How to replace drive belt on 1993 harley davidson?

SOURCE: 1993 harley davidson softail manual

If I am to understand you correctly, you're asking whether it would be more beneficial to get a workshop manual, which would generally cover a wider range of models and years, or the manual for a particular bike, and my advice is to get the factory service manual for your particular year and model. Or if you're just wondering where to get a manual, they're available from a local H.D. dealer or by mail from an out of town dealer if you don't happen to have a local shop.

SOURCE: 1993 Harley Davidson motorcycle (FLSTC). If I

DeJevu! I thought I answered this already. Anyway, I'll do it again. The first thing I'd try is putting new bulbs in the turn signal lights. Use the proper bulb called for in the books. This is a pretty inexpensive test.

Next, you didn't say whether or not it was both sides or just one side that was not blinking. The turn signals are controlled by the turn signal cancelling unit. I'd try to find someone that had a known good unit that would allow me to try the unit to see if that fixed the problem. I say this because the units are expensive. The last one I replaced costs about $150.

Oh yeah, on the Softail, I think the "tilt switch" located in the speedometer is involved in cancelling the turn signals as well. If the switch is stuck in the closed position, it may be cancelling the turn signal as soon as you set it. The switch is not in the circuit for the four way flashers. You'd have to look at a schematic to tell for certain. Sorry, I don't have one for a Softail.

SOURCE: engine oil leak out the left side of 1993 harley

Ok, this is a lot better. I used to tell people that I couldn't fix a motorcycle over the phone and here I am trying to do it on a computer. My how times have changed.

Now, the seal that you're talking about is the engine sprocket shaft seal. I may not have been in backwards since I don't know what way it was in the case. If you look at a seal, the lip is pointed in one direction. The seal should be installed with the lip pointed AGAINST the oil flow, in this case towards the inside of the engine.

Another thing that most people make a mistake one when installing a new seal is that they put it up dry. By dry, I mean that they do not lubricate the lip of the seal, not the outside diameter. The reason, when the engine starts up, it goes to 1000-1500 RPM almost instantly. The result is friction burns the lip of the new seal up before oil has a chance to get to it.

Next, the spacer that goes onto the sprocket shaft should have had a larger diameter on one end of it. This larger diameter goes on the backside of the seal against the bearing in the case. This helps keep the oil away from the seal. Also, it helps to put a bead of RTV around the sprocket shaft where it comes out of the spacer. This prevents oil that might run down between the shaft and the seal from leaking out.

This is the best that I can tell you without actually seeing your setup. Someone may have changed the spacer with one that came with the belt drive kit and it's allowing the oil to leak. If you would like an "exploded" view of how your bottom end is assembled, send me an e-mail at wd4ity @ bellsouth.net. I'll scan the picture in a service manual and send it to you.

Good Luck
Steve Bentley

SOURCE: how do I replace a drive belt on a 1999 harley

On a Big Twin, you must pull the entire primary drive off the engine.

Disconnect the battery. Take the outer primary cover off the engine. Remove the compensator (engine sprocket) nut. This nut is very tight and has Loctite thread locker on it. 150-165 foot pounds of torque. You'll need to something to lock the chain up so the engine does not turn while loosening or tightening this nut. We use what is called a "locking bar". Remove the small plate with the screw and locknut in the center of the clutch assembly. Remove the mainshaft nut up inside the clutch assembly. It torques to 60-80 foot pounds LEFT HANDED TREADS. Remove the nut from the primary chain tensioner. Grab the compensator sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift the primary drive out of the cover.

Take the small screw out of the center of the jackshaft and remove the starter jackshaft.

From the right side of the bike, remove whatever you have to remove to get to the starter, exhaust pipes or whatever. Disconnect the battery cable and the small wire from the starter. Remove the two bolts holding the starter on inner primary cover.

Go back to the left side of the bike. Remove the four bolts that holds the inner primary to the engine, and the two that hold the primary to the transmission. There's one bolt coming in from the backside that has a braided wire on it on the early models. There may be four bolts holding the inner primary onto the transmission. When you have all the bolts out, the primary will come off easily. If it does not seem to want to come off, you may still have a bolt somewhere. Do not beat on the primary cover with even a rubber hammer. It should come right off.

Now, you'll have to remove the rear wheel, rear shocks, belt guards, and remove the swing arm.

As you can see, it's a pretty involved job on a Big Twin.

Good luck
Steve

SOURCE: how to change drive belt

To change the final drive belt on your Fatboy, first disconnect the battery. You have to drain the primary and remove the cover. Take the engine sprocket nut loose and remove the plate in the center of the clutch assembly. Remove the mainshaft nut that holds the clutch assembly on. This nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS. Then, remove the starter jackshaft. Go the right side of the bike and remove the exhaust system so that you can remove the starter. Then take the inner primary cover off. You may have to remove the front belt drive pulley. Since you're in this far, you may as well remove the pulley if you have the proper tools and replace all the transmission seals behind it. Then, remove the rear wheel and the swingarm. Do not bend the new final drive belt into a radius any tighter than about four inches or you may damage the cords inside the belt. You will need a torque wrench that is capable of applying at least 150 foot pounds of torque to the engine sprocket nut and torqe 60-80 pounds in the LEFT HANDED DIRECTION for the clutch assembly. The front belt drive pulley torques to 150-165 foot pounds as is also LEFT HANDED THREADS and you'll need a "belt pulley locking device" to hold it while you take the large nut off and put it back on. If you plan on doing this job, I would advise the purchase of a service manual as sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words.

Good Luck
Steve