the jackshaft to the starter, mark which way it comes out. Tapered end towards starter.
Remove the exhaust system if needed.
Remove all bolts holding the oil tank and lift it up as high as possible.
Disconnect the large battery cable and the small wire at the top of the starter.
Remove the two large bolts that hold the starter onto the inner primary cover.
Work starter out.
Posted on Apr 01, 2010
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