Question about 2003 Suzuki GZ 125 Marauder
I have a Suzuki Marauder 57 plate and I get a whirring sound the Suzuki doesn't have any power problems it just makes a whirring sound from 3rd gear onwards and stops when the clutch is pulled in I have replaced the plates and disk in the clutch not made a difference tho not changed the springs @
Hi, Gery I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
4. Cam Chains---CLICKIT
7. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE
9. Fronk Forks---Plunk
10. Fuel pumps---WHIRR
12. Head Gasket---HISS
13. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
14. Instrument Clusters---BUZZING
15. Kick Starter---GRINDS
17. Power Valves---CLINK& RATTLE
19. Rear Chains---RATTLE
20. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
22. Shaft Drives---WHIRR
23. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
24. Solid Lifters---TICK
27. Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Posted on Feb 18, 2019
hello did you do the center nut up to much as i did and i had the same prob as well it the one in the center of the clutch plate thanks karl
Posted on Sep 18, 2009
The clutch springs are not the problem. Check to see if all parts were installed as shown below. The clutch plates alternate Fiber/steel/fiber/steel, starting and ending with a fiber. Be sure the teeth on the clutch rack are pointing to the rear.
A “very helpful” rating for this answer? Thanks!
Posted on Jun 27, 2009
I have the same bike doing the same thing, I think this problem is caused by running regular or synthetic motor oils intended for cars rather than using motorcycle specific 10- 40wt. Motorcycle specific oils have friction properties that support long life of the friction plates in your clutch, regular motor oils can cause your friction plates to heat up and glaze over. I think That's what gives you that grabby all or nothing feel when taking off from a stop.
Posted on Mar 24, 2010
Did you set up the clutch mechanism/pushrod correctly? Where the clutch cable goes into the engine you need to remove the cover to access it. First off, set some freeplay into the cable by either/and adjusting the lower end of the cable or at the lever.
Once done, under the cover you will see a lock nut on the end of a shaft with a slot in it for your screwdriver. Slacken the lock nut. Turn the shaft in (clock wise) until you just feel resistance. Now back it out half a turn. Secure the lock nut ensuring the centre shaft does not turn. Now set the freeplay in the cable to give a few mm's play at the lever (you may be able to acheive this with just the knurled adjuster at the lever end, if not use the inline adjuster at the point where the cable goes into the engine cover). Make sure this is right before the hassle of checking the plates.
Posted on Feb 12, 2011
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