Bike chain How do you change bike change

Tight chains cause all manner of problems, not heard of this one before but I would suggest the best option is to find out how many links are in the chain originally fitted by the manufacturer. Chains are quite cheap I would get the right size and length and fit it and see.

Good luck.

If the bike was working normal and do not have more then 50-60 Tmiles, then the chains are o.k., this bikes have a automatic chain tensioner, so, you can start to think about change a chains when you are over 50000 miles. Usually, when chains are on limit, you can hear a rattling sound on the top of cylinders.

Backfires usually comes from bad carb sync and if you put custom pipes also to small jets. But first try to sync the carbs.

Here is link to youtube it is for vt600, it is the same for vt1100:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kAnw1FMZhNw

Here's a video Martin Frereault suggested as a solution to your problem from YouTube:


How To Adjust Your Motorcycle Chain

I don,t think the chain could cause this , try lubing the chain with oil and taking it for a ride see if that makes a difference , when was your fuel filter last changed or your air filter cleaned or changed.

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-installation-derailleur-bikes

Or it could be the dreaded mismatch of new chain with worn drivetrain parts...

http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

Your bike must not be the Cruiser pictured - that's a one-speed bike. So here's a general description--- For gear changes on multi-speed bikes, where the chain has to move between different size sprockets, the chain must be moving in order to shift. So, yes, you have to be pedaling, but it works best if you pedal very lightly - so that the chain is moving, but is under very light pressure. On the other hand, if you have a 3-speed bike where the gear changes take place inside the hub of the rear wheel, the wheel should be moving, but the chain should not - so you should be coasting to change gears.

No! Generally, the timing chain or camchain that controls the valves is tensioned automatically. To change the position of the timing is not possible without a tear down of the top end of the motor, but moving chain just one tooth would result in severe damage to your valves. piston, rockers and cams etc. Minute valve timing is achieved by camshaft node shape. Camchain tensioners are so designed as to take up the slack on the trailing side of the chain. when chain begins to stretch and wear past this tensioners limit, your chain MUST be replaced before inevitable engine death or worse!! Electrical timing on post breaker points bikes (mid 1970's) is controlled by the placement of stator backing plate in relation to the pulse pick up coil. Some engines do not have any room for change here, others have about 6 degrees rotation. This can only be done with a stationary motor and is a matter of trial and error. Generall a mark is etched at TDC as is the magneto rotor. Your bikes make, model and fear would be needed for further assistance. Cheers.

I don't have any experiance with your particular bike but have changed them on many different bikes to date. You should first purchase a new chain and sprokets and compare them to the existing one prior to removal as you won't be able to refit the old one safely. You are checking for the correct amount of teeth on the sprockets and the amount of links in the chain.

Once satisfied that you have the corrrect parts. Remove the front sprocket cover and locate the front sprocket. Most large bikes will have a large nut holding it on. Smaller bikes will use a tab washer and or circlip. If you have a large nut i find the easiest way to loosen it is to put a lock or similar through the rear wheel to immobilise it and then with a breaker bar loosen the nut. Once free change the sprocket over, then move to the rear sprocket loosing each nut in turn but making sure you are appling pressure to the nut squarely as it is easy to cross-thread these smaller nuts. This is best achevied by leaving the wheel on the bike until all the nuts are free. Remove the wheel and change the rear sprocket. Once done you are now ready to remove the chain from the swing arm. You can either cut it off with an angle grinder or you a chain link tool as i do.

Now the chain is split. Connect the new chain to one end and feed it through. Detach the new from the old and then rivet both ends together using a chain tool as described in the tools specific instructions.

Regards

Chris

You can buy chain lube at the bike shop...it tell you how on the can. As for changing the oil....good idea, BUT....have someone professionally do that. Cheap insurance, 'cause, if you foul-up Big$$$$$$$!

new bike owner here. i just got aatk 700 and love it. she needs some loving though. i've gotten the chain tightened due to the chain clicking or popping at low rpms but now i've noticed a new problem. the chain seems to be clicking in a pattern bout every second or sooner. the guys at the local bike shop said i had a bad sprocket when i went to have the chain tightened the first time. does this sound right? i have heard that the local bike shop has dicked around a few people and they seem a little pricey at 350 for the repair. anyone have a similar problem or can you confirm that this chain 'popping' or 'clicking' noise is in fact due to a worn out chain sprocket, or do i just need a new chain. i know that the chain is about ready to be replaced i have 22,000 on the bike. ,It sounds like one or both of the sprockets could be worn. If you change out a sprocket you might as well change out both. Price out the parts at bikebandit.com and do it yourself.,,,