Question about Harley Davidson XL 1200 S Sportster Sport Motorcycles
Posted by Anonymous on
The voltmeter test provides general indicator of battery condition. Check the voltage of the battery to verify that it is in a 100 per cent fully charged condition. If the open circuit or disconnected voltage reading is below 12.6 V, charge the battery and then recheck the voltage after the battery has set for one to two hours. If the voltage reading is 12.8 V or above, perform the load test described below.
The load test measures battery performance under full current load and is the best indicator of battery condition. Load testing a battery tat is not FULLY CHARGED i.e. at 12.8 VDC can permanently damage it. Fully charge it first and then let it stand for at least an hour before the load test is done. You also need a load tester AND you should know how to perform a load test. Often the best way to load test a battery will be to take it to a battery shop and have it done there.
VOLTAGE and STATE OF CHARGE FOR AGM BATTERIES IS:
12.8 VDC is 100 per cent
12.6 VDC is 75 per cent
12.3 VDC is 50 per cent
12.0 VDC is 25 per cent
11.8 VDC is 0 per cent
COLD CRANKING AMPERAGE (CCA) for a DYNA battery is 270
Battery Charging Rates/Times (Approximate)
FOR A 19 AMP HOUR DYNA AGM BATTERY
BATTERY STATE OF CHARGE is 12.8 VDC is 100 per cent Charge; Rate of Charge is N/A
BATTERY STATE OF CHARGE is 12.6 VDC is 75 per cent Charge; Rate of Charge at 3 AMP is 1.75 hours at 6 AMP is 50 minutes at 10 AMP is 30 minutes at 20 AMP is 15 minutes
BATTERY STATE OF CHARGE is 12.3 VDC is 50 per cent Charge; Rate of Charge at 3 AMP is 3.5 hours at 6 AMP is 1.75 hours at 10 AMP is 1 hour at 20 AMP is 30 minutes
BATTERY STATE OF CHARGE is 12.0 VDC is 25 per cent Charge; Rate of Charge at 3 AMP is 5 hours at 6 AMP is 2.5 hours at 10 AMP is 1.5 hours at 20 AMP is 45 minutes
BATTERY STATE OF CHARGE is 11.8 VDC is 0 per cent Charge; Rate of Charge at 3 AMP is 6 hours, 40 minutes at 6 AMP is 3 hours, 20 minutes at 10 AMP is 2 hours at 20 AMP is 1 hour
The figures listed above assume that the battery is charging at room temperature. If warmer than room temperature, use a slightly shorter charging time. If colder, use a slightly longer charging time.
The use of constant current chargers to charge maintenance free batteries is not recommended. Any overcharge will cause dry out and premature battery failure. If a constant current charger is the only type available, do not exceed the charge times listed above and do not continue charging the battery if it gets hot. When charging, never exceed 15 volts for more than 30 minutes.
If the battery gets hotter than 110 degrees F or 43 degrees C during charging, discontinue charger and allow the battery to cool. Overheating may result in plate distortion, internal shorting, dry out and/or other damage.
Posted on Oct 18, 2014
all you need to do is remove the battery side compartment - pull from the top, and there is a hinge on the bottom. Then unscrew the negative connector -first. Then the positive. Remove the screws for the holder and its done. The new battery will have a moderate charge. You should buy a battery tender and use it to charge it. Also a battery tender will help keep the battery ready to go when you are.
Posted on Jul 16, 2009
Ok, let's start back over again. To properly adjust the clutch, you MUST do it in a particular method due to the design of the release mechanism.
First, you must "unadjust" the cable. Find the cable adjuster and "unadjust" it making the cable as short as possible, lots of freeplay in the cable.
Then, remove the clutch access cover and remove the spring and the "lockplate" that looks like a nut with a stem on it.
Turn the clutch adjusting screw counterclockwise to remove all the free play.
Now, back off on the screw 1/4 turn.
Then reinstall the "lockplate". if it doesn't want to go back in, you may have to rotate the adjusting screw clockwise just enough to get it back in. Put the spring back in and put the clutch access cover back on.
Readjust the cable so that you have a freeplay at the clutch lever of about a eighth (1/8") inch freeplay or about the thickness of a nickle.
Lock everything down and this should be correct.
I have found that sometimes you have to "tweak" the cable adjustment to get a clutch to engage exactly where a particular rider wants it to start engaging. This is a preference type thing and has to be done on a "trial and error" basis with the cable adjustment. But, you must use this method to adjust the clutch down at the engine end of the cable. Good Luck!
Posted on Dec 20, 2009
"Backfiring" is a pretty broad term depending on where you live. Some people refer to backfiring as popping from the exhaust while others refer to it as the engine spitting through the carburetor.
I'll assume that you're talking about popping out the exhaust pipe. If it does this after you rev the engine and it backfires on the way back down to idle, this is typical of an exhaust system sucking air. The mixture is extremely rich under these circumstances and will not ignite. But, if your exhaust system is sucking air, it combines with the fuel air mixture already there and bring it to an explosive mixture thus the backfire.
You can check you valves but I've always found that if the valves on an Ironhead are too tight, it's extremely difficult to get it started due to the low compression on that cylinder.
Check you ignition timing and points setting. Also, what kind of condition is your mechanical advance in the distributor in? I'm assuming this is an XLH model and not the magneto equipped XLCH.
What type of carburetor is on the engine? Hopefully not the original Tillotson that it came with. If it's an S&S, the low jet should be a 28 and the main jet a 66 to 70.
Posted on Jun 11, 2010
Ok, If you are absolutely sure the battery is good, there are several possibilites. If the battery is over a year old, take it to an automotive parts store and ask them if they can load test it. They'll usually do this at no charge.
If the battery is good, the first problem could be in the starter relay. Look at the end of the starter from the right side of the bike. You'll see a plate on the end that is roughly shaped like a pentagon. Just above that plate is a plug with a single wire. Unplug this wire and use either a test light or a digital volt ohm meter to check for voltage when you press the starter button. If you do NOT have voltage and the clicking you are hearing is coming from under the seat, you probably need a starter relay.
If you have 12 volts on that wire, you're problem is in the starter. Disconnect the negative cable from your battery. Now, take the three small screws out of the back of the starter that holds the pentagon shaped plate on. Underneath the plate is a plunger and a spring. Remove these parts and look at the copper contacts on either side of the solenoid and on the plunger. If they are burned badly, you need to replace them. You can get the parts through an aftermarket supplier and they are not very difficult to replace. Usually, it can be done without removing the starter. Simply replace the contacts and a new plunger comes with the parts kit. Reassemble the starter, reconnect the battery cable, and you should be ready to go.
Posted on Jul 05, 2010
You can charge the battery without removing the battery. Find the large cable that comes from the battery where it connects to the starter. Connect you positive charger clamp there. Connect the negative charger clamp to any good frame ground on the bike. You can charge you battery using this method provided you battery charger clamps are not too big.
If you can't do this, you'll have to take the seat off the bike, remove the battery hold down strap, and then move the battery outwards so you can disconnect the negative battery cable.
Posted on Dec 10, 2010
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