Clutch adjustment might be too loose.
Try readjusting pressure plate adjuster screw, and clutch cable free play.
SOURCE: clutch
if you have not sorted out the T3 clutch problem by now I suggest you drop the swinging arm and take a look at the clutch operating arm and check that its got the right amount of free play also check the spring which sits halfway up the clutch arm and make sure its got some free movement also check the condition of the thrust bearing and the clutch operating arm adjuster screw, if you feel the need to remove the clutch operating arm from the gearbox end cover the arm is fixed to a lug and then held on by a pivot pin with a R clip or whatever, if this pivot pin wont move do not hit it with a hammer you will only break the lug and then have to get it welded back on ,soak it in penetrating oil and apply gentle heat, but again no hammer! it might be worth buying new thrust bearing , spring, etc before the start the job.I have had my T3 for 27 years and your problem appears new to me I can only think that unless your clutch friction plate is really warpped it can only be the adjustment at the clutch arm end. the spring etc could be working ok at rest but under pressure ? ,,,
SOURCE: I have 2000 xlh sportster 1200 the bike idles fine
It sounds electrical and as it's a Sporty, I suggest a temperature-related dry joint opening up in the wiring. One popular candidate would be the earthing strap. It's worth checking continuity with a VOM when engine is hot. It may have a vibration crack. 66C is quite cool for a sportster oil temperature, so I guess you have this problem on every long ride? Good Luck.
SOURCE: how do i get the proper clutch ajustment on a 1989
Ok, let's start back over again. To properly adjust the clutch, you MUST do it in a particular method due to the design of the release mechanism.
First, you must "unadjust" the cable. Find the cable adjuster and "unadjust" it making the cable as short as possible, lots of freeplay in the cable.
Then, remove the clutch access cover and remove the spring and the "lockplate" that looks like a nut with a stem on it.
Turn the clutch adjusting screw counterclockwise to remove all the free play.
Now, back off on the screw 1/4 turn.
Then reinstall the "lockplate". if it doesn't want to go back in, you may have to rotate the adjusting screw clockwise just enough to get it back in. Put the spring back in and put the clutch access cover back on.
Readjust the cable so that you have a freeplay at the clutch lever of about a eighth (1/8") inch freeplay or about the thickness of a nickle.
Lock everything down and this should be correct.
I have found that sometimes you have to "tweak" the cable adjustment to get a clutch to engage exactly where a particular rider wants it to start engaging. This is a preference type thing and has to be done on a "trial and error" basis with the cable adjustment. But, you must use this method to adjust the clutch down at the engine end of the cable. Good Luck!
SOURCE: rebuiling timing gears in a 2006 sportster 1200
The cams are numbered 1 through 4 starting at the rear going towards the front. The new oil pumps do not have to be timed like the '76 and earlier models did. Install #1 cam, install #3 and #4 cams and time them with each other then install the #2 timing it with the pinion gear, the #1 and the #3 cam.
Good Luck
Steve
SOURCE: 1990 xlh 1200. it starts hard, is backfiring alot.
Change what you said and check to see if both plugs are getting spark, maybe you have a bad coil. also get a carb rebuild kit. The backfiring is most likely caused by the ACV on the side of the carb. Here is what they look like.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-VIRAGO-XV750-XV1100-AIR-CUT-OFF-VALVE-KIT-NEW-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem35b39d6f27QQitemZ230646705959QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
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